How hard it is to remove the downpipe
- Thread starter ebang
- Start date
on an N/A , get a long extention , about a foot and a half long , That will make it alot easier on you ,for the exaust manifold part , the rest of the exaust is easy .
I did mine on a lift ... It wasnt too bad ...
I did mine on a lift ... It wasnt too bad ...
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ebang;1243454 said:
Just have some "rust buster" kind of spray lube available for seized bolts.
It's a fairly easy job.
the right amount of sockets and extensions. then some scraped knuckles and some 4 letter words. its no big if you got a simple set of tools.
right right, what SC said. pb blaster has been my friend. just wash your hands afterwards. you might get a little itchy from it I did.
right right, what SC said. pb blaster has been my friend. just wash your hands afterwards. you might get a little itchy from it I did.
Two bolts at the Cat, and 3 bolts under the Turbo Elbow. Each one is different. Some come off easy, some are a pain.
Mk3runner;1243466 said:
I find the 3 bolts up top on an N/A are a bit more difficult than the bottom of the elbow ... But still not a big problem ... Exaust on the turbo is cake though
If the pb blaster or liquid wrench alone doesn't work get yourself a propane torch. Soak the nuts and heat them up. Soak them, heat them, soak them try and turn them. Don't get impatient and get yourself into a big mess.
whowouldfigga;1243558 said:
Excellent advice. Even if you spend 25 minutes working with a torch and PB Blaster, it's better than 2 hours dealing with stripped stud..
I would also like to extend the note to use a deep well socket, 1/4" drive with a breaker bar and a long extension is best, due to working room or no bigger than 3/8 drive same setup, as you will notice that the the stud will stick out further than the nut, and will not allow a full socket to nut contact if used with a shallow well socket. 1/2" drive may not allow enough room to allow the socket to fit between the nut and the pipe either.. Spray the hell out of it with Pb-Blast or WD-40 and let it set with follow up every 10-20 minutes if you are not in a rush.
I was told the following by an 80 year old mechanic who's retired. It's NOT suggested for use on aluminum, but it worked like an absolute charm on my brother's pickup.
He has an f-350, and the exhaust manifold studs were so ridiculously frozen in the heads, nothing we did could get them out. Mind you, between my dad, my brother, and myself, we have a combined total of at least 55yrs dealing with crappy cars and rusted bolts/nuts.
This trick worked like an absolute charm, and is invaluable for a situation like this, but only as a last resort, because 90% of the time, you won't have much trouble.
Heat the nut/bolt up until it's red hot. Grab a candle, any candle will do. Once the bolt/nut is red hot, melt the candle into the threads. Keep melting it in until you feel it's sufficient.
Now wait for it to cool. Grab any wrench, and the bolt/nut will turn right off. We did this to 5 stripped studs on my brother's truck. It was incredible, and worked flawlessly every time.
According to the oldschool mechanic, the wax seeps into the threads when the nut/bolt is red hot. (you must melt quite a bit of the candle into it, otherwise it just burns up) When the assembly cools, the wax forms a slick barrier between the nut/bolt and the threads. It takes almost no effort to remove it from there on out.
I had my doubts, but it worked like charm!
Give it a try when you get the chance!
He has an f-350, and the exhaust manifold studs were so ridiculously frozen in the heads, nothing we did could get them out. Mind you, between my dad, my brother, and myself, we have a combined total of at least 55yrs dealing with crappy cars and rusted bolts/nuts.
This trick worked like an absolute charm, and is invaluable for a situation like this, but only as a last resort, because 90% of the time, you won't have much trouble.
Heat the nut/bolt up until it's red hot. Grab a candle, any candle will do. Once the bolt/nut is red hot, melt the candle into the threads. Keep melting it in until you feel it's sufficient.
Now wait for it to cool. Grab any wrench, and the bolt/nut will turn right off. We did this to 5 stripped studs on my brother's truck. It was incredible, and worked flawlessly every time.
According to the oldschool mechanic, the wax seeps into the threads when the nut/bolt is red hot. (you must melt quite a bit of the candle into it, otherwise it just burns up) When the assembly cools, the wax forms a slick barrier between the nut/bolt and the threads. It takes almost no effort to remove it from there on out.
I had my doubts, but it worked like charm!
Give it a try when you get the chance!MA702Tone;1243582 said:
Good info and use a 6pt socket not a 12pt.
shaeff;1243598 said:I was told the following by an 80 year old mechanic who's retired. It's NOT suggested for use on aluminum, but it worked like an absolute charm on my brother's pickup.
He has an f-350, and the exhaust manifold studs were so ridiculously frozen in the heads, nothing we did could get them out. Mind you, between my dad, my brother, and myself, we have a combined total of at least 55yrs dealing with crappy cars and rusted bolts/nuts.
This trick worked like an absolute charm, and is invaluable for a situation like this, but only as a last resort, because 90% of the time, you won't have much trouble.
Heat the nut/bolt up until it's red hot. Grab a candle, any candle will do. Once the bolt/nut is red hot, melt the candle into the threads. Keep melting it in until you feel it's sufficient.
Now wait for it to cool. Grab any wrench, and the bolt/nut will turn right off. We did this to 5 stripped studs on my brother's truck. It was incredible, and worked flawlessly every time.
According to the oldschool mechanic, the wax seeps into the threads when the nut/bolt is red hot. (you must melt quite a bit of the candle into it, otherwise it just burns up) When the assembly cools, the wax forms a slick barrier between the nut/bolt and the threads. It takes almost no effort to remove it from there on out.
I had my doubts, but it worked like charm!
Long before there was such a thing as pb blaster, liquid wrench, wd40.....Adapt, improvise and overcome.
Wow that is awesome with the candle wax!!! Who would have ever thought. Ohh and what " whowouldfigga " said if possible use a 6pt socket and not a 12pt socket. That is your emergency life line when a 6pt would not do task or is not available. To help save a headache latter if need be use some antiseize with new bolts or studs, so the hardware dose not snap during installation, or future uninstalations. Use new gaskets, and grade 8 bolts. They are only like 3-5 dollars at lowes or home depot. Rule of thumb do it right the first time and no turrets episodes on the second time.. Hope this helps