How does the coolant reservoir

[Supra_Villan]

I have looked in the tsrm and read this
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar....aspx?S=CO&P=3
in hopes to find my answer. I found nothing, but my question is if the entry/exit part of the coolant overflow resevior is even with or below the only available entry point on the radiator, how does the coolant make its way back into the radiator from the reservoir? Because it doesn't make its way back in via gravity then how does it? The only entry/exit point on the reservoir is the cap itself. If i need to reword just say so but that was the best i could.

 

[3.0 GT]

I have looked in the tsrm and read this
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar....aspx?S=CO&P=3
in hopes to find my answer. I found nothing, but my question is if the entry/exit part of the coolant overflow resevior is even with or below the only available entry point on the radiator, how does the coolant make its way back into the radiator from the reservoir? Because it doesn't make its way back in via gravity then how does it? The only entry/exit point on the reservoir is the cap itself. If i need to reword just say so but that was the best i could.

im pretty sure that when the coolant gets hot it expands and pressure builds and overflows into the tank. then when the engine is turned off and the coolant cools down it contracts and then the suction sucks it back up through the hose into the radiator.

 

[rayall01]

^^ That's exactly what happens. Expansion when hot, vacuum when cooling.

 

[paradox616]

yeah but the radiator cap also dictates when coolant is allowed to pass

 

[jdub]

FYI - if there is a pin hole in the rubber tube in the reservoir (above the coolant level) or a pin hole in the rubber tube going to the radiator, the radiator will suck air into the radiator instead of coolant.
Not a good thing

 

[Supra_Villan]

thanks everyone!

 

[jetjock]

It's pushed back in by ambient pressure because of the gradient that develops. No sucking goes on. It's against the laws of physics for low pressure to move matter. As in not possible...

 

[crisp]

FYI - if there is a pin hole in the rubber tube in the reservoir (above the coolant level) or a pin hole in the rubber tube going to the radiator, the radiator will suck air into the radiator instead of coolant.
Not a good thing

This principle applies to any "breach" of the coolant loop. If you have even a SMALL leak, you will draw AIR, and loose vacuum during cooling, hence failing to pull coolant back in from the reservoir.

A good check is to get the coolant system fully "burped" and topped off at cap when cool, then after several heat cycles on drives, let it cool, and open the radiator. (First thing next morning, or a FULL COOLING is best) If working correctly, the coolant will be RIGHT AT the radiator cap seal-point.


G/L!



-crisp

 

[jetjock]

No "drawing" or "pulling" goes on either

 

[rayall01]

It's pushed back in by ambient pressure because of the gradient that develops. No sucking goes on. It's against the laws of physics for low pressure to move matter. As in not possible...

That was just me being flip about the description. Just trying to confirm the general idea, so he had the basic understanding.

 

[Supra_Villan]

I had the basic understanding, as a matter of fact before i asked the question the low pressure vacuum idea had crossed my mind, but i was like there is no way that vacuum alone can suck coolant back in.

 

[MikesFixedRoof]

I just replaced a leaking turbo water hose (the rubber, fuel line sized piece of hose that goes from the back of the thermostat housing to the upper hard water line to the turbo) it had been pissing coolant all over for a couple days before I got a new one from Toyota and changed it, so it lost quite a bit of coolant. with the engine cold, i filled the rad to the top. squeezed the upper rad hose a few times, and the level dropped only a bit. i started it up with the cap off and let it run for a bit. the level slowly rose and started spilling over the top of the rad. Im sure i need to "burp" or bleed the system more, but im not sure of the best way to do so. I was told to crack loose the cold injector time switch on the t-stat housing while its running, and it will act as a bleeder screw. Yes? No?

 

[gaboonviper85]

I just replaced a leaking turbo water hose (the rubber, fuel line sized piece of hose that goes from the back of the thermostat housing to the upper hard water line to the turbo) it had been pissing coolant all over for a couple days before I got a new one from Toyota and changed it, so it lost quite a bit of coolant. with the engine cold, i filled the rad to the top. squeezed the upper rad hose a few times, and the level dropped only a bit. i started it up with the cap off and let it run for a bit. the level slowly rose and started spilling over the top of the rad. Im sure i need to "burp" or bleed the system more, but im not sure of the best way to do so. I was told to crack loose the cold injector time switch on the t-stat housing while its running, and it will act as a bleeder screw. Yes? No?

Jack the front of the car up about a foot and with the engine running fill the rad.....untill the car gets to operating temps...then make sure the overflow tank has coolant in it also....watch for bubbles in the rad....light revs of the throttle should get the air out....and make sure to turn the heat on when doing this.

 

[jdub]

Never had the "burp" the cooling system on this car. If it's in good working order, you shouldn't have too

 

[Poodles]

Yep, it will purge itself.

 

[grimreaper]

Never had the "burp" the cooling system on this car. If it's in good working order, you shouldn't have too

Yep, it will purge itself.

x 3

 

[MikesFixedRoof]

well i ended up cracking that sensor loose the next morning right after starting it up cold with the rad cap off. everthing looks pretty good.....hardly had to top it up at all. lol after a new $25 turbo water hose and a new $175 fan clutch from toyota x0
thanks for all the tips dudes.