hooked up safc, running realy rich

mk3tattoos

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so after i hooked up the safc I reset it. Then when i tried to start the car it was so rich it did'nt want to start, but after a couple of trys it started up ruff. Is this normal until i have all the setting in?
I also tried unhooking the safc to see if it would run normal but it did'nt.

I'm going to have it tuned on a dyno, but i need to get it there first.LOL.

so any and all help will be great!

mods. rc550. lex afm, innovate wideband, sx afpr, walbro 255, ct26 57 trim,
 

Supracentral

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Mar 30, 2005
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It's either wired incorrectly, or you have the wrong sensor types set.

For the MKIII on the S-AFC it's:

Sensor Type -> Karmann
Cyl -> 6
Throttle Type -> / (arrow pointing up and right)

The AFC (when everything is set at zero) should have no effect on the way the car runs.
 

mk3tattoos

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Supracentral;1239172 said:
It's either wired incorrectly, or you have the wrong sensor types set.

For the MKIII on the S-AFC it's:

Sensor Type -> Karmann
Cyl -> 6
Throttle Type -> / (arrow pointing up and right)

The AFC (when everything is set at zero) should have no effect on the way the car runs.

So its not reading the maf and running without it? i double checked all the wiring and it seems right.

About the wiring, there are two wires that have two options, the rpm and knock signal. Which ones are best to use?
 

grimreaper

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that rpm needs to be hooked up. Not sure how its an option?
check the settings like sc said. then the wiring. If you used those crimp on splicers for wire taps, ive seen them cut wires in half. might want to have a look...
 

Supracentral

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I understand what he means, there are two pairs of wires.

Ok, let's get a few points clear before I answer because I don't want to give you inaccurate info.

Your car is a 7M-GTE powered Supra, correct?

What year?

Your AFC, which one is it? S-AFC, S-AFC-II, S-AFC-NEO?
 

Supracentral

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grimreaper;1239304 said:
he has 7mgte and a safc 1. Dont know the year.

Ok, based upon that, here's the info. There's a difference in the harnesses on the Supra side between the years, but on the S-AFC side:

Red = ECU Power
Green = Tach Signal
Grey = TPS Signal
Brown = ECU Ground
Black = ECU Ground
Orange = From AFM
Pink = To ECU (AFM)

Note 1: The only wire you cut on the harness is the AFM signal wire. All other wires are tapped inline,

Note 2: It is especially important that the Brown & Black wires are tapped into the same ECU ground wire. It is also important that the brown wire be tapped in CLOSER to the ECU than the black wire. And be sure they are about 1/4 in apart on the harness...

Note 3: The yellow, white and blue wires are unused with the 7M.


Edit: Wait a minute - he said "knock signal" - that's not a S-AFC 1 feature. That started with the S-AFC II. Regardless - the only added wire on the S-AFC II is knock, and honestly the knock monitoring feature on the S-AFC-II is worthless.
 

mk3tattoos

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i did not have the sensor set up right, its all good now.

ya there are two rpm's and two knock sensor pins. i choose the rpm#2 and ks #1. not sure if it is wrong.

thanks for the help guys:love:

oh ya, 87turbo, safc1.

Is it pointless to tune idle and cruise settings?
 

grimreaper

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where did you get the knock signal wiring for that safc 1?? what color wires from the safc are hooked up to it?

leave cruise alone, the tccs will handle it assuming everything is working as it should.
im not sure how much it will muddy the waters if you adjust a single point at 800rpms for idle. SC any comment on this?
 

Supracentral

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grimreaper;1239337 said:
im not sure how much it will muddy the waters if you adjust a single point at 800rpms for idle. SC any comment on this?

It's generally not a good idea. The TCCS will just fight you to tun out whatever you put in. And it will screw up your long term trims.

I never mess with Idle, Cruize or low boost rpm's with these things. I concentrate all the set points in the "full boost" are and tune in there where it matters.

I tune everything under 4000 rpm to Vf and then use the piggyback after 4000 RPM at WOT to get the right tune.

Also, be sure your tuner understands tuning for Vf. If you don't know what I'm talking about, here's a post I made on it a couple of years ago that should help:

Bottom of this one: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=545583&postcount=7

This one too: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=547633&postcount=16

The whole thread is actually worth a read, it's got a lot of info in it. Although it's about the MAP-ECU, the fundamentals of all piggy backs are the same.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39712
 

mk3tattoos

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I guess i hooked up a wire that was not needed, oops. I will NOT try and tune anything below wot.

I'm having trouble picking the ne points. Do you start @1000rpm's and then stop @5500rpm's? And thanks for all the great help!!!
 

isnms

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Do you have a wideband or are you tuning only using VF?

If you have a wideband, I have some worksheets in my sig you can use to assist you in tuning. You need Excel also.

edit: Now I see in post#1 you have a wideband. Take a look at the Gain Adjustment Worksheet to see if it can help.
 

Supracentral

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mk3tattoos;1239405 said:
I'm having trouble picking the ne points. Do you start @1000rpm's and then stop @5500rpm's? And thanks for all the great help!!!

Depends on your injectors & turbo. For example, with many Lexus AFM/550 cars, I've found that a base fuel pressure ajustment can get you pretty perfect Vf readings without any AFC tweaking at all. That means you can concentrate your points up higher when they are critical.

For example:

If you have a car that you can get idle and cruise just about perfect with fuel pressure adjustments, you can then pack your ne-points into the upper range:

Example 1:

ne point|rpm
1|4000
2|4500
3|4750
4|5000
5|5250
6|5500
7|5750
8|6000

You try this and you find that actually you really are having problems in the 3500 to 4500 range. So you reset your ne points to:

ne point|rpm
1|3500
2|3750
3|4000
4|4250
5|4500
6|5000
7|5550
8|6000

But let's say you have all kinds of idle and cruise problems. Then you might do something like:

ne point|rpm
1|500
2|1000
3|1500
4|2000
5|3000
6|4000
7|5000
8|6000

These are just some examples of how you might set them up. There is no one "correct" way. It really depends on what you need to accomplish, your mods and how your car's Vf readings go.

The correct way to approach it is:

Get your car on a dyno.
Using wideband and Vf, get the car to idle and cruise on the chassis dyno properly by doing nothing but adjust fuel pressure. If you can get a good Vf there, then push your ne points up into the boost range and only use your AFC to tune full throttle.

If you can't accomplish that goal, you might want to consider a more robust fuel computer (like a MAP-ECU - see this thread - start at post #7) or a MAFT (talk to DrJonez), or even a newer AFC that has more nepoints.
 

mk3tattoos

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isnms;1239489 said:
Do you have a wideband or are you tuning only using VF?

If you have a wideband, I have some worksheets in my sig you can use to assist you in tuning. You need Excel also.

edit: Now I see in post#1 you have a wideband. Take a look at the Gain Adjustment Worksheet to see if it can help.

I can not get it to open, any ideas? I would like to use it! thanks.
 

grimreaper

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isnms i cant enter my current af ratio, is this done purposefully?


one thing im not seeing with the map setups is the caution on the level of adjustment being used or rather the constant "dont pull to much" like with other piggy backs. With a safc, it mucks up timing table selection when adding or pulling fuel, wouldnt a map setup essentially cause the same issues since the stock ecu is still in use?