No, routing the PCV just to the accordion will not damage it. But, it will route any oil vapor straight to your IC where it will condense.
High idle, and BOV open at idle?
- Thread starter Jaguar_5
- Start date
Well I just meant, It's already routed to the accordion hose stock, so since my PCV port is clogged that's the path it will have to take!
I can deal with the first few hundred miles until I get a new throttle body!
Back to work getting things back together and troubleshooting this idle.
I can deal with the first few hundred miles until I get a new throttle body!
Back to work getting things back together and troubleshooting this idle.
It's still plugged into the TB like stock, but since it's clogged internally it's the same as being blocked off 
I think the problem went away, I still have to drive the car and see how it does warm, see if I can set timing... but after a short start up (cold) it was at about 900 rpms, all I touched was the idle screw! Everything else went back together as is, when I pinched the ISCV hose it instantly died
I pulled the efi fuse after that to reset it for a few minutes, I'm going to go for a drive in a little while
I think the problem went away, I still have to drive the car and see how it does warm, see if I can set timing... but after a short start up (cold) it was at about 900 rpms, all I touched was the idle screw! Everything else went back together as is, when I pinched the ISCV hose it instantly died
I pulled the efi fuse after that to reset it for a few minutes, I'm going to go for a drive in a little while
So the idle bypass was open. That would do it alrght. It should be all the way seated, not open one turn. And there's no need to buy a new TB. I've yet to see a plugged PCV port that couldn't be opened...
The simple stuff seems to be biting you Jag...glad you found it.
How did the drive go?
Next...get your timing on the money
How did the drive go?
Next...get your timing on the money
jdub;1126219 said:The simple stuff seems to be biting you Jag...glad you found it.
How did the drive go?
Next...get your timing on the money
At least it's simple stuff so far! Basically everything I've done on this build has been a first, so it's all one hell of a learning experience!
I'm pretty sure I need to adjust the CPS by one tooth...
The drive, didn't go so great, started stuttering and bucking like hell, the tachometer even jumped up and down like crazy, scared the heck outta me, I had to limp it to my parents and get a lift home
I'm pretty sure what's going on is now that the amount of air going into the engine has changed, I'm running super rich (like 9 afr as soon I hit load), I think I saturated the plugs and just need to reset the Maft and start from scratch with my tune
Just wanted to update this thread for future reference
My hunch was correct as far as saturating the plugs, the car is running again, the idle screw is all the way in, and it idles around 700 rpm, but I can only get the timing as high as 5*, so looks like I need to set the CPS back one tooth to where it was!
But the idle is fixed and it was indeed the idle air screw and nothing else! Sure makes sense because every hose and gasket under that hood is new
[Edit]I have found out that the CPS was off 180*, reset it at TDC and cam gears pointing up, and now my timing is perfect
My hunch was correct as far as saturating the plugs, the car is running again, the idle screw is all the way in, and it idles around 700 rpm, but I can only get the timing as high as 5*, so looks like I need to set the CPS back one tooth to where it was!
But the idle is fixed and it was indeed the idle air screw and nothing else! Sure makes sense because every hose and gasket under that hood is new
[Edit]I have found out that the CPS was off 180*, reset it at TDC and cam gears pointing up, and now my timing is perfect
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