Help with getting 1jz mk3 back to life!!!

[Nexumis]

Thanks in advance for any help. First let me say I bought this car running. It was running fine but I blew a headgasket (im thinking because of high boost and the meth injection pump died and i didnt know it). So a friend of mine had a 1jz block sitting around that he is going to let me have til i get my 1jz rebuilt. Ok on to the info on the engine and electronics.

1jzgte single turbo conversion-precision 6266 on 15lb boost before BHG
AEM v1
walbro 255 in tank and bosch 044 external in line
RC750cc injector
tial BOV and 38mm Wastegate
Manual boost controller

So what i did was took my exhaust manifold with turbo wastegate etc etc and intake manifold with wiring harness still attached and swapped to the other 1jz block and installed into the car. One of the cam postion sensors plugs broke so i got another one and spliced it in. (im pretty sure i have it connected like it was before). I did not swap any sensors over at all.

This is what it is doing. The first start up took some gas pedal manipulation and it didnt want to stay running but after a minute or so it would idle on its own but it ran really rich and black smoke was coming out the exhaust (im sure the plugs are fouled by now, will be getting new ones tomorrow).
The next day i went and turned the key over and it started and idled on its own. After i cut the ignition and try to re start it, it would start up and then cut off. Again with pedal manipulation i could maintain rpms. So please help guys.

 

[Nexumis]

UPDATE: I got it to crank and idle fine. It has no power when driving. The turbo normally spooled around 3500-4k rpm before the other motor got boom boom. I think the turbo is spooling now cause the bov sounds off when i let off of throttle, but i cant feel any power and it doesnt show any boost past 2psi on the boost gauge.

 

[Nexumis]

ok after completely going through the wiring harness and fixing some things. I have the same problem but decided to test compression and cylinder ignition. Compression across the engine is 180. While idling, i unplugged coils 1 by 1. I found that the car runs the same with coil 1 and 4 unplugged simultaneously. So I checked spark with coils pulled out connected to spark plug and got no spark that i could see. I then connected cylinder 2 coil up and still got no spark but when in previous test pulled the coil connector off of coil 2, the rpm would lower? So please help out, im thinking igniter at this point.

 

[seoul4korea]

Factory ECU? if so check you ECU for blown capacitors.

 

[wilbo666]

I don't like answering questions via PM (No one else gets helped by the answer that way), so next time please send me a link to the post / thread in a PM if you need to...


Assuming that the problem is ignition related, and not a result of a hole in a piston, fuel issue, etc then there is heaps of things one can check...


Firstly it looks like cylinders 5&6 are working OK, so the first thing I would do is swap the coil pack from there (after marking it in some way so that you know that it is your "good" coil pack) and see if when you move it to say cylinders 1&2 that the fault at cylinder 1 remains.

If the fault doesn't follow the coil packs then the next thing I would do is check that there is ignition switched +12V at the coil pack plugs for each cylinder. Sorry I can't remember which of the two pins is meant to have the +12V on it, but you should be able to compare to your known good cylinders or check a wiring diagram

If there is +12V to each coil pack, then the next thing to do is check if they are being triggered by the igniter. To do this I would get an LED (Light Emitting Diode) and put a 1k resistor inline with the LED to make a check test light. You can put each leg of the 'test light' into the 2 pin coil pack plugs and then crank the engine and the LED should flash. If the LED doesn't flash make sure you have the positive leg of the LED connected to the pin that has the +12V (try it the other way around is also a good option ).

If the LED doesn't flash on the 'bad' cylinders but does on the good ones then check the wiring back to the igniter (I assume you are using the factory igniter?) using a multimeter.

If this is OK then you need to check the ignition outputs from the AEM. This can be done with the 'test light' at the igniter by unplugging the igniter plug.
I've put an image showing the igniter pinout below. It is shown looking AT the igniter, not the igniter plugs so you will need to take this into account! If you put the 'test light' with the positive leg on the IGT1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 pins of the unplugged igniter plug and the other leg of the 'test light' to battery negative (ground) then crank the engine the 'test light' should flash.

If the 'test light' doesn't flash then trace the wiring back from the igniter plug to the AEM. If all the IGTx seem OK then you'll need to test your igniter on another engine, or find a known good one to test on yours...

Do some testing and get back to us...

Some info to help...

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/38276-1jz-ignitor-pinouts.html
http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/47216384/1JZ-GTE JZZ30 Soarer
http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/file/fetch/51111360/xZZ3x Electrical Wiring Diagram 6737105 3-7.png

Cheers
Wilbo

 

[Nexumis]

Thanks Wilbo for the help in advance. I messaged you on the other forums and did not know you were on these, and did not want to inconvenience you.

I made the test light, when i went to purchase the resistor and led, the guy at the electronics store told me i would need 680 resistor. I made the test light, and it works from batter post neg to pos. I swapped coil packs, no change in cylinder 1. I used the test lead as you said and all 6 coil pack plugs show pulse, so did not proceed any further with testing ignition. If you want me to I will. Thanks again and I'm ready for the next process!!!!!

 

[seoul4korea]

Thanks Wilbo for the help in advance. I messaged you on the other forums and did not know you were on these, and did not want to inconvenience you.

I made the test light, when i went to purchase the resistor and led, the guy at the electronics store told me i would need 680 resistor. I made the test light, and it works from batter post neg to pos. I swapped coil packs, no change in cylinder 1. I used the test lead as you said and all 6 coil pack plugs show pulse, so did not proceed any further with testing ignition. If you want me to I will. Thanks again and I'm ready for the next process!!!!!

So I see you had good numbers during the compression, did you do a leak down test as well?

Did you inspect your ECU?

 

[Nexumis]

no, no leak down test as of yet. when i did my compression test, i did it dry and with every spark plug out. I would like to check my fuel system first before going into a leak down test, as it seems easier and simpler. But if the fuel system checks out, i will be sure to do the leak down test.

 

[seoul4korea]

WHAT ABOUT THE ECU?

did you check to see if the injector for those cylinders are firing?

 

[wilbo666]

seoul4korea: He has an AEM v1 engine ECU, which is an aftermarket engine ECU. There is a version that is plug and play for 2JZGTE so my guess is that he has rewired his loom to allow that to be connected...he isn't running a factory engine ECU


The next thing I would do is swap a known good spark plug into cyl 1 as that's the only ignition component that hasn't been 'tested'.

If that doesn't work, then seeing as you only really need fuel and spark for an engine to run (in basic terms), I'd start looking at fuel seeing as you are saying that you are sure you have compression...

Unplug the fuel injectors and use the test light on each fuel injector plug to check that the injectors are getting a signal to operate from the engine ECU. If no signal then trace back...

Also it is not unheard of for fuel injectors to stick closed if they have sat for a long time (and running met might help cause them to stick...?) so the next thing I would do is to use a small length of small diameter rubber hose as a stethoscope (some people like to use a long screwdriver) to listen to each injector as the engine is running. They should all 'click' the same. I've managed to loosen up stock injectors in the past by manually applying +12v to them in short bursts (you dont want to connect them to power all the time as theu might heat up and fail) until they start clicking like they should...

Another option is to take the injectors out and get them cleaned & tested (not a bad option).

Cheers
Wilbo

 

[seoul4korea]

seoul4korea: He has an AEM v1 engine ECU, which is an aftermarket engine ECU. There is a version that is plug and play for 2JZGTE so my guess is that he has rewired his loom to allow that to be connected...he isn't running a factory engine ECU


The next thing I would do is swap a known good spark plug into cyl 1 as that's the only ignition component that hasn't been 'tested'.

If that doesn't work, then seeing as you only really need fuel and spark for an engine to run (in basic terms), I'd start looking at fuel seeing as you are saying that you are sure you have compression...

Unplug the fuel injectors and use the test light on each fuel injector plug to check that the injectors are getting a signal to operate from the engine ECU. If no signal then trace back...

Also it is not unheard of for fuel injectors to stick closed if they have sat for a long time (and running met might help cause them to stick...?) so the next thing I would do is to use a small length of small diameter rubber hose as a stethoscope (some people like to use a long screwdriver) to listen to each injector as the engine is running. They should all 'click' the same. I've managed to loosen up stock injectors in the past by manually applying +12v to them in short bursts (you dont want to connect them to power all the time as theu might heat up and fail) until they start clicking like they should...

Another option is to take the injectors out and get them cleaned & tested (not a bad option).

Cheers
Wilbo

Oh shit I didn't see he had AEM 1 lol if I had known that I would have saved my time haha. I have aAEM 2 by the way so I know what a stand alone is.

I would agree with his course of action for testing for fuel, I think I recall hearing that you've already looked at the wiring harness correct?

 

[Nexumis]

yes i went through the harness and redid some connectors and re ran the knock sensor wires with shielded cable.

I tested the injector plugs just like i did the coil pack plugs and got the same pulsating, so now im gonna take my fuel rail and injectors off and make a fuel injector tester/cleaner like i saw on this youtube video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dp-ECEpN52k

please advise if i should do it another way.


EDIT: After removing the injectors, i've decided to remove the intake manifold and make sure the mating surfaces are clean. I can see the black stuff peeling off of the gasket so im going to replace it and the upper runner gasket as well as all the injector seals-given that they all test good.

 

[wilbo666]

Did you listen for the injectors clicking before taking it all apart?

I guess that YouTube video should work for testing the injectors...

Personally if I was going to make my own injector test rig I'd always thought about using the fuel rail and lower manifold section (if possible), with a fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator and softdrink bottles to catch the injector spray. And a way to pulse them all at the same time so you can check they have even flows...

Also one thing to be careful about, I don't know if your injectors are low or high impedance (resistance) so keep that in mind when you go applying voltage / current to them - make sure you don't apply too much current and damage them (do you run resistors for them?). A 9V battery might be better to use than a 12V car battery.

Cheers
Wilbo

 

[Nexumis]

update** after pulling the intake, fuel rail, injectors all off and cleaning/testing everything i still have the same issue. I installed some heat shielding gaskets from driftmotion as well, due to they being about the same price as oem ones. Any more ideas, thoughts?

 

[seoul4korea]

update** after pulling the intake, fuel rail, injectors all off and cleaning/testing everything i still have the same issue. I installed some heat shielding gaskets from driftmotion as well, due to they being about the same price as oem ones. Any more ideas, thoughts?

I'd ask how you like that gasket as I have one I need to install but im guessing you cant really test it haha. have you tried changing ignitors?

 

[Nexumis]

yes ive tried 3 different ignitors. Is it possible the firing order is mixed up, maybe i have fuel injector clips swapped wrongly.

 

[scottiedawg66]

yes ive tried 3 different ignitors. Is it possible the firing order is mixed up, maybe i have fuel injector clips swapped wrongly.

what impedence are your injectors? The AEM V1 needs a resistor pack to run low imp. injectors.

 

[Nexumis]

they are high impendance injectors, this setup ran before the engine change out. AS of right now i got the car to crank and idle on its own without using the throttle any, on that note it idles a little high like 1250 and vacuum gauge shows -14 on it, before when everything ran well the vacuum was -20 to -21, so im thinking vacuum leak. I checked everything on the manifold!!!! Like i unplugged every vacuum and taped the holes , iacv, took the brake vacuum off and taped it, same -14 vacuum. This has always been the case from swapping in the current engine, so my question is- Will a cracked exhaust manifold show these symptoms like a vacuum leak?

 

[Nexumis]

This issue is fixed, it was a timing issue. Thanks to all for their help and input. Awesome community.