help with front strut

[Soupie]

hey everyone, i was wondering what would be the best approach as to taking off the front strut assembly w/o tems? Do you need to remove the upper control arm? suggestions please..i couldnt get it out earlier today ::3d_frown::3d_frown::3d_frown:

 

[IJ.]

Yes the pivot bolt for the upper arm needs to be removed, you can undo the nut then slide the bolt forward far enough to get it out, you may have to slip it in behind the plastic inner fender to clear.

 

[Soupie]

IJ.
Yes the pivot bolt for the upper arm needs to be removed, you can undo the nut then slide the bolt forward far enough to get it out, you may have to slip it in behind the plastic inner fender to clear.
Today 09:49 PMSoupie

The pivot bolt is the one on the underside of the upper control arm assembly correct? because if it is i tried to do that earlier but the angle of the bolt was wierd and couldnt get enough leverage to undo it! :nono:

 

[IJ.]

Big long bolt that goes right through the inner bushes.

 

[hvyman]

Farthest away from the rotor.

 

[Soupie]

ive never removed the pivot bolt before..is removing it going to allow me to take it off directly? pictures please!

---------- Post added at 10:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:33 PM ----------

if i remove that bolt however wont the strut get int he way of me swinging it around? or can it flip backwards or something?

 

[hvyman]

Yes. Remove the big long bolt with the nut. Its the only way to get the shock out.

You take the nut off, slide the bolt out(the big washer has to stay next to the control arm), the control arm will fall out of place along with the hub and rotor, then the shock can slide out with ease. Not to hard.
The nut does however need to be tighten when the car is on the ground and off the jacks.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FA&P=17

 

[Soupie]

thanks alot everyone! that was really informative. although how can i tighten the nut if my car is on the ground already?

 

[hvyman]

Turn the wheel.

 

[Soupie]

Turn the wheel.

thanks hvyman. It's getting late and obviously my brain isnt thinking anymore :/

---------- Post added at 10:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:49 PM ----------

what kind of coilover setup do you have there btw? im looking around for some and saw some mdu coilovers on ebay..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ADJU...1c9QQitemZ120708309449QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts

what do you think?

 

[hvyman]

Those are crap. Im waiting for my set of the zankoku coils from the group buy. Can no longer get them

Any coils under 700 are most likely crap.

 

[Soupie]

Those are crap. Im waiting for my set of the zankoku coils from the group buy. Can no longer get them

Any coils under 700 are most likely crap.

thats not entirely true! megan ez's are really goods coils and are only 600$ shipped!

 

[nctexan]

Here's one for everybody: do the domed washers that go on the outside of the upper control arm bushings face so they are convex to the bushing (creating ~ 1/8" gap between the washer and the rubber bushing, and thus contacting metal to metal with the bushing inner metal sleeve-see pic below), or concave so the outer edge of the washer comes in contact with the bushing?

 

[Brewhaha]

Here's one for everybody: do the domed washers that go on the outside of the upper control arm bushings face so they are convex to the bushing (creating ~ 1/8" gap between the washer and the rubber bushing, and thus contacting metal to metal with the bushing inner metal sleeve-see pic below), or concave so the outer edge of the washer comes in contact with the bushing?

View attachment 65751

I'm reassembling my front suspension and would like to know this is as well... I'm guessing it should be metal to metal and not metal to bushing?