Help needed with the rest of my 1j install

[Sl!ck]

Ok, Ive been working on getting everything ready to drop in, I finally got the motor and tranny dropped and tightened in and almost everything ready to start and roll. However I am haqving a few issues. One is it's an auto to manual swap, so I dont know where a connector would be for the clutch saftey thing. Two is the spark plugs are getting no spark and I'm not sure where to even start with that. We can not turn over the engine from the key but we rigged a wire from starter to battery just tro see if the car would start, it wouldn't just kept turning never actually caught. Am i missing anything? Any adivse or help would be great, if you need pics of any particular part let me know I will take and post to try and help. Thanks

Or if youre local just stop by

 

[87supraguy]

is your key in the start position when your trying to start the car with your rigged wire to the starter... cause if the ignition switch is in the off position it may not send power and signal to the ignitor then no signa; from the ignitor to the coil packs.... just a thought

 

[Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE]

Lol
Was your car auto to begin with the MA70 bodie? you have to splice the EFI And other power wire togther like the manual schematics Autos have Split body EFI harness around the park selector switch

Also Auto ECUs at minimum require the NSW signal before EFI will run they will code and detune your engine with out the auto because the ECU will detect the seleniods are open its not getting the Auto speed signals its not getting clutch speed trans temp all the Auto signals are missing it will code and under power the engine to protect the tranny. So you need to put dummy load singals to the auto portion to correct these issues.

 

[JP85MX73]

. So you need to put dummy load singals to the auto portion to correct these issues.

how would you go about doing that?

 

[Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE]

Impedence matching the sensors if it drives them and bridge resisters across the inputs. So it doesnt detect open solenoids.
For temp feedbacks I would thread a thermal sensor on a metal tab welded to a really hot heat source or maybe tap the water temp feedback? you can even run a fixed resister with the value of a normaly healthy warm and operating tranny resistance at the good temperature because if the ecu becomes concerned the auto maybe over heating it may tell the engine to be gental and back off power,throw codes etc. uhm the speed sensor feedback would depend on how many teeth if its reluctor hall effect how many pulses etc but you may just run a speed signal split from the same one that comes from the speedo so that it thinks the tranny is still in the car all the sensors are healthy and everythings fine.

For my 1UZ-FE swap replacing the 5VZ-FE they have different tranny configurations 1 haves 4 solenoids the other haves 3 1 haves an input clutch speed sensor the other doesnt, one runs a hall effect for the second speed sensor the other doesnt.

So this is how I fixed it.
I tapped a hole into 5VZ-FE auto for the clutch speed sensor since i swapped pump center shaft and bellhousing it haves the pick up teeth from the other pump now inside the 5VZ-FE auto but dont worry the gear ratios of the A340s are both the same so speed all calibrates to each other and will not code and work great.

The themal sensor goes into the same connector as the selenoid connector on the 1UZ auto the 5VZ haves a themal sensor external threaded into the bellhousing opposit end of the clutch speed sensor so wire the internal 1uz to the external 5vz instead sensors read the same temps same readings on calibration tables.

Since the 1uz haves 4 solenoids the 5VZ haves three wire the same No1 No2 torque converter lock up solenoids to the same the spare 5VZ solenoid gets wired to a dummy load simulating the coil resistance and load of a solenoid in place when it is infact not there since its uneaded in the 5vz no harm done the other three solenoids have the same speed shift patterns and the same logic so nothing is in harms way.

The 1uZ haves a second vehical speed signal coming from a hall effect in the tailshaft of its A340
The 5VZ produces the second speed singal from believe it or not the ABS system it calculates it based on the 4 wheels abs sensors well 2 wheels actually might share one anyway.

That in a nut shell is what work goes into making all the signals work when switch to different types of A340s

In your case you would have nothing but 100% tranny simulated signals.

I read somewhere in the troubleshooting guid ECUs with the auto A340s will code solenoids if the resistance is out of a certain range so if the ECU reads solenoids or resistors it will not code and it will not degrade engine power.

Traction control is a whole nother story but luckily traction control & abs is not built into the EFI ECU the only time they mingle is when the ecu looks for two TPS signals the tps signals are different resistance ranges because 2 tps in circuit versus 1 divided into 2 inputs singals will change tps resistance values to make a long story short change the TPS sensor to the non traction control one and split the singal into the ECU or put in a resistor thats the same value as the traction control TPS in the open position then you can delete it and not have to change the sensors.

I could talk about this stuff for days & its simple every day work for what I do.
But it can be defeated and you can keep your car running like it should.

 

[Gunnar]

12 ohm resistors in place on S1 and S2 will do the trick?

 

[Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE]

Here is the temp sensor range
"DTC 38 A T fluid temp circuit
DTC No.38 if tempsensor reads below 79(its hot or shorted)
or if after engine runs for 15 min temp sensor reads more then 156k(its cold or its open)

So i think around 100 ohm resistor on the temp sensor will keep the ECU happy

DTC No 46 if ecm haves high duty cycle
if current on#4 solenoid is 330+ - 100ma or less
checking no 4 solenoid should read 5.1 -5.5 ohms

dtc 62 63 no1 & no2 solenoid will code if resistance is lower then 8 ohm or higher then 100 ohm but the wierd part is it says it should read 10 - 16 ohm when checking if good so 12 ohm should be good!

dtc 64
no 3 solenoid should be 3.5-3.9 ohm!
"

diagnostic values from trsm of 2jzgte a340
"

 

[Gunnar]

With solenoid 3 you mean lockup and solenoid 4 line pressure ?

 

[Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE]

I would read a A340 manuel

The 1 2 are the gear #3 is the lockup #4 is line pressure some even have 5 I think the mkiiis didnt have #4 but i could be wrong.

Readup if you want pm me your email and ill send you like 20 different a340 manuals.

 

[soapra]

WOW, after reading all the other post I'm confused. Please post a picture of your ECU plugs please! What car did the 1jz engine and harness come from? Give me that info and I will solve this issue.


Dummy loads to ECU? WTH ?????

---------- Post added at 04:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:36 AM ----------

Lol
Was your car auto to begin with the MA70 bodie? you have to splice the EFI And other power wire togther like the manual schematics Autos have Split body EFI harness around the park selector switch

Also Auto ECUs at minimum require the NSW signal before EFI will run they will code and detune your engine with out the auto because the ECU will detect the seleniods are open its not getting the Auto speed signals its not getting clutch speed trans temp all the Auto signals are missing it will code and under power the engine to protect the tranny. So you need to put dummy load singals to the auto portion to correct these issues.

I've never seen so much wrong information given in two posts. The 1jz ECU will never ask for any of these signals to run. My VVTi 1jz is from an Auto and I never did 99.999999% of what you speak of doing in both of your posts.
Regular 1jz's dont need alll that to start. You are asking this fellow to build a circuit board just to allow this car to start?

---------- Post added at 04:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:45 AM ----------

Ok, Ive been working on getting everything ready to drop in, I finally got the motor and tranny dropped and tightened in and almost everything ready to start and roll. However I am haqving a few issues. One is it's an auto to manual swap, so I dont know where a connector would be for the clutch saftey thing. Two is the spark plugs are getting no spark and I'm not sure where to even start with that. We can not turn over the engine from the key but we rigged a wire from starter to battery just tro see if the car would start, it wouldn't just kept turning never actually caught. Am i missing anything? Any adivse or help would be great, if you need pics of any particular part let me know I will take and post to try and help. Thanks

Or if youre local just stop by

If your 1jz is from an chaser or soarer it will need to have the starter wire from the fuse box connector lengthen from there to the square body connector under the dash.(Soarers and chasers have the Starter relay in the fuse box. MA70's have inside the car) If you are not getting power to the coils that only means that the ECU is not getting power and the Main EFI relay is not wired in to your harness. That is the reason why your coils are not getting any power.

 

[Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE]

I know how the power wires run to the front Vs back because the SC400 1UZ also does that but the SC400 runs the alternator wires through the car chassie VS Efi Harness infact the chassie on the front right fender.

What I am refering to is the ECUs where they are designed for automatic and when there is bad or no signals coming from the auto codes start flying through the ECU causing it to try and derate power to protect the transmission It does It I seen it.

It works the same way with traction control however traction control is part of the ABS ECU your car will have either ABS alone or ABS With Traction Control.
I know because I had to, and want to delete traction control for an off roading V8 in my 4runner.

Nothing would suck more then to be off roading trying to floor it through the mud and the ECU detects the wheels slip and activates the Traction system causing the engine to bog while trying to make an escape or adventure then causing the engine to die.

The easiest supra automatic ECU to use with a manual transmission conversion is the 7M because the brains are two seperate computers.
All you have to do is install the manual give the ECU the NSW switch signal rip out the old ECT ECU put a jumper in the Park Selectror switch so that it will crank over and start call it a day.

Also you can have an Auto 340 ecu designed for more solenoids control a different type of a340 with fewer solenoids.
You just need to add the proper sensors speed inputs but apply a load on the extra solenoids so the ECU doesnt kick down the trany in its own safe mode because the health of the other solenoids.

But you cant install a 5 solenoids Auto transmission and have a 3 solenoid ECU control it.

I talked to level 10 externsively on this about ECUs, controls, valve bodys.

 

[soapra]

I know how the power wires run to the front Vs back because the SC400 1UZ also does that but the SC400 runs the alternator wires through the car chassie VS Efi Harness infact the chassie on the front right fender.

What I am refering to is the ECUs where they are designed for automatic and when there is bad or no signals coming from the auto codes start flying through the ECU causing it to try and derate power to protect the transmission It does It I seen it.

It works the same way with traction control however traction control is part of the ABS ECU your car will have either ABS alone or ABS With Traction Control.
I know because I had to, and want to delete traction control for an off roading V8 in my 4runner.

Nothing would suck more then to be off roading trying to floor it through the mud and the ECU detects the wheels slip and activates the Traction system causing the engine to bog while trying to make an escape or adventure then causing the engine to die.

The easiest supra automatic ECU to use with a manual transmission conversion is the 7M because the brains are two seperate computers.
All you have to do is install the manual give the ECU the NSW switch signal rip out the old ECT ECU put a jumper in the Park Selectror switch so that it will crank over and start call it a day.

Also you can have an Auto 340 ecu designed for more solenoids control a different type of a340 with fewer solenoids.
You just need to add the proper sensors speed inputs but apply a load on the extra solenoids so the ECU doesnt kick down the trany in its own safe mode because the health of the other solenoids.

But you cant install a 5 solenoids Auto transmission and have a 3 solenoid ECU control it.

I talked to level 10 externsively on this about ECUs, controls, valve bodys.

Well, he never wanted to know about running an auto ecu with three to four solenoids. Its an auto to manual swap and that is it. The Auto ECU doesn't have any check engine codes if it doesn't see the the Auto trans there. It also doesn't go in to limp mode or turn down power. It works just like a manual ECU. OBD2 cars are different, but the 1jz and 2jz VVTi and non VVTi ecu's dont care if they are auto to manual conversions running a W58, R154 or V160.

It works the same way with traction control however traction control is part of the ABS ECU your car will have either ABS alone or ABS With Traction Control.
I know because I had to, and want to delete traction control for an off roading V8 in my 4runner.

Nothing would suck more then to be off roading trying to floor it through the mud and the ECU detects the wheels slip and activates the Traction system causing the engine to bog while trying to make an escape or adventure then causing the engine to die.

None of this applies to a MK3. Even with an engine from a 2000 Supra, that was originally auto but with a six speed conversion will the car bog, lose power or the engine die if it detects wheel spin. It will lay 20 feet of rubber at will and first and second gear.

I'm not trying to be rude, but this information is irrelevant to what this person is asking. If someone wanted to run a 3uz on stock ecu with a factory Auto box that was a 4 speed not a three speed A34X trans it will make sense.