Been a long time since I posted here. I traded a mustang for the red and black supra that used to belong to my dad. The car has a jdm 7m and since has had problems it has a new cps, new fuel pump, and a nnew timing belt cause the belt slipped a tooth popping the clutch. It is throwing code 11 which is low voltage to the ecu, and its idling rough unless I pull off the intercooler piping from the 3000 pipe it idles fine so I'm thinking a vacuum leak. The cam gears look really close I'm wondering if the timing is dead on after the timing belt change. And it has a weird electrical gremlin since the motor swap, if the car is off the headlights work as they should but if you start the car the headlights automatically come on and pop up with the headlight switch off and go off if you turn the switch to on but the lights stay up anyway I know some of you guys like a challenge and I like to learn so I got another supra to tinker with
Help need help lots of supra issues to test your skills on
- Thread starter SBM713
- Start date
The timing belt slipped a tooth, and popped the clutch...
what?
As for the electrical, Check to make sure the wiring harness grounds are connected- most importantly, the one under the #6 intake runner.
If that's off, all kinds of wacky crap can happen.
what?
As for the electrical, Check to make sure the wiring harness grounds are connected- most importantly, the one under the #6 intake runner.
If that's off, all kinds of wacky crap can happen.
What does slipping a tooth have to do with a clutch??? Like wat he said check all ur grounds..or just make new ones and are you sure its a real Jim 7mgte??
Sorry guys lol, the starter wassnt engaging due to a bad starter relay and we were popping the clutch to start it then the timing belt slipped a tooth and more problems showed up. Now this ground under intake runner 6, does it have a plug connector cause I found a broken wire that has a plug just hanging but I couldn't figure out where it goes. The swap is kinda half assed cause my dad let a bunch of different shade tree mechanics swap it then more to work on it and try to fix it. It started today for the first time in a year and a half now just to fix all the issues
Sorry guys lol, the starter wassnt engaging due to a bad starter relay and we were popping the clutch to start it then the timing belt slipped a tooth and more problems showed up. Now this ground under intake runner 6, does it have a plug connector cause I found a broken wire that has a plug just hanging but I couldn't figure out where it goes. The swap is kinda half assed cause my dad let a bunch of different shade tree mechanics swap it then more to work on it and try to fix it. It started today for the first time in a year and a half now just to fix all the issues
And I'm pretty sure it is a jdm 7m I know the charcoal canister had to be deleted, but the guy who put it in for my dad charged 1500 for the motor and got our 86.5 na parts car for labor
And I'm pretty sure it is a jdm 7m I know the charcoal canister had to be deleted, but the guy who put it in for my dad charged 1500 for the motor and got our 86.5 na parts car for labor
I'm not familiar with why you'd have to delete the charcoal cannister for a JDM motor, unless the port on the throttle body isn't there?
But the ground under the intake is an eyelet-type ground, of a few wires together. It bolts on the inderside of the intake.
Where in GA are you located? I'm in Lawrenceville.
But the ground under the intake is an eyelet-type ground, of a few wires together. It bolts on the inderside of the intake.
Where in GA are you located? I'm in Lawrenceville.
I'm currently doing an intership in LaFayette Ga (a bit north of Atlanta) if you need a hand. I've notices there are a bunch of hicks around that love to pretend they know what they are doing and jerryrig the crap out of everything they touch.
And I'm a ways away from you guys I live in blairsville next to the tn and nc lines its about 2 hours north of atl and about 1 hr and 45 minutes from lawrenceville but noone up here plays with these cars there's not even 240s or cool honda guys lol so I'm alone in this
Okay update well not really just info, I have a wire that goes nowhere between the 2 and 3rd injector. The loose wire I mentioned earlier around the starter comes off the harness on top of the intake and between the 4-5 intake runner. I pulled it to the top of the intake so I could see the wire color its like a clear copper out of the harness, then goes into a grey connector then a very short piece of black wire and what looks to be a broken sodder to whatever it goes to anyway if someone wants to get a pic of what I'm talking about text 7069947206 I would just post but I don't think I can from my phone
I'm getting code 24,31,51, and 52. Code 24 is intake air temp short or open, 31 is mass air ( I unplugged it to see if it changed the idle quality, it didn't), the code 51 is ac circuit open or something about the tps (AC is off) , and code 52 I believe was for the knock sensor.
Now the car was idling rough yesterday but now its idling rough and is pig rich
I'm thinking the loose wire may be to the oil pressure sending unit just realized my guage isn't working
Now the car was idling rough yesterday but now its idling rough and is pig rich
I'm thinking the loose wire may be to the oil pressure sending unit just realized my guage isn't working
I'm not on a computer I'm on my phone trying to fix this, my laptop broke a while back.. but its a single wire out of a grey sleeve, it looks clearish copper core wire to this cylindrical grey connector that has a short maybe 1 inch black wire with a broken sodder end I think its for oil pressure because its not working. I unplugged the battery and now its only throwing code 51, but would that explain my rough idle?
SBM713;1885670 said:
Fix your engine codes THEN try to get the little things fixed. With 51 and 52 you'll never get it running correctly. Unplugging the afm while at idle won't do anything, unplug it and rev it. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=26
Googled the knock sensor it looks like its broken the head off it, ill check it when I get home. And yea I know to clear the codes up first but the last one I had was 51 with my ac switched off is there a way to check the tps like with the process of elimination? By the way thank you guys for the help this far
Code 51 is a few things, make sure your foot is not on the throttle while checking codes along with the A/C being off. Code 51 normally is the TPS is out of calibration if it checks out correctly. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=101