hella 90mm headlights?

NJsupraA70

Ex-Supra Owner
Sep 18, 2005
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NJ
Those are not 90mm hella in that picture. If you want an accurate pic use supranick car for reference.
 

KeithH

New Member
Mar 31, 2005
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The problem is each person will do a completely different install. I've seen SupraNick's installation and mine will be different than his.

There's a LOT of hard work and thought in these kinds of projects and those of us that undertake these sorts of things want to be a little different. It would be different if someone wants to pay me to create a detailed document.

Projects like these are pretty straight forward if you just think your way through them. I am no professional custom headlight designer but I've figured it out - mostly.
 

rodel

SoCal
May 19, 2005
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SoCal
NJsupraA70;913820 said:
Those are not 90mm hella in that picture. If you want an accurate pic use supranick car for reference.

Those lights came off a sport bike.
 

KeithH

New Member
Mar 31, 2005
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Please note that putting HID bulbs into a lens that was not designed for HID bulbs is illegal and will glare oncoming drivers.
 

mikes_88_supra

New Member
Nov 5, 2007
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Missouri
tekdeus;914350 said:
My write-up will give you most of the info you'd need to do a similar mod: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18540
i seen your post which is why i asked about the hella lights. i was wondering if you had to cut the radiator support to make the hellas work or if u have to do any rewiring of the harness other than changing the plug or do the just plug in.

and i realize that those that have done it dont want everyone to do this mod just because they want theres to be one of a kind. the reason i asked for a write up is because i have two hella 90mm halogens for the hi's and two hella 90mm hid's for the lows. i can fiqure out how to mount them and make the headlight only go up half way but i was wanting my lows to stay on when i turned on the hi's just for the added light and that i dont know how to do or if it is even posible. but if you guys dont want to disclose your secrets about that i understand.
 

KeithH

New Member
Mar 31, 2005
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No cutting necessary of the rad support. The wiring will need slight modification - the H4 has 3 prongs that fit directly into the stock connector. You could make a custom connector to plug into the stock connector but you really should do the rewire and use relays to drive the lights so you get the best power possible.

The linkages from the motor to the headlight will have to be shortened to allow the headlight to still go up and down correctly.

A LOT of the headlight bucket itself will need to be cut away but you will still have enough left over to maintain full functionality of the bucket while still giving yourself enough room for even the low beam Hella 90mm projector.

I suggest picking up a spare set of headlight buckets from your favorite junk yard. That way you can hack things up without worring about going back to stock.
 

rodel

SoCal
May 19, 2005
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SoCal
mikes_88_supra;914525 said:
i seen your post which is why i asked about the hella lights. i was wondering if you had to cut the radiator support to make the hellas work or if u have to do any rewiring of the harness other than changing the plug or do the just plug in.

and i realize that those that have done it dont want everyone to do this mod just because they want theres to be one of a kind. the reason i asked for a write up is because i have two hella 90mm halogens for the hi's and two hella 90mm hid's for the lows. i can fiqure out how to mount them and make the headlight only go up half way but i was wanting my lows to stay on when i turned on the hi's just for the added light and that i dont know how to do or if it is even posible. but if you guys dont want to disclose your secrets about that i understand.


I have the 90mm setup that you described.

p914542_1.jpg


For the two hella 90mm to fit, you'll have to hack up the headlight housing. You don't need to cut the radiator support. I did not do my electrical work. A good source for electrical information in this forum would be Jetjock, send him a PM.
 

mikes_88_supra

New Member
Nov 5, 2007
158
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Missouri
KeithH;914540 said:
No cutting necessary of the rad support. The wiring will need slight modification - the H4 has 3 prongs that fit directly into the stock connector. You could make a custom connector to plug into the stock connector but you really should do the rewire and use relays to drive the lights so you get the best power possible.

The linkages from the motor to the headlight will have to be shortened to allow the headlight to still go up and down correctly.

A LOT of the headlight bucket itself will need to be cut away but you will still have enough left over to maintain full functionality of the bucket while still giving yourself enough room for even the low beam Hella 90mm projector.

I suggest picking up a spare set of headlight buckets from your favorite junk yard. That way you can hack things up without worring about going back to stock.

is it the just the rod that needs to be shortend or is it the arm to?
 

mikes_88_supra

New Member
Nov 5, 2007
158
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Missouri
KeithH;914604 said:
Here is the best method for rewiring (Everyone should do this before thinking they need to upgrade their lighting).

http://danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

thanks for that link it was actually really helpful but i do have one question as the link talked about two different types of lighting systems. which one do we have? is ours switched by both the ground and hot side or just the hot side?
 

KeithH

New Member
Mar 31, 2005
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I've heard that Japanese cars are typically Ground Switched. Can someone confirm - I don't have my elect manual with me at the office.
 

ill Z

Back on the Grind
Mar 18, 2007
109
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USA
KeithH;914509 said:
Please note that putting HID bulbs into a lens that was not designed for HID bulbs is illegal and will glare oncoming drivers.


That really depends on the light fixture that you perform the HID conversion on. On non HID projector foglamps/headlamps/driving lights yes that is very accurate statement. As far as open bulb fixtures I believe it depends on where the beam is angled.

I'm very curious how you guys are passing inspection with non DOT headlights? Is one reason because our cars are pre 96(I know they use diff inspection on pre 96 due to smog testing). I believe a certain 80's year also gets a less stringent form of state inspection. In most cases, also up the inspection station AFAIK.
 

rodel

SoCal
May 19, 2005
2,266
5
38
SoCal
KeithH;914602 said:
Both... because they work together. You need to change the middle pivot point (not the motor or the headlight end)

FYI, my headlights rise to 5/8ths of the full height just by adjusting the rod. Neither cutting of the rod nor changing the middle pivot point was required. I then used the Pivot brand "sleepy eye" controller to control how low the headlights go down when turned off.
 

KeithH

New Member
Mar 31, 2005
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The Headlight motor was made to make a full circle (open to closed). If you only adjust the rod then your lights will only open partially. But when you turn your lights off they will only close partially. Adding a pivot controller is fine and all but I've seen those working and the light still has to travel the full path - the headlight goes up (above your standard open height) and then down.

The proper way - and a bit less expensive actually - is to modify both the rod and the arm to change the middle pivot point. That way the headlight motors can still travel the full circle.

The sleepy eye controller was designed for those people that like driving with their headlights up a bit during the day.

The Pivot controller is fine and all if that is the route you choose. It might add stress to the motor however causing premature failures if it is making the motor travel one direction and then the other.