I am going to install the rebuilt core with new o-rings.
Should I go over board and use some Toyota RV sealant on the pipe where the o-ring is?
Should I go over board and use some Toyota RV sealant on the pipe where the o-ring is?
Heater Core O-ring Sealant?
- Thread starter landtoy80
- Start date
If you can get your hands on Silicone Orings use them, if not go Viton, and if no Viton and you have to go with stock, which is most likely plain old Buna Rubber, use Parker Oring Lube.
You can buy just about any size oring in just about any material at McMaster-Carr, they even have a material comparison chart showing chemical resitence and other info.
http://www.mcmaster.com/
You can buy just about any size oring in just about any material at McMaster-Carr, they even have a material comparison chart showing chemical resitence and other info.
http://www.mcmaster.com/
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On second guess, it might be a pain to get the sealant out of the tube if I have to fix it again...but if I have to do it again, its going to be all new OEM parts.
lol
Crazy as it sounds, I put my business' reputation on the line when I wrap o-rings with a layer of teflon. I'm a plumber. 80% of the time it holds water pressure at 60psi for extended(years) periods of time. Its usually a last ditch effort.
I personally had to do this on my heater core because if it aint toyota, you get only the core and no hardline extensions, clips or fresh o-rings.
I rigged a pressure tester that held positive, and currently drive around with the windows down and the heater on blast. LOVE IT.
Above is an example of the coincidental intersection of fortune and practicality and and in no way am telling people that they SHOULD do it.
Its me being cheap(autozone core) and not being able to get to the right size o-rings:3d_frown: at the hardware store...
Crazy as it sounds, I put my business' reputation on the line when I wrap o-rings with a layer of teflon. I'm a plumber. 80% of the time it holds water pressure at 60psi for extended(years) periods of time. Its usually a last ditch effort.
I personally had to do this on my heater core because if it aint toyota, you get only the core and no hardline extensions, clips or fresh o-rings.
I rigged a pressure tester that held positive, and currently drive around with the windows down and the heater on blast. LOVE IT.
Above is an example of the coincidental intersection of fortune and practicality and and in no way am telling people that they SHOULD do it.
Its me being cheap(autozone core) and not being able to get to the right size o-rings:3d_frown: at the hardware store...
Dave: LOL didn't realise you're an "Uphill/Downhill" (Plumber) 
I still wouldn't use Teflon there but that's just me (too big a job to get to it if it seeps)
I still wouldn't use Teflon there but that's just me (too big a job to get to it if it seeps)
Got the core in and it leaks:cry: I did add a little sealant to the o-ring. The rad shop said it was leaking at the pipe with the old o-ring. Should of had the shop retest with new o-rings.
I think it is leaking from the o-ring but will no know till I pull it apart. I had to work hard to get the driver side pipe though the fire wall and that might be way its leaking.
If its the joint where the o-ring is, is there any reason not to just silver seal the pipe to the core? If I do have to replace the core I will replace everything with OEM: core, pipes and o-rings.
I hate to admit it but in my frustration I added a bottle of BG cooling system sealer/stop leak.
I think it is leaking from the o-ring but will no know till I pull it apart. I had to work hard to get the driver side pipe though the fire wall and that might be way its leaking.
If its the joint where the o-ring is, is there any reason not to just silver seal the pipe to the core? If I do have to replace the core I will replace everything with OEM: core, pipes and o-rings.
I hate to admit it but in my frustration I added a bottle of BG cooling system sealer/stop leak.
So far the BG Universal Cooling System Sealer is holding up. No more coolant dripping down the foot throttle.
I know it's a pain, but please pull apart the dash and solder the ends into place on the heater core like IJ. says. BG sealer is only a band-aid and won't hold out forever.
When you do solder, there is technique to it very much like welding:
1) Clean surface, no foreign debris, oxidation, burs that will scratch the sealing surfaces upon assembly
2) Dry, not one drop of moisture, because it is important to heat up the joint evenly
3) Just hot enough, your not brazing these together, just getting the solder to leech into the gap just until it forms a drip on the bottom of the joint, it should uniformly be just visible in the seam, then remove the heat, gently Swipe away the drip with the flux brush, and don't disturb the assembly until cool.
Pointers:
The thicker the solder, the more heat you need.
Rosin core solder is nice for wire jobs, not metal surfaces.
Silver melts at a higher heat (600*F) than your typical tin mix (450*F)
60/40 Tin content is fine.
70-140 grit sand paper does a great job of removing oxidization. Too tight, sand some more, too loose, squeeze the outer joint a lil to oval it a touch.
A 1/2" pipe brush (with stiff metal bristles) to sand the inside of the joint.
Coat both surfaces light and evenly with flux, the flux forces out oxygen to draw in solder, too much makes the solder run.
You heat the surfaces, then apply the solder, or the solder will just continue to break off until the pipe is hot. What I mean is, you torch the pipe, then the pipe melts the solder.
Be comfortable and Take your time.
Soldering these together doesn't mean they are permanently assembled.
Next time you need to transfer the pipe, put a touch of flux over the joining seam, heat the area with the torch, *HOT* this time, and with two plyers twist the pieces apart, and while the solder on the pipe is still liquid, wipe it clean with a rag, re-sand it and its good for the next application.
Any questions?
When you do solder, there is technique to it very much like welding:
1) Clean surface, no foreign debris, oxidation, burs that will scratch the sealing surfaces upon assembly
2) Dry, not one drop of moisture, because it is important to heat up the joint evenly
3) Just hot enough, your not brazing these together, just getting the solder to leech into the gap just until it forms a drip on the bottom of the joint, it should uniformly be just visible in the seam, then remove the heat, gently Swipe away the drip with the flux brush, and don't disturb the assembly until cool.
Pointers:
The thicker the solder, the more heat you need.
Rosin core solder is nice for wire jobs, not metal surfaces.
Silver melts at a higher heat (600*F) than your typical tin mix (450*F)
60/40 Tin content is fine.
70-140 grit sand paper does a great job of removing oxidization. Too tight, sand some more, too loose, squeeze the outer joint a lil to oval it a touch.
A 1/2" pipe brush (with stiff metal bristles) to sand the inside of the joint.
Coat both surfaces light and evenly with flux, the flux forces out oxygen to draw in solder, too much makes the solder run.
You heat the surfaces, then apply the solder, or the solder will just continue to break off until the pipe is hot. What I mean is, you torch the pipe, then the pipe melts the solder.
Be comfortable and Take your time.
Soldering these together doesn't mean they are permanently assembled.
Next time you need to transfer the pipe, put a touch of flux over the joining seam, heat the area with the torch, *HOT* this time, and with two plyers twist the pieces apart, and while the solder on the pipe is still liquid, wipe it clean with a rag, re-sand it and its good for the next application.
Any questions?
I under stand that the BG is a band aid as was the shop fixing the heater core. The shop said they won't guaranty it won't leak due to its condition.
My plan was to just keep it together until work get busy again so I can pay cash for a new heater core and pipes.
The core had to be soldered in several places so I was not planing on it lasting very long.
My plan was to just keep it together until work get busy again so I can pay cash for a new heater core and pipes.
The core had to be soldered in several places so I was not planing on it lasting very long.