Head Bolt Re-torque in one afternoon

[NiGMa]

Hi guys, I've never done this before but I would like to give it a go, do you thinks its possible to do in one afternoon?

As far as I've read, all I need to do is:
1. Pray I don't mess something up
2. Remove the No. 1 & 2 cylinder head covers and whatever else to get them off.
3. Crack the bolts in the un-loosening direction(I assume this will be anti-clockwise) NOT WITH A TORQUE WRENCH
4. Tighten the bolts first to 58ft-lb, then 65ft-lb, then 72-75ft-lb, following the pattern in the TSRM.
5. Put the head covers back on with gasket maker(do I need a gasket or is RTV silicone gasket maker stuff enough?)
6. Put everything else back on.

Notes:
-make sure I only do this when the engine is stone cold.
-make sure I don't leave something nasty under the covers, I tend to drop things im holding. a screw or bolt wouldn't really go do a whole lot of good in there me thinks.
-wanna add any guys?????

 

[IJ.]

BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ WRONG......

You just need to back crack a bolt then retorque to the final spec.

you're NOT undoing it totally just releasing the initial tension on the bolt so you can get an accurate reading when you pull it back tight.

 

[NiGMa]

BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ WRONG......

You just need to back crack a bolt then retorque to the final spec.

you're NOT undoing it totally just releasing the initial tension on the bolt so you can get an accurate reading when you pull it back tight.

Yep, I understand that, thats what I meant. Does every other step seem ok? Am I missing something? can it be done by a newb in one afternoon?

 

[IJ.]

Well it's all ok EXCEPT for the part where you torque in stages it's not needed as you're only pulling 10 maybe 15 ft/lbs off the bolt before you retighten it.

As long as you don't break or lose anything yep you can do it easily in a day.

Where in Aus are you?

 

[NiGMa]

Well it's all ok EXCEPT for the part where you torque in stages it's not needed as you're only pulling 10 maybe 15 ft/lbs off the bolt before you retighten it.

As long as you don't break or lose anything yep you can do it easily in a day.

Where in Aus are you?

ok thanks.

I'm on the Gold Coast

 

[IJ.]

Doh I'm at the other end of the Country I was going to offer some help if you needed it

 

[JustAnotherVictim]

I'm not in Melbourne so you need to come help me Ian.

 

[Vsalvatierra86]

I have a question regarding this...when doing the head bolt-retorque should the engine be cold?

 

[souprat]

doesnt HAVE to be. but who wants to burn their hands?

 

[jdub]

I have a question regarding this...when doing the head bolt-retorque should the engine be cold?

Yes it needs to be cold...the aluminum head and steel block expand at different rates when hot. For an accurate/even clamping force on the HG, it's best if the motor is cold.

 

[Vsalvatierra86]

Ok thanks..
I just have one more question...
When you speak of back-crack the bolts(in my case studs) should I do this one by one and retorque one by one...or should i back-crack all on them first and the re-torque...?
I have mine torqued right now to 75lbs its a stock hg...should I go to 80lbs???

 

[jdub]

BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ WRONG......

You just need to back crack A bolt then retorque to the final spec.

you're NOT undoing it totally just releasing the initial tension on the bolt so you can get an accurate reading when you pull it back tight.

Torque to ARP stud spec...80 ft/lbs.

 

[JustAnotherVictim]

One at a time otherwise you have a greater chance of breaking the seal.

 

[Vsalvatierra86]

OK thank you..will do...
so 80lbs it is...

 

[Burntz]

idk about you, but if it was me. id gradually torque them down more, like 60, 68, 75, 80

just because to me, having one bolt at 80 on an old gasket.. is too big of a dif for me lol. id take my time and do it gradually

but thats just me

 

[IJ.]

idk about you, but if it was me. id gradually torque them down more, like 60, 68, 75, 80

just because to me, having one bolt at 80 on an old gasket.. is too big of a dif for me lol. id take my time and do it gradually

but thats just me

What are you talking about?

This is a RETORQUE so ALL the bolts are at 70+ ft/lbs already so you advocate backing them ALL off to under 60 so you can pull them up in steps?

Perfect way to end up with a leak

 

[Burntz]

no no i just meant if you are going from stock torque, to ARP specs, i wouldnt just pick the first bolt, break it, and torque directly to 80.

id torque it to 65 ish, do all the others, then to back to the first one, raise it to 75, etc.

id do it gradually

 

[NiGMa]

What are you talking about?

This is a RETORQUE so ALL the bolts are at 70+ ft/lbs already so you advocate backing them ALL off to under 60 so you can pull them up in steps?

Perfect way to end up with a leak

Well, in my case, I think they were only done at 58ft-lb. I've never torqued them, the shop I got the JDM motor from did it. I'm interested to find out what they are currently at. From what I've read, I can expect the ones near 5 and 6 cylinders to be quite loose.

 

[IJ.]

If it's at factory spec good chance that the HG is toast anyway

If it's not leaking now I'd say it's been pulled down to 70+ at some time over the last 15 years.

 

[NiGMa]

If it's at factory spec good chance that the HG is toast anyway

If it's not leaking now I'd say it's been pulled down to 70+ at some time over the last 15 years.

I've only had this motor for 2years, would it be possible that 58ft-lbs would last that long?

how long does it take to get corrosion on the block, I'm wondering if I should still drive the car.