Having serious blow by issues

[uncmk3nut]

I have a serious blow by problem in my crankcase ventilation system. It has already caused me a turbo and an AFM. I have one accordion hose blocked off, could that be a part of the problem? Now i have a serious oil leak also. I do have an OIL CATCH CAN on and no help. i have stock turbo, aftermarket intercooler, cheap manual boost controller pushing 10psi, and an A'Pexi Power intake for the engine upgrades and that's it. Any help or advice is wanted and appreciated. thanks for looking. Oh, I also had National Speed upgrade the head with a MLS Head gasket with a new gasket kit for the head.
I heard it could be something with the pistons or piston rings i think he said, plus he said something about valves or something, I know how to drive but not too keen on the mechanical part of the business. I do get my hands dirty with transmission swaps and such but not the technical stuff.

 

[uncmk3nut]

Okay I think I figured out the blow by issue; after plenty of research and one informative thread that I finally found. But I would still like to hear any solutions if you guys have any to offer up. thanks.

 

[limbodk]

Cheap small filters on most catch cans block and prevent pvc which results in oil getting past rings/vss. Free vent the catch can, if you still have issues after that its a bigger mechanical problem. If that fixes it replace the filters

 

[uncmk3nut]

I bought a cheap catch can off E-Bay and it's not vented. I guess meaning it doesn't have a place for a filter to go, just a drain hole at the bottom and two NIPPLES for the hoses to vent the crankcase, seems to be working but i haven't drove it enough yet so IDK 100% yet. I have one extra place for a hose on the intake accordion hose that I can't seem to figure if I should leave it open/vented or blocked off; will this cause a problem? Also, does anyone know how or if it's even possible to delete the crankcase hoses; the "y" hose going from the two finger size holes at the top of the valve covers to the throttle body then to the oil catch can or the way it's stock where it goes to the intake accordion hose? Is there anyway to delete these hoses and still have the crankcase vented with no problems?

 

[sheedy126]

youll definitely want those vented, especially with a boosted car. how do you have your catch can plumbed? it sounds like you just have your two ports on the valve covers connected to the two ports on the catch can and does go back into the accordion hose

youll want some sort of vacuum just like the factory PCV system. without a good working PCV system you can have smoke, blowing seals out, and gunk in the engine.
ive heard of going through turbos and then main bearings from a poorly working pcv system here on the forum somewhere awhile back.

 

[uncmk3nut]

Talk about hitting the nail on the head. I think 90% of the words you just stated, Sheedy126, is absolutely right about what has happened to my car. The car is smoking out of the tail pipe a lot for some reason since this started (I'm sure one of you guys knows)the smoke is both white and bluish white/grey before I finally stopped driving it. I know white is coolant and blue is oil burning and even after that really expensive head job I think I still had oil in I think two of the spark plug galleys (mostly #2 galley). I got the head job done so all smoke went away til this problem and since it smoked more toward the end kind of bluish: Firstly the only expensive turbo i could ever afford goes before anything else, there could've been other signs before it went but I didn't know any better or even the bad signs to warn were way to subtle for my knowledge of turbo motors to catch because of a little bit of bluish smoke I can't see b/c I'm by myself in that car and b/c that supra is meticulously maintained I'm surprised this is the first I've ran into crankcase issues if it's prevalent in old engines, also, it took an Afm with it, now it blew a seal or two but i finally caught this before my other turbo goes cuz even though I've only driven not even 5 times with the new one and probably only 5 or less miles on the motor with new turbo and afm. I haven't drove it since it started this blow by and I mean I checked all the time for oil in the intake and intercooler hoses. However as far as how the can is plumbed: It still is the original little ventilation set-up ya know, the str8 hose coming from the throttle body then splits to the 'y' and after the hose starts to run alongside the motor I inserted the new hose running to the catch can then the exit hose runs str8 to the middle or second hose coming out of the intake/accordion hose. Should the exit hose be going into the accordion hose anyway? How would I create that good suction on the inlet of the can or outlet? I would love to ditch the whole set-up with an alternate way of releasing the crankcase pressure from the 7mgte...

 

[uncmk3nut]

Is there turbos out there with extra plumbing for ventilation of a similar situation? I know the turbo has the oil plumbing with the coolant plumbing, but does anyone know of turbos with more plumbing or is this just unnecessary all together? I tend to think weird I guess b/c IDK if this good or bad idea.

 

[uncmk3nut]

I do know i'm doing everything I can to make my 7mgte rev higher ( and I know that for some reason this 7mgte isn't as good as the 7mge at high revs but it makes no mind to me.). I was young 8 maybe 9yrs ago and bought a low mileage jdm 7m and for the life of me I think it's a 91 from a Chaser or Soarer or whatever they put these engines in over there. Point being is if it's not a 91 it could be any year really but the car is an 87. I know or heard that from before 1989.5 has the 7m's got 6m crankshafts and 89.5+ all of the newest 7m's built til 92 got actual 7m crankshafts. 7m has got to be a better crankshaft since I've never heard of a broken or even a bent stock 7m crankshaft. Will balancing and making the crankshaft lighter get a decent gain in rpm speed and capacity? then lighter pulleys? Camshaft adjust-ability? I know gear ratio comes in to play but I have yet to figure that out yet. Sorry for all the info at once no need to answer everything, but I would like to know if anything about my questions posted here are right or on the right track with the car. After all, if everyone on here is here b/c they love mk3 Supra's? Then help this guy out and there will be one more sick mk3 on the streets..

 

[uncmk3nut]

Okay enough of pipe dreams about making the 7m rev higher. I want to know if I got the oil catch can plumbed right? What I can do to completely fix my PCV so it does its job correctly? Also, should I vent the can myself somehow? I can't afford a nice one (real one). Im talking where is the love for other Supra fans? I get more love on the Honda forums with my EX! Which is just sad to me cause I am much prouder of my Toyota's then my Honda's...

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

http://www.turboninjas.com/mk3supra/

Go to the emission control system section for a diagram to plumb it correctly. Get on the for sale forums here and buy stock parts you may need to complete the job. Install them, and see if that fixes your issues.

 

[uncmk3nut]

i have looked for a new PCV set-up but nada.. I also cleaned the crap out of the old one, so it's clean in my opinion which has always been good enough b/c I'm such an OCD freak. Okay now I have the family mechanic saying that when I sent it to National Speed for the head gasket job they must not have put certain gaskets/o-rings or something like that back in the right places and it's causing my problems. Does anyone know what he is talking about? And would that actually cause the problems I'm having?

 

[uncmk3nut]

I would like to also know how many areas in the front of the engine can leak oil? Not talking about the top but just the front; I know there is the cam seals, oil pump gasket, front main seal, front of oil pan, and I'm thinking that's it.?? B/C this mysterious blow by has blow some major seals causing it to leak down the front of the engine while the engine is running; which was never been the case before this problem.

 

[uncmk3nut]

They should just stop the ability to make new threads. No one answers them when they are actually important. The only useful info on here is what has been written ten years ago. This whole time of 11 years of owning all my Toyota's not one helpful answer to any of my threads and I've made at least 100 threads too (counting all the forums I've joined and they're all the same). For someone reading this and is new to forums; don't try to get answers from other members. You have to use the search feature for a good year or two to find what you are looking for. Then if you are motivated you will have to learn how to fix and diagnose the problems yourself. If that isn't an option don't waste your time on here just take it to a specialist on your car and learn firsthand. You will learn more from a mechanic than 5 years of searching on here. Also, if you don't take the option of fixing the problems yourself then get ready to spend a lot of money to get what you want.

 

[adampecush]

1. A catch can will only collect oil if there is air going in, and air going out. See photo below. Note, hoses go from valve covers to can, can to pre-turbo. The can has baffles to help condense the oil. I also have a PCV valve from a DSM in the valve cover to maintain crankcase vacuum, tied into the intake manifold, but it is not shown in this photo)

2. Out the front of the engine, you can leak from the cam seals, the crank seal, the oil pump shaft seal, the head gasket, and the oil pan. If your PCV system is buggered and/or you are building excessive crankcase pressure, you will blow oil out of your rotating seals, that is almost guaranteed.

In short, you need to pull a slight vacuum on the crankcase under vacuum. PCV is all about flow.

Also, based on personal experience, broken ringlands on a piston will cause major blowby. You can find this with a compression test. If one or more cylinders are around 100 psi, well, it is rebuild time.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

So between you, your family mechanic, and National Speed has anyone performed a leakdown, or even a compression test? Get those results first and see if you're working with a healthy engine to start with. Can you post a video of what it's doing?
If you can't work on and diagnose your own car then it's really hard help you.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

OMG!!!1!!1 you're like the worst person to reply to because i'm not getting an immediate response from you they should somehow stop you from posting because you only come in here when you want an immediate answer i can't believe i responded to you and its been a whole three days and you haven't replied back i've owned my supra for 20 years this year and its all the same with you toyota forum noobs that come in here wanting everything from us asking 20 questions and when decent advice is given you noobs dont respond result back or even acknowledge that we said something to you OMG like are we nobody here are we all at your beck and call we are doing what we can to make this like the Honda community you so cherish all we ask from you is to respond to us immediately like you want from us fuck punctuation