Got my new drinking well drilled today. "Life is Good!!!"

[Who]

This is way off topic but I just had to post this. I feel like I just discovered buried treasure in my backyard. For the last 5 years I have been dealing with a drinking well contaminated with salt, TDS of 1750 to be exact. Due to lack of funds I was unable to drill a new well. In the last few months my dishwasher rusted, my washing machine broke, my ice maker got a leak in it. If I washed the cars I had to dry them immediately or it or it would leave salt over the paint. The dog didn't even want to drink the water. Mind you when I first moved to the house my water was so soft that I could leave water on the cars after washing them with no water spots left behind. Obviously I had to do something. Yahoo!!! as of today I have clear, clean water 90 ft down from the Florida aquifer with a TDS of 450 vs 1750 and less than 1 parts iron. We take things for granted in the USA and good clean water is one of them.

 

[gaboonviper85]

Tits!!!

 

[IJ.]

How does the water get from the well to the house?
(forgive my ignorance but lived my entire life in the city and about to move to the country so curious about such things)

 

[flight doc89]

most well setups have 2 pumps and tank. Whenever the tank is below a certain level, the well pump kicks on to refill the tank. The second pump keeps the line to the house plumbing slightly pressurized. So that the second pump is not kicking on and off constantly, and therefore stressing the pump and the plumbing, there is a pressure tank that maintains a constant water pressure

If you don't have a large water demand, you can also have just the well pump and have it flow directly into a large pressure tank, but you run a greater risk of running out of water at time.

 

[Who]

How does the water get from the well to the house?
(forgive my ignorance but lived my entire life in the city and about to move to the country so curious about such things)

My system uses one pump and one pressure tank. You have a 90 foot pipe to the surface, a check valve, piping to the pump, a pump with a pressure switch that turns on when the pressure drops below 30psi and off at 50psi and a pressurized holding tank like flight doc89 explained above. The holding tank has a bladder inside filled with air to about 27psi or about 3psi below your low side pump pressure switch. The pump turns on and pressurizes the system to about 50psi and then turns off. When you turn on the faucet or run a bath the water pressure slowly drops until the pump kicks on at 30psi and cycles off when it reaches 50psi. The pump can fill the pressurized bladder tank faster than you can run the water and that way the pump motor takes a break from time to time. You really don't notice a change in pressure in the house at all. If you have a high demand of water or you want more pressure you get a bigger pump (1.5 hp vs 1.0 hp) but you have to size the pressure tank up as well. I learned the hard way that bigger isn't always better. If your pressure tank is to small for the pump you end up cycling the pump motor on and off and you burn up the motor. Another thing to consider on pump size is the fact that when you live in the country and you have a extended power outage due to a hurricane for instance you are last on the list for getting your power back. It takes a 7500 watt fuel sucking pig of a generator to start up a 1.5 hp pump vs a 1.0 hp pump on a 5000 watt generator. Ok I'm rambling now....More than you ever wanted to know about water.

 

[IJ.]

LMAO ramble away I've learned something new and important thanks guys

 

[MKIIINA]

only driled to 90 ft? we drill to 5000 for a SHALLOW well (granted we are an oil company so slight difference...)

j/k man. Congrats! The best water I ever had was in PA from a well.... doesnt compare to city water...