good old 50cent map clamp

[525gte]

So for those of us with out standalones. Have any of you tryd this map clamp trick to raise or eliminate your fuel cut on a 1j ..
Here is the link if you have not seen this http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_map.html

So I am contenplating on trying this and just controlling boost with the saftey features on my true boost. And controlling fuel with the afc. What are your thought and does it work? I don't see any reason why I wouldn't work. I already have the diaods in my garage and they keep telling me to put them in..(don't act like your parts don't talk to you either.)lol

 

[te72]

I wouldn't do it to my car... It's rarely a good idea to "trick" your fuel system.

 

[ifyouaint1sturlast]

It's rarely a good idea to "trick" your fuel system.

Agreed.

A lot of times you are changing many other things without realizing it. Like timing..

 

[525gte]

I wouldn't do it to my car... It's rarely a good idea to "trick" your fuel system.

well i get that. and that is all the safc2, and a fcd does also. yeah the timing thing is the only thing that scares me to do this. and thier is a limit of how much boost you can make and still have it safe on the timing side

so you both say no, and i do agree with you. but what are other options for lifting fuel cut to a higher level?

 

[kotu100]

Maft pro, AEM, MS3, pro efi, etc...
Theres the cheap way, and the right way.

 

[ifyouaint1sturlast]

All of the piggybacks that do not control timing (SAFC, MAFT without the mod, etc) are just as dangerous as the resistor mod (IMO).

Slight adjustments are okay, but if you're going for a huge change I would get a standalone or a piggyback that controls timing.

 

[te72]

Does the 2jz map sensor allow higher boost levels before the stock ecu will cut the fuel? I've never looked into it, mine allows up to ~17-18psi before hitting fuel cut, but I've never been in a hurry to kill my turbos, so I kept it around 12-15psi.

 

[Albert]

Ohhhhh geez. Here comes another 1jz vs 2jz map sensor thread.

Answer is no

 

[ifyouaint1sturlast]

They are both .. 1.5 bar?

 

[525gte]

Ohhhhh geez. Here comes another 1jz vs 2jz map sensor thread.

Answer is no

haha you beat me to it.. im not looking to running 30 psi or nothing crazy, but what about 18 -20. see i dont know where it will think its at as far as the timing goes = to boost level. i would think it would think it was at 14psi. cuz right now i hit cut at 14.7psi.
also would changing to a 2 or 3 bar fix this issue?

 

[525gte]

All of the piggybacks that do not control timing (SAFC, MAFT without the mod, etc) are just as dangerous as the resistor mod (IMO).

Slight adjustments are okay, but if you're going for a huge change I would get a standalone or a piggyback that controls timing.

this is just something i was wanting to learn more about. im planning to switching to a aem next winter.
i like to start learning threads. i get tired of the help me fix this help me fix that thread. although im also guilty of this

 

[te72]

Ohhhhh geez. Here comes another 1jz vs 2jz map sensor thread.

Answer is no

Thanks for correcting me sir, I've never needed to look into it since my car hits fuel cut right at the "you're gonna blow some twins" level...

 

[525gte]

so on the topic of changing the map sensor to a 3bar.. keep in mind boost levels will be round 18ish.. correct me if im wrong, but it would be safer to wire in a map clamp, than to change to a 3 bar? right. cuz on the timing side of things. with the clamp wired in it would be at pulling timing at a level of where it would make 14.5 psi vs the 3 bar making 18 psi it would think it was at somewhere around 9 or 10 psi due to the differance in voltage ..??? right???? i know the numbers may be wrong but i think the idea is correct?

 

[ifyouaint1sturlast]

Just because your MAP can read up to 3bar does not mean the ECU has maps for that ..

 

[525gte]

Right .but that's not what I'm saying I know the stock ecu will not run 28psi. I just basing it on what the computer would do to the timing at a certing map voltage. Again just making numbers up but say at 14.5psi stock map makes 5v. That same boost on the 3 bar would be like 2.5v is that thought process correct

 

[525gte]

I came across this tread on another board that got me thinking bout this a little
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/3-bar-map-questions.224813/

 

[te72]

Ask yourself one question, and be honest with yourself:

"is a few more HP worth the risk of blowing my engine?"

What happens when things don't work out like you "think" they should based on something you've read online? I'll give you a hint, it's not good.

 

[steven89]

Ohhhhh geez. Here comes another 1jz vs 2jz map sensor thread.

Answer is no

Yep, they're VERY similar. Found this info when I was looking for a replacement MAP sensor for my 1jz, ended up with a 2jz MAP sensor after seeing the similarity between the two.

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/te...sor-pressure-vs-output-voltage-identical.html

Pic from the link.

And as you can see, the map sensors read different voltages at different pressures. So a 3bar map would have a different reading at 2 bar, from what a 2 bar map would have at 2 bar.

Also, isnt this diode basically what a Fuel Cut Defender does? FCD's are basically adjustable signal clamps, right?

 

[525gte]

To the best of my knowledge yes they are. But that's why I started this thread pretty much

 

[JPsToyota]

Also, isnt this diode basically what a Fuel Cut Defender does? FCD's are basically adjustable signal clamps, right?

I read a long time ago before I put my home-made setup together that the Greddy BCC uses a clamping voltage (good), but others (possibly HKS FCD or other cheaper ones?) may actually scale voltage therefore changing the MAP output through the whole range(bad).

I had a Zener diode setup on my 1JZ, clamping somewhere around 4.3xV IIRC. Accomplishes the same thing as an $80+ used Greddy BCC but without the adjustability (Don't need it, you just want it as close to the boost cut voltage as possible. Though you can find an adjustable wiring schematic out there). Just make sure you wire it correctly and cleanly, I had mine right next to the MAP sensor itself. It is not a dangerous or crappy method as compared to a BCC, though it will save you a lot of money.