I am looking for a good clutch setup to use with a mostly stock 1jz. (I know any 7m gte clutch will work) But i am trying to find one that isnt built like shit and will last me a long time with occasional racing, maybe a stg 2 clutch kit. I'm on a budget and its hard to find anything under $500, i was looking at the clutch kits on ebay, does anybody have any experience with them or what clutch i should get? Thanks.
good clutch?
- Thread starter Ds650rida
- Start date
Ds650rida said:
Heard many guys on here raving about stock clutch with a heavy duty PP.. That's what I was thinking of doing, but I think I'm going to go with an ACT 6 puck because all the drifters are pushing me into it haha. Anyhow, you can get a heavy duty PP through small clutch re-manufacturers etc for pretty decent prices. I guess I'll have to leave the hot linking to others that will reply to this.
I have essentially the same mods most likely (BPU), DP, FMIC, Intake, Injectors, AFC.
I'm BPU using a stock clutch and doing fine, but when I go single, I'm looking at all new stock clutch parts with an ACT 6 puck.
well i definatly need a new clutch because when i took the 7m out it had the original clutch on it with over 180000 miles on it. so it was fairly thrashed. But it did still hold up pretty well the problem was the throw out bearing made a noise cuz it was moving around so much.
does anyone have any links to where i can get some stock components with just a clutch disk? I wasnt too sure about using different clutch parts (i.e act clutch disk with stock pp) would it fit into the stock pressure plate without any modifications?
does anyone have any links to where i can get some stock components with just a clutch disk? I wasnt too sure about using different clutch parts (i.e act clutch disk with stock pp) would it fit into the stock pressure plate without any modifications?
Ds650rida said:
You have it backwards.. you'd do a OE 7m clutch and like an ACT Pressure Plate (or whoever as long as its heavy duty). PP being the important factor. I've never really beat on the stock clutch and I honestly dont really trust it and the street discs, heavy PP or not are mostly the same price as the ACT 6 pucks so I never saw the point.
ACT 6 puck and PP ftw..
Exactly, clutches don't hold power, pressure plates to. An aftermarket clucth is only going to hold up to more abuse, that's about it.Dylan JZ said:
Stock clutch + aftermarket PP = holds lots of power
Aftermarket clutch + aftermarket PP = holds lots of power and takes lots of abuse
aftermarket clutch + stock PP = don't bother
I was looking at the stage 2's on drift motion, maybe aaron can give me some input on this thread about the details of them.
Ive got a RPS 3200 PP with a 6-puck disk. Very happy with it and I believe you can put them together for around $500ish maybe a little more. Only thing to remember is to disable your clutch start switch when you install a heavy duty pressure plate (especially the RPS 3200). This will prolong the life of your thrust washers.
how do you disable the clutch start switch? is it just a wire that you cut? where is it located?
back on topic, i have a spec stage 2 clutch on mine and its been great. pressure plate is rated to hold over 400 torque and its very streetable, as it uses a kevlar full face disc. pretty inexpensive too, $350-400.
i have run in to one occurance with it though in the year i've had it. it was the night i ran that 12.9, we were slipping the clutch as much as possible off the line and busting out 1.8 60ft's with maybe 350hp and 4000lbs, doing multiple runs, and it did fine at the track, but on the way home, if i went full throttle, as soon as it made peak torque ~4000rpm, it would start slipping BAD. i also had a passenger on the way home and figured the flywheel and clutch were just really hot, so i took it easy the rest of the way and once it cooled, i haven't had any problems since.
hope that helps your clutch buying decision!
back on topic, i have a spec stage 2 clutch on mine and its been great. pressure plate is rated to hold over 400 torque and its very streetable, as it uses a kevlar full face disc. pretty inexpensive too, $350-400.
i have run in to one occurance with it though in the year i've had it. it was the night i ran that 12.9, we were slipping the clutch as much as possible off the line and busting out 1.8 60ft's with maybe 350hp and 4000lbs, doing multiple runs, and it did fine at the track, but on the way home, if i went full throttle, as soon as it made peak torque ~4000rpm, it would start slipping BAD. i also had a passenger on the way home and figured the flywheel and clutch were just really hot, so i took it easy the rest of the way and once it cooled, i haven't had any problems since.
hope that helps your clutch buying decision!
Look at the clutch pedal assembly. There should be a smal switch with 2 wires going to it. I believe you can simply pull the wires off the switch, and that'll disable it.claytonio disastro said: