Fuel feed line removal at tank?

jtran8

Supramania Contributor
Mar 29, 2007
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wichita kansas
2 years ago ,some one on this forum had the same problem as yours , i thought it was pain so i went different way and it piece of cake. and yes you'll see pictures up here about 16 hours from now. If remove fuel tank is all you want then that is what i'm talking about. you don't have to disconnect fuel lines or fuel filter any thing. just wait for my pictures.
 
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mkIIIman089

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
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Ohio
Well, I'm still interested in seeing what you've got, but I sucessfully got it off the filter with a 1/2 drive socket wrench. Lost some blood from when it broke free, and was covered in gas less then 1 second later, but thats OK... I got it off. I thought for sure it would shear the face off the filter just before it broke free from how hard I was pushing on it.

Like I said though, I still would like to see what you've got.
 

2543arvin

Moving to Japan!!!
Nov 30, 2006
879
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Jacksonville, NC
jtran8 said:
2 years ago ,some one on this forum had the same problem as yours , i thought it pain so i went different way and it piece of cake. and yes you'll see pictures up here about 16 hours from now.


Well, Im always up for learning new tricks to make things easier....now you have me interested...
 

jtran8

Supramania Contributor
Mar 29, 2007
199
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wichita kansas
My mistake guys . now i remember my thread on 5-24-2007 what i did was disconnect the fuel return line by remove clamp and pull the hose of . For that fuel feed line , i untighten fuel filter inlet bolt and pull whole thing off ; that's what i did . sorry! i guess i don't need to take pictures.
 

MassSupra89

Almost done.
Nov 3, 2005
1,707
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MA
That clears things up. I was watching this thread thinking "Someone must have raped the fuel lines on his car" then doubting myself thinking if there were an easy way to do this I'm gonna be pissed I missed it. lol
 

2543arvin

Moving to Japan!!!
Nov 30, 2006
879
0
0
Jacksonville, NC
jtran8 said:
My mistake guys . now i remember my thread on 5-24-2007 what i did was disconnect the fuel return line by remove clamp and pull the hose of . For that fuel feed line , i untighten fuel filter inlet bolt and pull whole thing off ; that's what i did . sorry! i guess i don't need to take pictures.

Thats what I was thinking that you were talking about...
 

Jaguar_5

It's ALIVE!
Feb 7, 2006
1,468
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Seattle
Going back to your first post, good reference if you ever need to get a really stuck line / bolt off. Use one of those brake line wrenches if you can get it in the right size, the ones that grab more than just 2 sides, they wrap around about 320 degrees, wrap a layer of low grit sandpaper around the fitting, don't overlap any unless it's really rounded, then squeeze the wrench on, and give it a good hit with a hammer! Ghetto impact-wrench effect :)
 

shaeff

Kurt is FTMFW x2!!!!
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Mar 30, 2005
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colin,

you bent the metal line going to the tank? it's the rubber line's fitting you should be putting pressure on, not the metal one. (as in, just hold the metal one still, and twist the nut on the rubber line if i remember correctly)

i soaked mine in PB blast for days before even attempting it, along with the filter mounting bolts, and filter- line bolts. everything came out easily. (and it was all rusty, too)

edit: 23901- the nut on the end of that hose is supposed to spin, not the fitting on the metal line from the tank. (if i remember correctly from when i did mine- it's been a while)
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=2211&P=3

-shaeff
 

Slow66

I think with my dipstick
Apr 3, 2005
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Newington, CT
Chris,

That is correct. The "bigger" nut coming from the tank is supposed to stay stationary, and the line going to it is the one all the force should be applied to. Of course its the one easier to round off too :)
 

mkIIIman089

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
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Ohio
shaeff - It twisting wasn't intentional, I was just using every ounce of effort I could and it wound up twisting a tiny bit.

I was able to get the line off the filter, and I just decided to leave the connection I was initially talking about alone. Turned out to be much easier that way. Also, on a side note, the 23901 > tank connection wasn't really rusted at all, in fact it looked quite clean... but seized together.

Anyway, I got my Walbro in, its all buttoned up. I also was able to swap out all of my external (save for lisence plate illumination, and head lamps obviously) lights over to LED bulbs; which turned out much better then I actually expected it to. I need to work out a small issue with the new turn signal flasher and the tail light warning on the dash...

Now it's time for sleep. LOL.
 

shaeff

Kurt is FTMFW x2!!!!
Staff member
Super Moderator
Mar 30, 2005
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good to hear. :)

for the turn signals, i think that superbrightleds.com has a flasher unit that'll take care of inconsistant/too fast flashing.

or you could just wire it yourself. :)

-shaeff
 

mkIIIman089

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
3,061
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36
Ohio
Thats actually where I got all the bulbs for this setup. I found what the problem was. I'll begin by saying the flasher unit they give you is substantially larger then the stock unit, which I knew. Now, in my hurrying I didn't realize that the base of the stock flasher just slides off of the panel it plugs in to, and I was trying to just put the new flasher on top of the old base section. This gave it poor contact with the pins and created the funky inconsistent flashing. Once I took the original base off, I was able to get the pins fully engaged in the panel and it works very nicely now. Even clicks just like stock!

Now I'm just trying to find if there is an easier way to make the tail light warning on the dash not illuminate then by simply pulling the bulb out.