Fuel cut

[Another MkIII]

So here is the deal. I know that to eliminate fuel cut, people who go the Lexus AFM route recommend doing at least the following:
Walbro 255LPH pump
Lexus AFM
RC 550cc injectors
On top of that, most people will recommend:
Aeromotive AFPR
Apex AFC (or something along those lines)
Wideband AF gauge

I already have the Lex AFM and the 550's will be on the way by the end of the week. I also need to get a boost controller. I have a few questions:
First, can I run safely with just the Lex AFM, 550's, and Walbro pump? Or will I most likely experience cylinder wash?
Second, I'm also considering getting a MAFT pro. On speed density, this would eliminate the need for the AFM I'm assuming. I'm not really familiar with tuning, so would the Apex be a better choice? Also, with a MAFT Pro, will I still need to get a wideband A/F gauge? I searched and as near as I can tell, I won't need to, but I was kinda confused. Maybe more than 4 hours of sleep would help, lol.
Thank you for taking the time to answer these questions.
-AM3

 

[CajunKenny]

You can safely run the Lexus AFM, 550's, and a Walbro. The Lexus AFM is 25% more air and the 550's are 25% more fuel. That's why that works. This WILL NOT eliminate fuel cut. It raises it.

If you're not running an aftermarket AFPR with you walbro 255, then be sure to drill out your J-Tube.

You can run the Maft Pro in two modes. AFC Mode and Speed Density Mode. Speed Density mode eliminates the AFM.

The first ingredient when tuning is a Wideband. There's no way around it, you need one. Even with the Maft Pro.

In my opinion, the Maft Pro is a better way to go because it probably has the most options out there as far as piggybacks go. It's about as close to a standalone as you can get.

 

[Another MkIII]

You can safely run the Lexus AFM, 550's, and a Walbro. The Lexus AFM is 25% more air and the 550's are 25% more fuel. That's why that works. This WILL NOT eliminate fuel cut. It raises it.

If you're not running an aftermarket AFPR with you walbro 255, then be sure to drill out your J-Tube.

You can run the Maft Pro in two modes. AFC Mode and Speed Density Mode. Speed Density mode eliminates the AFM.

The first ingredient when tuning is a Wideband. There's no way around it, you need one. Even with the Maft Pro.

In my opinion, the Maft Pro is a better way to go because it probably has the most options out there as far as piggybacks go. It's about as close to a standalone as you can get.

That's what I meant. Raise, not eliminate. Maybe I should sleep before asking questions, lol.
I know about the speed density, which is probably what I would do if I bought a MAFT pro, since I could sell my Lex AFM then.
http://www.maftpro.com/tproinfo.shtml
At the bottom of the page where it says sensor monitor:

AFR - A/F Ratio, if a wideband is connected.

What do they mean by that?
-AM3

 

[CajunKenny]

http://www.maftpro.com/tproinfo.shtml
At the bottom of the page where it says sensor monitor:

What do they mean by that?
-AM3

They're referring to the sensor monitor page within the maft pro. On that page you can view data from all of the inputs listed in that block.

They're saying that if you have a wideband connected, you can view your afr's in real time. That data can also be logged and displayed in the Tunerpro Program that the maft pro uses.

 

[Another MkIII]

They're referring to the sensor monitor page within the maft pro. On that page you can view data from all of the inputs listed in that block.

They're saying that if you have a wideband connected, you can view your afr's in real time. That data can also be logged and displayed in the Tunerpro Program that the maft pro uses.

So I wouldn't need the gauge then, just the wideband sensor, correct?
-AM3

 

[CajunKenny]

So I wouldn't need the gauge then, just the wideband sensor, correct?
-AM3

Correct. If you wanted to run it that way anyway.

Watching your AFR's is much eaiser with the gauge than trying to watch the maft screen or even a laptop. You'll want your eyes on the road as much as possible.

With a gauge, you can glance at it and quickly see what your afr's are doing. That's pretty important because if you see they're getting lean for whatever reason, you'll know and can shut it down before the big KABOOM!

It's very risky to not know what your afr's are doing.

I would not run without a gauge!

 

[Another MkIII]

Correct. If you wanted to run it that way anyway.

Watching your AFR's is much eaiser with the gauge than trying to watch the maft screen or even a laptop. You'll want your eyes on the road as much as possible.

With a gauge, you can glance at it and quickly see what your afr's are doing. That's pretty important because if you see they're getting lean for whatever reason, you'll know and can shut it down before the big KABOOM!

It's very risky to not know what your afr's are doing.

I would not run without a gauge!

I understand what you're saying. The PO put a narrowband in it, so I basically have an FTL light show. Another question: Will my AF gauge work with a wideband sensor, or are there differences in both the gauge and sensor with a wideband vs narrowband?
-AM3

 

[CajunKenny]

Narrow band is 0-1v and Wide band is 0-5v. The gauges and sensors are not cross compatible.

My car came with a narrow band also. I removed it and put an AEM in it's place.

In my searching, Zankoku has the best price on them.