Ok everyone I have recently put a gt35r turbo on my car. Look up my build thread for all the mods. At what point do we need to upgrade to a piggyback, maft, or stand alone system?I keep getting a code 31 and 34. Any advice is always welcome I have an emanage ready to put in the car but want to see how far the stock stuff can really go. I am getting another maf to try but I don't think that is the problem just yet.
Fuel cut with gt35r
- Thread starter nick rossow
- Start date
If you are running a stock afm then you'll fuel cut like a sob! The stock afm will net you about 260hp give or take....the stock ct26 will cause fuel cut at ruffly 8 pounds....your gt is way way to big for the stock afm...a piggyback won't help you much at all unless you go with the lex upgrade with all supporting mods!
The gt will get you in the 500hp range with proper mods...that gt wouldn't be fun with stock setup I'd imagine.
The gt will get you in the 500hp range with proper mods...that gt wouldn't be fun with stock setup I'd imagine.
Yeah I have the lex housing, 550's, afpr, and a walbro pump so I think I am good in the fuel section. I have a set of BC cams also but wanna get the car running good with the stock ones without problems and then I will swap them in with some cam gears.
If you want help, YOU need to provide US with what's already done to the car.
A good way to deter help is to tell us to "look up my build thread." If you're too lazy to post what's done to your car, how can you expect us to want to look up your build thread? :nono:
Read: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19859
A good way to deter help is to tell us to "look up my build thread." If you're too lazy to post what's done to your car, how can you expect us to want to look up your build thread? :nono:
Read: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19859
standalone ofcourse would be the best. Or you can use mapecu and throw afm away. I have gt35 and mapecu2 now and run on 17.4 psi. The car runs very well and no fuelcut.
You should get something to controll boost and feul with.
You should get something to controll boost and feul with.
Shaeff I get what you are saying but I am using my phone to post up right now. I will post the link up when I can get to a computer. I have a full emanagE setup sitting in the house along with the profec E-01 boost controller that can be linked together.
black89t;1393415 said:
yea, quite a bit on the low side. No AFM will cut at the same as another from what i understand but the lex is ~25% larger and people push over 400whp with them w/o too many issues. Lets assume the intake volume to power relationship is linear for simplification purposes so thats ~325whp on the stocker.
And for those who are confused, no the math is not wrong.
Code 31 is fixed. Also found a code 22 and repaired that as well. I am getting a code 34 now which is abnormal boost pressure. Checked for air leaks and none found. I hit fuel cut before I even hit 1psi of boost.
code 34 Diagnosis
* The turbocharger pressure is abnormal.
Trouble Area
* Turbocharger
* Air flow meter
* ECU
* Intercooler system
* The turbocharger pressure is abnormal.
Trouble Area
* Turbocharger
* Air flow meter
* ECU
* Intercooler system
The issue is that remember, the AFM does not read pressure it reads flow.
Now with your mods, it should not fail that quickly so
have you PRESSURE tested the system?
Now with your mods, it should not fail that quickly so
have you PRESSURE tested the system?
Yes I know what the code 34 is. I pressure tested the system to 30 psi with no problems found. That was the first thing I did when the fuel cut started. All wiring has been checked to the ecu also.
nick rossow;1400015 said:
No problems found as in how long did the pressure hold time wise?
If there is no pressure loss at all. AFM electronics are screwy.
i have another afm on the way. i will do an ohm check on it in the morning as i have been having problems related to the AFM. pressure held for about a minute, i dont have my boost leak tester hooked up to a regulator just a tire valve in the pcv piping for the tester. i only found one leak and that was at the TB but that was repaired.
ohms will only tell you the IAT sensor built into the afm sensor housing. shave some insulation off the ks and E1 wires at the sensor plug and measure Hz. Warm idle should be 25hz or so and should rise smoothly with rpms.