From stock to mild upgrade territory....

[Kai]

Okay - now that my Supe is finally almost ready to be driven once again, after almost a year off the road, i've been doing some window shopping for upgrades.

I'm not looking for a mad mental spec - i'd like to keep it driveable. I'm not planning on doing 1/4 miles either.

Spec so far:

Stock + 20 thou overbore, Ceramic Topped Pistons (still cast, but better than stock replacements), 7thou skim on the head, new valve seats, New thrust washers, new water pump, new coolant hoses (thanks IJ!), ARP Head Studs.

HKS T-16 Exhaust, HKS Turbo Elbow, Blitz Dump Valve, Fensport Front & Rear Discs, Pagid Fast Road Pads, TEIN HR Coilovers, 17" Matrix Shadow Alloys.

Parts being considered:

RPS Sport Clutch (420lb/ft rated)
Fidanza Alloy Flywheel
Jawsgear Single Piece Alloy Propshaft
3.91:1 Early Turbo LSD

ENKEI JS+M 17" x 7.5 Alloys
Bridgestone Potenza Tyres

HKS VPC + 550cc Chip OR MAP ECU
RC 550cc Injectors + Clips
IS300 Coils (For TooKwik's COP Setup)
Walbro 255lph Pump
Aeromotive AFPR

Koyo Radiator (Keeping Stock TVF Unit - not going electric fan)

Now - those i figure are a good place to start the basis for upgrading further.

I'd like to get an FFIM - preferably the 2JZ Upper to 7M Lower, if someone has one for sale, or can knock one up for me. If i get an FFIM, with the COP mod, i can then switch to the far nicer looking N/A cam covers.

I'd also like to get a replacement CT26 - fully rebuilt, but unsure of what trim to specify. I'm aware that a 60-1 is going to be sketchy in terms of reliability, and if i wanted that sort of power, i'd get something better than a CT26. In terms of trim - what are the crank hp limits for the 54 and 57 trim CT26 units.

Along with those last two - an intercooler would be nice - recommendations for one would be handy.

Boost controllers - which one? There are so many to choose from but i'm drawn more towards the HKS EVC and the GReddy Profec.

If i go for the VPC, will i also need an Apexi SAFCII or HKS FCON?

I'm also guessing that with such a mild upgrade, a set of BC 264 cams would be wasted?

Lots of questions for you guys to answer

 

[suprasnd]

Clutch and flywheel a nice add. Nice for matching rpms between shifts.
Driveshaft and LSD will aid in unsprung weight and help in acceleration.
Rims and good tires always a nice addition!! Looks and handling.
Mixed reviews on the HKS VPC , F-Con. (some say they are slow compared to newer stuff out there.)
Radiator always good for keeping things cool.

FFIM is good for shorting up the intercooler piping for quicker spool on the turbo.
As far as an upgraded CT. Save your money and get a real turbo. IMO
Some people have achieved some nice power out of the upgraded CT's though.
350+ HP
Profec-B here and it works great.
Pick a nice intercooler and don't go cheap, also get intake done before picking, then intercooler piping falls into place then

Just one mans opinion!!!

 

[Kai]

Well only looking for max of about 450 crank HP, a larger turbo would be more expensive an provide very little gain over the cheaper, trimmed CT26.

Got any of those FCON/VPC reviews?

 

[suprasnd]

You need to do some searching. I currently run the HKS F-con. I like it. I've about 300 crank HP and climbing. I've got a few mods myself.

Profec-B Boost controller.
HKS BOV
3" DP
Test pipe
HKS 1jz J-spec LegalMax cat-back
American racing 17's with good rubber
D2 coilovers
13" big brake kit (front )
SS brake lines
K&N filter
HKS intercooler
Jun 10lb flywheel
RPS 670ft lb clutch
C's shifter
Poly bushing kit with all new hardware.
and some others I prolly missed.


Happy with car currently, but getting ready to change turbo and fuel system upgrades. I've been working on the car since I got it in 2001. 450hp is achievable, but from what I've seen,read, and researched. The upgraded CT only does that for a short time. You really cut down on the life of it. I've talked to innovative turbo in CA more than once on this matter and they tell me that the exhaust wheel will only truly support an E50 compressor wheel and have any longevity. They told me to save my pennies and purchase a good turbo. Weather it be a hybrid or a true T4.

Like I said. Happy with F-con. Works for me. And as stated B4, Just one mans opinion

 

[bountykilla0118]

Ditch the VPC get the MAFT-Pro

Its an all in one
1) VPC
2) Boost controller
3) SAFC

If you are looking for 450rwhp the upgraded CT26 is not the way to go. Get a true t4 there are some pretty cheap bolt ons. Search around hit up MDC, bigaarron, JT and Boostlee

 

[Kai]

450 CRANK HP. And that would be the absolute maximum i'd ever run, its not the figure i'm aiming for. I've looked into MAFTPro, but theres no one on this side of the great pond that would have the first clue how to set it up, whereas the MAPECU and HKS options are more widespread.

The reason for wanting to stick with the CT26 is primarily because i want to keep the zippy fast spool i have without being restricted by a catalytic converter. T4 seems a bit...laggy. And more expensive.

 

[bountykilla0118]

Umm the setup is pretty much the same as any piggy back. Any tuner that can read and follow direction should be able to tune it.

What do you consider laggy?

 

[Kai]

Well i had an Ford Sierra RS Cosworth once, the engine was identical to an RS500 setup....no power until about 3500rpm and then it all got shoved in at once....and got light on it again. very narrow powerband...

 

[bountykilla0118]

Power band is not a problem with our cars for the most part considering how long the gears are in the mkiii ...... 3500-7000rpm is actually a pretty good power band. When revving 5500+ and then shifting you will never fall out of the power band like some of the smaller engines. 1st gear from a stand is the only gear that you will have a little lag but 3500rpms comes quickly when you know how to launch after that 400rwhp is about 1 down shift away.

I was a big block fan as a kid I had an 80 Camaro with a small block 400 and a turbo 350 tranny. I had a high rise intake, massive headers, and turn down pipes. I thought my instant power and my power band was impressive. Until I drove my cousins 90 MkIII and at that time he had just barely 400rwhp and it was the fastest car that I perosnally driven at the time.

I think you need to ride in car with 400rwhp with a true T4 and I think you will change your mind completely

 

[bountykilla0118]

But then again have you been in a car with an upgraded ct26? Those things are pretty damn fast my friend has a 60-1 untuned and its pretty fast at 10-12psi. I am boosting 15psi on the stock ct and we are pretty close ...... But I am a way better driver than he is mostly b/c he shifts in slow motion and I have a better clutch

 

[OneJoeZee]

Well i had an Ford Sierra RS Cosworth once, the engine was identical to an RS500 setup....no power until about 3500rpm and then it all got shoved in at once....and got light on it again. very narrow powerband...

If you're only looking for 450 crank, you shouldn't even be worried about lag.

 

[Kai]

Joe - thats the Max i'll ever run...a T4 & manifold would be more expensive than just getting something like a 57 trim and would happily see me through for a few years. Even if i end up with 320 at the crank, i'd be happy, although should i wish to up the boost past about 10psi, i'd like the turbo to be able to handle it...i'm looking for reliable power after all.

 

[bountykilla0118]

Do you realize that the stock ct26 at 14psi is putting down 300(+/-)rwhp without real tunning?

That would be around 350 at the crank. Your figures and goals are so low if thats all you need get the stock ct26 rebuild boost up to 14psi and a fresh stock block.

Then call it day.

 

[Poodles]

57 trim would do that easily...

Personally, I'd steer clear of anything RPS considering their customer service record...

Not a fan of lightweight flywheels with harsh clutches either as they're not user friendly IMHO...

 

[Kai]

Bountykilla - i realise that if i push a stock CT26 to its limit, i'll end up with 300rwhp or 350 at the crank, but i dont WANT to push it that far for sake of reliability. Getting mine rebuilt as stock, vs getting it rebuilt as a 54 or 57 trim is almost negligible in terms of cost. I'd rather have a 57 trim pushing 8psi than a stocker pushing 14psi for example.

Remember - RELIABILITY, LONGEVITY and DAILY DRIVEN!

Poodles - I'm not going to be buying from RPS direct, but through a dealer....the clutch isnt really harsh either - i looked at a range of them and it said that one is only about 10% heavier than the stock clutch and it holds more power. Deliberately decided not to go with something like a 6-puck because i want to retain smooth and easy pedal feel.

 

[7MGTEsup]

Why get a 57 trim and only run 8psi?? You can safely run 15 psi on a 57 trim. Its only when people start running 18 - 20 psi daily that the turbo's start shitting out. My stock ct 26 has been running 13 psi daily for about 18 months now and shaft play is no worse now than it was when I bought the car back in 2004. These things arnt made of rice paper as some people would have you believe, I think alot of car problems are caused by the owners.

 

[bountykilla0118]

I have been pushing 14psi for two and half years. When I purchased the turbo is had a very small amount of shaft and it still has very l little shaft play and I have put 50,000 miles easily.

 

[Kai]

Hmm....still, theres another reason not to push too much boost - the headgasket isn't a metal one. It's not stock Toyota item, but its still not metal! Although i do have ARP's....

 

[bountykilla0118]

What does boost have to do with the headgasket? I am still on a stocker. Lol there is nothing wrong with the stock head gasket..... its the weak tq specs of 54lbs my lug nuts get more tq than that. I am using stock bolts and headgasket tq down to 75lbs

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

Actually the stock headgasket isn't really the problem. Never was. The stock torque spec definitely is a problem, but the gasket itself wasn't bad.

Granted, a MLS gasket is better, but when I had my engine out for a tear-down, I couldn't strip it to a bare block to get the block machined. As such, I believe that reassembling it with a stock gasket gave me a more reliable engine than using a MLS gasket on an unmachined block surface. (The block deck was still flat according to my straightedge though. I would have gone the extra distance if the deck wasn't in spec.)

I did torque the head down on ARP studs though.

I would still rather make the same power at a lower manifold pressure. An upgraded CT26 will do that. That doesn't mean that I won't consider higher boost pressure with the upgraded turbo either, but for the difference in cost for a rebuilt turbo either way, this is probably a much better route to go for a "mild upgrade."