From a 87 n/a into A BEAST buildup
- Thread starter queenskid926
- Start date
also my rims came in today, there 18 x 9 in the front and 18 x 10 in the rear, Tires that i orderd are 245/40 front and 265/35/ rear. Just a lil conservative in the rear for now, next set will be some nice 275 or 285 street radials
I wondered why it took so long for my new wheels to get here. I believe they had the address wrong. I will PM you my address so you can forward them to the correct location.
ForcedTorque;1287927 said:
lol sure no problem, Just deposit 1000 in m paypall account and we can do that lol, comes with 245 40 tires for the front and 265/35 tires in the rear..
im just waiting for my rear tires to come so i can get them mounted and balanced then installed.
Ok, time to pull the head off again.
When I first installed it, antifreeze and oil was mixing but there was no compression gases were found in the antifreeze. I changed the headgasket anyway, but the headgasket that came off the motor did appear to look blown. My dumbass didnt send the head to get checked and tested and just put in a new headgasket with arp bolts I put about 2000 miles on the car and now its mixing again, and I know when I pull the headgasket off again its not going to look blown. So now either the head is warped, cracked, or the block is warped, cracked.
But its all staring to make sense now. When i first got the motor there was no thermostat, I didnt pay it any mind but now I'm thinking maybe the previous Japanese owner had some overheating issues and warped the head.
Well the head is coming off, orderd another headgasket, going to send the head to get check and tested for cracks and warpage, and going to put everything back together and I'm not spending another dime into the 7m and just save for a jz swap. I know me putting all of these miles on the motor with the fluids mixing, the bearings are going to go soon so i wont be surprised if knock knock will happen to me this summer. I hope its the head because if the block is warped or cracked, then ill just drain and change the oil every 1500 miles to try and make it last the summer.
Ultimately if it is the head, then its my fault because i shouldve sent it to get checked when i first did the headgasket job, well I live and i learn and now have an excuse to go 1jz or 2jz lol or maybe even 2jzge na-t
When I first installed it, antifreeze and oil was mixing but there was no compression gases were found in the antifreeze. I changed the headgasket anyway, but the headgasket that came off the motor did appear to look blown. My dumbass didnt send the head to get checked and tested and just put in a new headgasket with arp bolts I put about 2000 miles on the car and now its mixing again, and I know when I pull the headgasket off again its not going to look blown. So now either the head is warped, cracked, or the block is warped, cracked.
But its all staring to make sense now. When i first got the motor there was no thermostat, I didnt pay it any mind but now I'm thinking maybe the previous Japanese owner had some overheating issues and warped the head.
Well the head is coming off, orderd another headgasket, going to send the head to get check and tested for cracks and warpage, and going to put everything back together and I'm not spending another dime into the 7m and just save for a jz swap. I know me putting all of these miles on the motor with the fluids mixing, the bearings are going to go soon so i wont be surprised if knock knock will happen to me this summer. I hope its the head because if the block is warped or cracked, then ill just drain and change the oil every 1500 miles to try and make it last the summer.
Ultimately if it is the head, then its my fault because i shouldve sent it to get checked when i first did the headgasket job, well I live and i learn and now have an excuse to go 1jz or 2jz lol or maybe even 2jzge na-t
new rims installed, all i have to say is pirelli's suck for traction, no traction in 1rst or 2nd,
next set of tires will have a 40 series sidewall and will def be something stickier.
also motor is back out for the 2nd headgasket job and to send the head to the machine shop, to clean and repaint the engine pay, respray the motor and clean up so everything is all nice and shiny. will post pics on the motor and engine bay soon.
next set of tires will have a 40 series sidewall and will def be something stickier.
also motor is back out for the 2nd headgasket job and to send the head to the machine shop, to clean and repaint the engine pay, respray the motor and clean up so everything is all nice and shiny. will post pics on the motor and engine bay soon.
ok car is bac together from the head repair, head was machined flat, new felpro headgasket a few new gaskets and hoses, and i got her all back togther and running last nite, Still have to adjust the timing, tighten some more things, put the interior console back together and give a lil 20 mile test drive, retorque the head bolts after 5 warm up and cool down cycles and then have some fun lol.
I've decided on which motor route that I'm going to take, i was a lil back forth between 7m and a jz, Again i do have attentions on building a sleeper a 1jz swap and eventually a 2j bottom, so they think its just a regular 1j lol. Will post some new pics soon.
I've decided on which motor route that I'm going to take, i was a lil back forth between 7m and a jz, Again i do have attentions on building a sleeper a 1jz swap and eventually a 2j bottom, so they think its just a regular 1j lol. Will post some new pics soon.
yes i know that it has been two days since it was back together but now the motor is out once again, Headgasket stil isnt sealing correctly and this is a STOCK headgasket. The head was machined and had 9 thous taken off. Now its time to pull everything apart, and send the block to the machine shop.
Omfg jdm motors are pieces of shyt.
Well I took the block to the machine shop and they found out what the issue was. The block had a small hairline crack between #1 and #2 cylinders. Compression getting into the coolant, the bubbles in the rad all make sense now.
Well i sold my stock head and cams for a realy good price that allow me to buy a whole junk motor.
The plan is now to purchase a junk 7mgte, rodknock, siezed, etc,
Stripped the block and head to send to the machine shop, check for cracks and deck the surfaces flat on both
Install titan motorsports MHG with arp studs
Swap over the crank, rods and pistons from my good bottom end,
And then I know that i will have a good solid motor, with a mhg installed correctly with some reliability behind it.
The goal here is for this motor to be reliable and last me until i fund my 1jz swap in mid october.
I might install a 57 trim turbo and some supporting mods for fun
Well I took the block to the machine shop and they found out what the issue was. The block had a small hairline crack between #1 and #2 cylinders. Compression getting into the coolant, the bubbles in the rad all make sense now.
Well i sold my stock head and cams for a realy good price that allow me to buy a whole junk motor.
The plan is now to purchase a junk 7mgte, rodknock, siezed, etc,
Stripped the block and head to send to the machine shop, check for cracks and deck the surfaces flat on both
Install titan motorsports MHG with arp studs
Swap over the crank, rods and pistons from my good bottom end,
And then I know that i will have a good solid motor, with a mhg installed correctly with some reliability behind it.
The goal here is for this motor to be reliable and last me until i fund my 1jz swap in mid october.
I might install a 57 trim turbo and some supporting mods for fun
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im purchasing wolf's31685's old 7mgte with rodknock, he know went 1j so i got it for a good friend price. Lol me and him ran a few times andi beat his 1jwith my cracked block 7m and now hopefully i can beat him again with his old motor be4 he goes single lol
ok i decided to pick up the motor today, and start tearing it down,
Omg what a surprise did i have, i was told that i was getting a stock 7m,, then today he told me that the guy he purchased the car off of, that this motor was in, claimed that he purchased it from the owner of speedworld, a tuning shop here in nyc.
Well i def took the valvcovers off and its the cleanest head that ive ever seen, cleaner than mines when i got it back from the machineshop to get decked
Also it does have arp studs and a 3 layer mhg, lifters look brand new, stock cams tho.
Also every bolt on the motor from the valve covers bolts, to the bolts for the intake manifold, , power steering pump, etc are all not factory nuts or bolts and from the same company, same stamp on them, aisin aftermarket waterpump, and the oil pan gasket look as it was replace, so i may just bought a rebuilt motor that started knocking for $140 bucks.
A part of me hope that it has some internals, rods, pistons, so i can reuse those, another part of me hope that its still hasnt been bored out so i can just swap out my good bottom end into it.
Will post the rest of the results tomorrow
Omg what a surprise did i have, i was told that i was getting a stock 7m,, then today he told me that the guy he purchased the car off of, that this motor was in, claimed that he purchased it from the owner of speedworld, a tuning shop here in nyc.
Well i def took the valvcovers off and its the cleanest head that ive ever seen, cleaner than mines when i got it back from the machineshop to get decked
Also it does have arp studs and a 3 layer mhg, lifters look brand new, stock cams tho.
Also every bolt on the motor from the valve covers bolts, to the bolts for the intake manifold, , power steering pump, etc are all not factory nuts or bolts and from the same company, same stamp on them, aisin aftermarket waterpump, and the oil pan gasket look as it was replace, so i may just bought a rebuilt motor that started knocking for $140 bucks.
A part of me hope that it has some internals, rods, pistons, so i can reuse those, another part of me hope that its still hasnt been bored out so i can just swap out my good bottom end into it.
Will post the rest of the results tomorrow
sette1994;1358932 said:
yea i stripped the motor, all it had was a hks 2mm 3 layer mhg, arp studs, and possibly a rebuilt head. Everything internal on the bottom end, completly stock block.
Today I'm picking up the block from the machine shop to check from getting it decked. Crank was in great condition so i ordered a set of clevite 77 standard bearings from SIP racing and a new headgasket. Im going o reuse the arp studs that were on the motor.
This will be the first ever rebuilt ive ever done so im looking forward to changing rods cranks and pistons, and see if i can get it to start without knocking, This will be interesting and a learning experience and ive down alot of research and looked at alot of other members build threads and 7m assembly tips.
Ill be getting my block back today so i will take some pics and start stripping the other one.
sette1994;1359535 said:
it was real ez, pretty much a straite forward direct swap, less than an hour to complete.
ok well i got the block from the machine shop, took the crank, rods and pistons from my old block that has a crack in it and swapped them into my new one, Also orderd a set of new standard clevite 77 bearings and being that from the factory toyota has the select fit bearings system and all of the bearings are diff sizes, i plastiguage each and every main and rod bearing and all was withing max spec, most was within standard clearances except for 2 or 3 but all was well within the max allowed clearance.
Finish trqin down the aro head studs that came with this motor, They use a 14mm socket and this head seemed to be drilled slightly around the bolt holes to make room for the studs to fit. I guess these are the upgraded studs.
also done assembling the motor, then hook up the harness and tranny and drop it back n the hole.
Finish trqin down the aro head studs that came with this motor, They use a 14mm socket and this head seemed to be drilled slightly around the bolt holes to make room for the studs to fit. I guess these are the upgraded studs.
also done assembling the motor, then hook up the harness and tranny and drop it back n the hole.
sette1994;1366521 said:getting closer to it firing up
good news
yup my goal is to have the motor fully assembled, clutch and tranny hooked back up, wire harness attached and ready to drop back in tonite so tomoro i can just drop it in and make it run
i havnt updated this build thread for a while, but im back. Motor has been finally assembled. Broken in, and running since my last post. The torque of the 7m, the short gearing of the w58 tranny and the short gearing of the 4.30 non turbo lsd is a fun little combo. I lost some top end, but from redlight to light and in the 1/4 this car is a blast to drive.
Ive put over 3500 miles on this motor since last time it was installed, Drove the car on more than 4 150mile rd trip and in two days put 400+ miles on the car at one point driving from ny to ct and back. Car is reliable for the most part. A few leaks here and there but just normal maintenace, replace some hoses, etc.
I had a really bad problem with wiring and the old crao harness but i fix and hardwired a few plugs, mainly the ones for the coilpack to fix that issue.
Car is running 12-13lbs of boost, stock turbo, stock afm with the screw mod, stock intercoler and piping, and has run so far a best of 13.7 in the 1/4.
Im really impressed with the power of the 7m and surprised that i built a motor from scratch, no crank no pistons , nothing, and that it didnt blow up yet and it has taken my abuse since day one.
I have some kills in the kill sections, i also have some videos of my 1/4 runs, that are posted, Just search for them thru my name.
Next on the perfomance list are
Aem wideband.
Lexus Afm and safc
Walbro fuel pump
Intercooler hardpipes.
and r154 swap.
Those above will happen this yr and later on i will add, mp t70, 550cc injectors, aftermarket intercooler, ffim. and some other goodies.
My goal with the motor thats currently in the car is a reliable 450ish rwhp, on stock bottem end, stock hg with arp studs. Its all about the tune.
At that pt, i will debate on building up another 7m with a forged block or switching to a 2jzge na-t or 2jzgte. The 1jz swap to me just doesnt make sense anymore srrt lol.
Ive put over 3500 miles on this motor since last time it was installed, Drove the car on more than 4 150mile rd trip and in two days put 400+ miles on the car at one point driving from ny to ct and back. Car is reliable for the most part. A few leaks here and there but just normal maintenace, replace some hoses, etc.
I had a really bad problem with wiring and the old crao harness but i fix and hardwired a few plugs, mainly the ones for the coilpack to fix that issue.
Car is running 12-13lbs of boost, stock turbo, stock afm with the screw mod, stock intercoler and piping, and has run so far a best of 13.7 in the 1/4.
Im really impressed with the power of the 7m and surprised that i built a motor from scratch, no crank no pistons , nothing, and that it didnt blow up yet and it has taken my abuse since day one.
I have some kills in the kill sections, i also have some videos of my 1/4 runs, that are posted, Just search for them thru my name.
Next on the perfomance list are
Aem wideband.
Lexus Afm and safc
Walbro fuel pump
Intercooler hardpipes.
and r154 swap.
Those above will happen this yr and later on i will add, mp t70, 550cc injectors, aftermarket intercooler, ffim. and some other goodies.
My goal with the motor thats currently in the car is a reliable 450ish rwhp, on stock bottem end, stock hg with arp studs. Its all about the tune.
At that pt, i will debate on building up another 7m with a forged block or switching to a 2jzge na-t or 2jzgte. The 1jz swap to me just doesnt make sense anymore srrt lol.