fresh rebuild code 22 23 and 32

[maitai69691]

Now when I remove the efi fuse and all the codes then start it up it still idles crappy if I slow play with the throttle I can get it to slowly rev to 2000 but sputtering then the rpms will jump to 3k-3500 and bogg.
I'm thinking vac/intake leak but haven't found it yet all VAC lines have been replaced.
Also if I remove all the codes and start it and don't rev it up I only get the code 22 coolent temp.

Could it be bad compression?

 

[Zrain25]

Fix 22 it will effect the car in the cold I had similar issues

 

[maitai69691]

I'm in.Hawaii so I don't think it gets cold enough but will fix and see what happns

 

[3p141592654]

Unless its 180F outside, it affects things.

 

[Zrain25]

It's either the bad wiring to the coolant temp sensor or the sensor. The sensor is like 25 bucks. Idk about Hawaii but most part store will have it . Other toyotas used the same sensor

 

[maitai69691]

It would be awesome if fixing the temp sensor fix the problem...I still need to pick up some Carb cleaner and search for a intake/vac leak

 

[maitai69691]

Ok so after checking all the Turbo pipeing and every vac line and finding nothing I carfuly sprayed some Carb cleaner around fifteenth areas of the intake and think I found my problem air getig pass two of my injectors! When I spray them at the base on head the idle changes and kinda stumbles. So going to replace the seals on the injectors. And see if if that eliminates my AFM code and makes sense its just like a intake leak/unmeasured air geting in.

Lets hope this does the job, and why does it need to be such a pain to get to them lol got to love supras if they where easy to work on and never broke every one would have one. But when there tuning right its awesome

 

[jetjock]

Fascinating...

 

[maitai69691]

thanks for the attechment jetjock...question coud a code 31 or 32 AFM be caused by unmettered air ie: vac, IC piping, intake leak and not a bad AFM...

 

[jetjock]

No. Think about it.

 

[maitai69691]

So a AFM code refers to no signal...first I did continuity test from AFM plug to ECU plug all good so i fugured the AFM was bad. So I borrowed a AFM from my friends car no change.

Just replaced all the rubber bushings at the heads of the injectors where they go into the head since I found air leaking past two of them witht he carb cleaner they were cracked. Still no fix to the Idle or how its running.

Now Im lost. Any help where to cheack next.

 

[3p141592654]

You're kidding, right?

 

[maitai69691]

No I'm not this is a fresh rebuild so every gasket and VAC line has been replaced AFM swamped out honestly I don't know where to look next...

 

[maitai69691]

can compression have any affect on this...shoud i do a compression check...

 

[3p141592654]

Maybe you can start by rereading this thread. Plenty of advice has been ignored.