freeze plugs

Bri7man

"Yeah! Take the lemons.."
Jul 17, 2009
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Going to install them tonight after class and had some qq's.

What is permatex #4? I've searched google and the permatex site and nothing comes up.

Is the plug under the timing plate supposed to be in backwards? What's the proper way to get it out, I was thinking drilling a hole and prying it out.
sm_photo_missing.jpg


Annnd the safest way to clean the inside walls, 320 sandpaper?
 

dragracer

GearHead
Oct 31, 2005
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Churubusco
You could do that, but be carefull. The cyl is VERY close to it on the other side. I punched thru it with flat screwdriver at an angle. Then pryed it out.

Its not a normal freeze plug. No side walls. Its concave. And you will probably have to source it at Toyota. I was never able to find one anywhere else.

And I would use a socket a little under the outside dia to press it in. So you dont smash the center in.

Rich
 

ians13

New Member
Nov 8, 2005
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it's very simple, get a blunt object like a 3/8 drive extension or something place it on one side of the freeze plug and hit it keep hitting the same side so that the plug will flip in the whole. Then just pull it out with some pliers or something. If you accidentally knock it into the whole just use a magnet to get it, trust me getting it out is the easy part. That one looks to be installed backwards.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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ians13;1506990 said:
it's very simple, get a blunt object like a 3/8 drive extension or something place it on one side of the freeze plug and hit it keep hitting the same side so that the plug will flip in the whole. Then just pull it out with some pliers or something. If you accidentally knock it into the whole just use a magnet to get it, trust me getting it out is the easy part. That one looks to be installed backwards.

bzzzzzzz WRONG

It's installed correctly.

It's a Cup plug and is staked in place, I don't change them out unless it's 100% needed (Sharp probe and push it in the middle, if it's rotten it will punch through)

"IF" you change it and don't get it right look where it is and imagine the carnage of 6qt's of hot coolant directly into the pan and that Oil will float on water. :(
 

Bri7man

"Yeah! Take the lemons.."
Jul 17, 2009
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IJ.;1507011 said:
bzzzzzzz WRONG

It's installed correctly.

It's a Cup plug and is staked in place, I don't change them out unless it's 100% needed (Sharp probe and push it in the middle, if it's rotten it will punch through)

"IF" you change it and don't get it right look where it is and imagine the carnage of 6qt's of hot coolant directly into the pan and that Oil will float on water. :(

You is scaring me!!

I had the block hot tanked so it has to go... :(

Okay, so I think I'm good on everything other than sourcing #4 permatex. Can someone link me a pic so I know what it is/looks like?
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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Bri7man;1507016 said:
You is scaring me!!

I had the block hot tanked so it has to go... :(

Okay, so I think I'm good on everything other than sourcing #4 permatex. Can someone link me a pic so I know what it is/looks like?

Why?

#5 Indian Head will work as an alternative for the hard to find #4.
 

Bri7man

"Yeah! Take the lemons.."
Jul 17, 2009
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IJ.;1507020 said:
Why?

#5 Indian Head will work as an alternative for the hard to find #4.

Ooh it can stay in!?! All the freeze plugs must be changed after a hot tank right? Wouldn't I also need to change that one in the pic?


Cause It bothers me that I can't find it so I at least want to see what it looks like lol.
 

TheNewRed

New Member
Oct 19, 2007
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Whatever you do, make sure you use authentic Toyota plugs, along with the proper install tool.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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Bri7man;1507023 said:
Ooh it can stay in!?! All the freeze plugs must be changed after a hot tank right? Wouldn't I also need to change that one in the pic?


Cause It bothers me that I can't find it so I at least want to see what it looks like lol.

Stock Toyota one is steel, if it's not rotten as I said before I leave them be as the potential for fail is so high.
 

TheNewRed

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IJ.;1507028 said:
Stock Toyota one is steel, if it's not rotten as I said before I leave them be as the potential for fail is so high.

I was talking about all of the core plugs, and im with you on leaving that one in, i also havent touched them on the last two shortblocks that i did for myself.
 

Bri7man

"Yeah! Take the lemons.."
Jul 17, 2009
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TheNewRed;1507026 said:
Whatever you do, make sure you use authentic Toyota plugs, along with the proper install tool.
Yeah i got all 11 through champion toy and have 2 seal driver kits for it
IJ.;1507028 said:
Stock Toyota one is steel, if it's not rotten as I said before I leave them be as the potential for fail is so high.
I'm leaving it in then! Don't want to risk engine failure...
Zumtizzle;1507031 said:
I like Permatex No 1.

But i'm sure indian head or number 3 will be fine.

Permatex No. 4 can be obtained through NASA. ;)
Permatex #1?? Y not you in FC!?
PERMATEX%20FORM%20A%20GASKET%20NO%201.jpg

IJ.;1507041 said:
Was more an answer to Brian's question about having to change plugs after a hot tank, steel = no, brass = yes.
I think I knocked all my freeze plugs but the core plug for no reason.....
 

Zumtizzle

Can't Wait to Be King.
Oct 21, 2006
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Yes. Permatex No 1.

It's used to seal holes, and is specific for freeze plugs.

Remember the sealant isn't to seal it's to lube it and seal imperfections and be insurance.

Brian want to go 1/2 and 1/2 on a proper driver set?

One of my freeze plugs was janky looking so i had my machine shop knock them all out....bad idea. hahaha
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I use a socket that's -1mm of the plug ;)
(I have an old fucked extension so I'm not hitting the socket/hand)

I don't do enough to make or buy the correct tooling, what's VERY important is to get the plug in with a minimum of hits, a few small taps to centre it then 2 hits to seat it if possible (takes practice) If you use a LOT of small taps you end up peening the crush out of the cup and it will blow out as the engine heats up.
 

Bri7man

"Yeah! Take the lemons.."
Jul 17, 2009
580
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Torrance, CA
Zumtizzle;1507059 said:
Yes. Permatex No 1.

It's used to seal holes, and is specific for freeze plugs.

Remember the sealant isn't to seal it's to lube it and seal imperfections and be insurance.

Brian want to go 1/2 and 1/2 on a proper driver set?

One of my freeze plugs was janky looking so i had my machine shop knock them all out....bad idea. hahaha
If what i have doesn't work out then sure.

I picked up 2 seal driver kits from HF today, total was like $23. In the attached pic you can see the metal ones fit just on the edge of the plug and one of the plastic ones does also. Not sure if the plastic one will work... might break right? How much is the proper drivers?
IJ.;1507062 said:
I use a socket that's -1mm of the plug ;)
(I have an old fucked extension so I'm not hitting the socket/hand)

I don't do enough to make or buy the correct tooling, what's VERY important is to get the plug in with a minimum of hits, a few small taps to centre it then 2 hits to seat it if possible (takes practice) If you use a LOT of small taps you end up peening the crush out of the cup and it will blow out as the engine heats up.

Yeah a post of yours in a thread wayyy back how to drive em in haha.
 

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CyFi6

Aliens.
Oct 11, 2007
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I had my block hot tanked, OEM steel plugs and all. They looked good so i didnt touch a single one, no problems so far. I wouldnt worry about it, i left them in the same reason you would...I am more likely to screw something up than help it and that front plug is NOT one you want blowing out..