ffim discussion

gsxr141

Active Member
Oct 24, 2010
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question for all you guys.......... what are you looking for in a ffim?
my engine builder/tuner/fabricator plans on building a ffim for my 7m. he may build more if there's a demand.
he plans on using the stock lower intake and fabbing up a manifold from there.
should it have an isc?
should it use the stock tb?
would there be any interest in a kit that includes the front mount and piping?
what price range would appeal to everyone? with and without the front mount and piping.
like i said...... we're going to at least make a setup for my car, but if there's enough interest more can be made.

just throw out any suggestions you might have and maybe we can get a high quality setup made at an affordable price point.
thanks........ kevin
 

Van

87t Hardtop
Mar 26, 2006
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Oak Grove, OR 97267
I would be interested in the ffim only, w/ mounts for both the stock throttle and isc valve. Where I reside, the labor rate for custom fabrication is $100/Hr.
 

gsxr141

Active Member
Oct 24, 2010
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rochester
cool. i think we're looking at around $450 for the ffim. the quality and workmanship will be second to none. i too think it should have the stocl tb and isc. i also think there will be people that want it setup for an aftermarket tb and no isc. i don't think the isc is needed if you're running a standalone.
 

IndigoMKII

New Member
May 9, 2011
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Madison, Virginia
vacuum and signal ports need to be usable. the plenum needs to also have the proper volume and shape for a good flow.

iscv and csi need to be available along with using the stock tps or q45 tb and tps.
 

gsxr141

Active Member
Oct 24, 2010
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do you think people will really want the csi in there? i haven't seen many ffim's that have that.
all this is helpful. thanks a lot.
 

IndigoMKII

New Member
May 9, 2011
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Why not offer it? If you do this, it'll apply to a larger group. Instead of needing a EMS so you can run that ffim, make it so it will run with a stock ECU as well, such as the ISCV, CSI and stock TB and TPS.

Applying to a larger group of people will potentially get more sales.
 

jdmfreak

PACNW
Oct 8, 2010
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north clark co. WA.
I would suggest also offering a throttle cable and some way to attach it to the stock throttle body as I have a ffim and am having a difficult time finding the best way to do this
 

gsxr141

Active Member
Oct 24, 2010
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rochester
i'm taking all these things into consideration.
as soon as we get another break in the weather, i'll be bringing my car out to the shop so we can start playing with things.
while we're at it, we'll be looking into making some other 7m specific parts....
i already have the alternator brackets.
possibly a front mount with piping to go with the ffim,
a chromoly 1pc driveshaft
we've also done an adapter to install a t4 turbo on the stock manifold. the results were pretty good. on a stock motor and a mid sized turbo it put down 430 wheel. the car had a chinese intercooler, and was tuned in house with megasquirt.
i'll keep looking for your suggestions, and i'll definitely keep everyone updated. :)
 

gsxr141

Active Member
Oct 24, 2010
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exactly. that's the first thing i'm going to design. hell, that's kind of what i want to use on my own car anyway.
 

nathaninwa

New Member
Jul 1, 2012
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Aberdeen, WA
I dont have pics anymore, but I made a plenum that welded to the stock runners, cleared the alternator in the stock location. I rotated the T/B 90* so the linkage was on top and remounted the rod/linkage to the top of the plenum. It retained cruise, and the stock IAC (I would leave that, even standalone guys should use that). I did not use the CSI and only took a few extra cranks in the morning to get fired up.

I ran a front mount IC and was able to use 90* bends and couplers to go between the radiator and engine. I used some 3/16 plate for the plenum wall and press broke an 1/8th inch plenum that went from square up front to round out back. Never dyno'd, but looked trick and seem to pick up power up top.



Edit: I found the first one I did, and uploading the plenum style of the second to show you.

 

nathaninwa

New Member
Jul 1, 2012
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Aberdeen, WA
Heres the new plenums I form for t/b that are square to the bases. But others will get a flat plate and a D shape depending on the radius.


Just to give you some ideas.

Its also nice to get some stacks on the inside to pick up the air off the plenum wall.




 

QWIKSTRIKE

475rwhp459torq an climbin
Apr 3, 2005
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www.cardomain.com
gsxr141;1983665 said:
cool. i think we're looking at around $450 for the ffim. the quality and workmanship will be second to none. i too think it should have the stocl tb and isc. i also think there will be people that want it setup for an aftermarket tb and no isc. i don't think the isc is needed if you're running a standalone.

This is all depending on the weather tune, injectors ect,ect,wct. For cold stars My relocated ISC makes starting a breeze compaired to not having one. Not to mention that it runs and starts pretty much like stock.
 

gsxr141

Active Member
Oct 24, 2010
1,158
10
38
rochester
Insidious Surmiser;1984044 said:
alternator relocation doesn't interfere with the AC?

the alternator brackets i have DO put the alternator where the ac goes. i'll be looking into making a ffim that doesn't require the alt to be moved.
 

black89t

boost'en down 101
Oct 27, 2007
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humboldt, ca
jdmfreak;1983722 said:
I would suggest also offering a throttle cable and some way to attach it to the stock throttle body as I have a ffim and am having a difficult time finding the best way to do this



heres how i did mine for my ffim for my na-t 2jz. i have a 7m tb on its side with the stock cable cut and the cruise control cable crimped on to in. i made a little piece of aluminum where the stock cable adjuster sits. works really good. its nice cause the way it opens with it on its side directs air towards the front cylinders at part throttle which helps because the ffim inherently directs the air to the back cylinders somewhat. and my ffim is made from 1/4 thick 4x4 aluminum tube that was welded with a spool gun so its very strong. also made a support that bolts to where the lower runner had a support stock to the motor mount. don't want any cracked welds and want it to last for a long time.





this is the first one i made. i blew it trying to make it before having the motor in to make sure it would work. it sat so to high to where the hood just wouldn't close. i tried cutting part of the end of it off and puting a 45 on it but it was hopeless....ended up being a gigantic paper weight lol