Factory Alarm
- Thread starter jgcable
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QWIKSTRIKE
475rwhp459torq an climbin
jgcable;1216084 said:
Get an after market alarm with a motion sensor. Get an alarm that unlocks doors and all else is extra. You can even get theft tracking like lo jack. You wont be sorry. Make sue it is set for motion no more than 6" off the passenger and driver side glass. If you don't people passing by 3 feet away can make the sensor go off depending where its placed, and drive you and neighbors nuts!
The stock alarm isn't complicated once understood. The problem in doing so is Toyota's poor description of how it works. The switch designations in the EWD are confusing but at least they're better than the 87 model year's documentation. There the pin numbers are wrong and entire parts of the circuit are missing. Because of that I had to physically analyze the system way back when there was no newer EWD to consult. Now that I've dug those notes out I'll have to retract my comment about gelboy being right. The door plunger switches are not connected to the theft system in any way. They're strictly for interior illumination.
CJ: Arming the system without using the key is done not by the solenoid switches but by the latch switches designated "door lock sw" in the EWD. These switches involve the latch mechanism, the part that engages the door striker pin. When the system sees the solenoid switches (door locks engaged) open *and* the latch switches open it will arm. The change involving holding the handle up is mechanical. Both systems electrically operate the same way. In the Service Hints section, when dealing with pin 7, the terms "door open" and "door closed" should be replaced with "door unlatched" and "door latched". It's this kind of thing that makes the system confusing to understand unless the wring has actually been rung out the way I was forced to do years ago.
On my car reaching through an open window and using either the solenoids or manually pulling the lever will result in triggering. There are also simple mods that can be done to the factory alarm wiring to improve it's effectiveness. For example the starter interlock can be put to better use since fuel control is located in the same junction block. Anyway, rather than explain the entire system here I'll do a write up on MKIII tech when I get some time.
QS: I added motion sensing (not shock sensing) to the factory system back in 89. It's located in the bottom of the center console. Keeps people from reaching in with the Targa off. It has to be setup right to avoid nuisance triggering though. I'm sure the stuff available these days works better.
CJ: Arming the system without using the key is done not by the solenoid switches but by the latch switches designated "door lock sw" in the EWD. These switches involve the latch mechanism, the part that engages the door striker pin. When the system sees the solenoid switches (door locks engaged) open *and* the latch switches open it will arm. The change involving holding the handle up is mechanical. Both systems electrically operate the same way. In the Service Hints section, when dealing with pin 7, the terms "door open" and "door closed" should be replaced with "door unlatched" and "door latched". It's this kind of thing that makes the system confusing to understand unless the wring has actually been rung out the way I was forced to do years ago.
On my car reaching through an open window and using either the solenoids or manually pulling the lever will result in triggering. There are also simple mods that can be done to the factory alarm wiring to improve it's effectiveness. For example the starter interlock can be put to better use since fuel control is located in the same junction block. Anyway, rather than explain the entire system here I'll do a write up on MKIII tech when I get some time.
QS: I added motion sensing (not shock sensing) to the factory system back in 89. It's located in the bottom of the center console. Keeps people from reaching in with the Targa off. It has to be setup right to avoid nuisance triggering though. I'm sure the stuff available these days works better.
jetjock;1216360 said:
Ah, ok that makes sence... I wonder why mine acted the way that it did... Hmm ohwell I guess it doesn't matter to much being that its no longer there...
I agree, fuel cut insted of starter cut is a much better way to work the system. For those wondering why, well this is especially true if your car is manual. You dont need the starter to start the car... Push, dump the clutch and drive away... I had a RX-7 years ago that was stolen like that.. Ever since then every alarm I've had and or installed in other cars has the cut going to both fuel and ignition. Engine cant run without either of those so the only way they are going to take the car is towing it...
j3pz;1216405 said:
Yeah, the ignition switch does but thats the easy part when steeling cars... The whole thing is the alarm cuts the starter relay to prevent starter operation, but that doesn't prevent the car from being started. The coil side of the starter relay is grounded through the alarm module. When the alarm is active or triggered, this ground path is not present thus the starter relay will not allow for current to flow to the starter and thus its can not work. The starter circuit is the only circuit that the alarm disables.... This is why fuel and or ignition cuts are better cause like I said, you can start the car without the starter circuit functioning.... When I say ignition cut, Im talking cutting power to the ignition (spark) system
jetjock;1216074 said:
BEWARE! Something supernatural is involved here! The Supra gods have blessed him doubley!
jgcable;1216084 said:
Easy to activate the factory alarm: 1. lock your doors 2. attempt to unlock your door with your key 3. lights flip up, flash, horn blares
YOUR FACTORY ALARM IS WORKING NORMALLY!
Sarcasm aside, I've had 4 sups and 3 of them had factory alarms that were possessed. The fourth I never locked. IMHO, unless you can find out which furry woodland creatures jetjock sacrificed to the supra gods, I'd dump the factory alarm. You're working with 20 yr old parts that are at the end of their life. And you are about to replace 20 yr old parts with more 20 yr old parts. When I install a new alarm it will be tied into a remote entry system. I know, more $$. I just hate fixing something I've already fixed once. Perhaps it may be easier to get a removable stereo deck and leave the car unlocked. A couple of guys have posted ideas for starter kills that would make it difficult to steal the car.
ZoomZoomZoom;1216429 said:
Yea, mine isn't working. Nothing flashing on the dash, no horn, no nothing...
I am going to throw an aftermarket alarm in because I want to get a proximity alarm anyway.
sai_supra1jz;1216225 said:
Seriously.
I was reading this wondering if maybe something would pop up about a weird box I took out of my Supra. I guess someone added in a remote key fob. It looked spliced into my harness under the dash.
Just after I got my Supra I took it out (but left the connector that was plugged in). I hope i'm not boned when I get my Supra running :nono:
QWIKSTRIKE
475rwhp459torq an climbin
jetjock;1216360 said:
I wish I was smart enough to do this in 94 when I bought my Supra. However I have my sensor mounted on the radio bezel near where the wash button for the headlights would be. If it is not correctly adjusted as you say it can be a nuisance for sure. Hell s leak in the targa during the rain can trigger it too, causing a night mare.
I just ordered a replacement unit for my 5900SST viper remote start alarm from www.audiodimension.com (I think that was the site)
I paid 290 for it new and they have it with free shipping for 172$
I have liked this alarm in the supra a lot as I have remote start, hatch release and doors on it. I invested in rechargable AAA batteries which helped as its a 2 way alarm with 1 mile range. People like it mine just went stupid on me monday but I have a 5 year old and its possible he screwed with the remote.
Its not hard to install into the Supra and there is also a guy on here selling a great Clifford alarm and he has it all pre-wired up with detailed instructions. Im not too proud to admit I took some hints from his instructions.
Hookedontronics also has the newer color rechargable lcd remote
V
I paid 290 for it new and they have it with free shipping for 172$
I have liked this alarm in the supra a lot as I have remote start, hatch release and doors on it. I invested in rechargable AAA batteries which helped as its a 2 way alarm with 1 mile range. People like it mine just went stupid on me monday but I have a 5 year old and its possible he screwed with the remote.
Its not hard to install into the Supra and there is also a guy on here selling a great Clifford alarm and he has it all pre-wired up with detailed instructions. Im not too proud to admit I took some hints from his instructions.
Hookedontronics also has the newer color rechargable lcd remote
V
vdragonmpc;1220058 said:
Glad I could be of some help. thats why I post the info.
JetJock is right on all counts. Typically the problem with the factory setup is not the alarm itself but rather the moving parts that wear out or corrode, such as lock switches, door triggers, hood and trunk switches, actuators. One of the common reasons for a "dead" factory system is a faulty hood switch. It is tied to the trunk trigger but isolated from the trunk light. If it sticks open the alarm see the hood and trunk as open and will not arm.
But you will have no indicator the switch is open because there is no light.
If anyone is interested keyless entry can be added and it will control the factory alarm. I have them for salein the vendors sec.
vdragonmpc;1220058 said:
When you installed the new alarm, were you able to use the factory wiring already in place at the door locks/hatch/hood? How did the hatch release work since its not powered out of the factory?
Was the alarm standard in 88 as well? If so was it only in the USA? Because I can't find any sign or indication of the alarm system in my supra.
Poodles;1253518 said:
Where is it located on the dash? Because I can't seem to spot the little bugger. I'll take a good pic of the entire dash.
Mine doesn't have that there.
So my question now would be, would my wiring harness still be setup to take it? :1zhelp:
So my question now would be, would my wiring harness still be setup to take it? :1zhelp: