eraezer - Supra MK3 -89 -Swedish Build

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-07-13|:-

Today I did the swaybar end link reinforcment tab
Considering I had to keep the part cool with a water drenced towel and could only weld a little
at a time it turned out good.
I then put on some temporary primer.


Pictures:

Two of the rear arms hanging while the primer is drying

 

[IJ.]

I'd be more concerned about the other end...

resulting in this

 

[eraezer]

I saw that in your thread I'm sorry that it happend to you

Have this happen to anyone else? How many?
What can be done to avoid this? Reinforcing might do something but the part is 20 years old so I think a new arm should be made, thoughts?
Why did it happen? Rust (from the inside and out)? Fatigue? Plain old force?
Have the A1 team thought of this when they built their toe arms?
These are the questions that pop up in my head about this...

 

[IJ.]

I saw that in your thread I'm sorry that it happend to you

Have this happen to anyone else? How many?
2 I know of on this forum

What can be done to avoid this? Reinforcing might do something but the part is 20 years old so I think a new arm should be made, thoughts?
At a bare minimum I'd put a 360 degree gusset around a new arm if I were to build another Mk3

Why did it happen? Rust (from the inside and out)? Fatigue? Plain old force?
Age, no rust as my car is from a rust free zone of Australia

Have the A1 team thought of this when they built their toe arms?
Seriously doubt it....

These are the questions that pop up in my head about this...

Answers in bold

 

[eraezer]

Have this happen to anyone else? How many?
2 I know of on this forum
What about the other arms, have they got broken of like that? Have this been discussed where any conclusions were made?

What can be done to avoid this? Reinforcing might do something but the part is 20 years old so I think a new arm should be made, thoughts?
At a bare minimum I'd put a 360 degree gusset around a new arm if I were to build another Mk3
Have you measured the inside diameter of the pipe/arm?

Why did it happen? Rust (from the inside and out)? Fatigue? Plain old force?
Age, no rust as my car is from a rust free zone of Australia
It looks like it broke right after the weld? If so it's the correct place since it has been hardened by the welding.

Have the A1 team thought of this when they built their toe arms?
Seriously doubt it....
The only reason for buying those is because they are new (at least newer than stock) and beefier.

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-07-14|:-

The time for the front LCAs had come.
They got machinewashed, grinded and then got some temporary primer on.
Some of the stock paint is still on since it was in such a good condition.


Pictures:

FLCA drying

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-07-20|:-

When all the rust liking arms had some primer on it was time for the upper control arms.
These will not get an mirror finish. I will only use a wire brush and then clear coat them.


Pictures:

Front and rear UCA looking prettier

 

[IJ.]

Have this happen to anyone else? How many?
2 I know of on this forum
What about the other arms, have they got broken of like that? Have this been discussed where any conclusions were made?
Not that I've ever seen other than the traction arms bending over 300rwhp

What can be done to avoid this? Reinforcing might do something but the part is 20 years old so I think a new arm should be made, thoughts?
At a bare minimum I'd put a 360 degree gusset around a new arm if I were to build another Mk3
Have you measured the inside diameter of the pipe/arm?
The tubes are quite thick wall, sorry they went to the dump recently so I can't get an exact measurement.

Why did it happen? Rust (from the inside and out)? Fatigue? Plain old force?
Age, no rust as my car is from a rust free zone of Australia
It looks like it broke right after the weld? If so it's the correct place since it has been hardened by the welding.
I think/feel it's just a fatigue failue from 20+ years and 100,000 KM's above 400rwhp.

Have the A1 team thought of this when they built their toe arms?
Seriously doubt it....
The only reason for buying those is because they are new (at least newer than stock) and beefier.
Don't know what materials they've specced but I believe they use Heim joints and for me that would be enough to NOT use them on a road car.

 

[eraezer]

Have this happen to anyone else? How many?
2 I know of on this forum
What about the other arms, have they got broken of like that? Have this been discussed where any conclusions were made?
Not that I've ever seen other than the traction arms bending over 300rwhp
Hopefully it's not a problem for me this year since I will do as little upgrading as possible to get the car out before the snow comes.

What can be done to avoid this? Reinforcing might do something but the part is 20 years old so I think a new arm should be made, thoughts?
At a bare minimum I'd put a 360 degree gusset around a new arm if I were to build another Mk3
Have you measured the inside diameter of the pipe/arm?
The tubes are quite thick wall, sorry they went to the dump recently so I can't get an exact measurement.
No worries, it should be a standard dimension.. I think.
I'm measuring all the arms and do CAD drawings of them. So I will probably build my own toe arm this winter.

Why did it happen? Rust (from the inside and out)? Fatigue? Plain old force?
Age, no rust as my car is from a rust free zone of Australia
It looks like it broke right after the weld? If so it's the correct place since it has been hardened by the welding.
I think/feel it's just a fatigue failue from 20+ years and 100,000 KM's above 400rwhp.

Have the A1 team thought of this when they built their toe arms?
Seriously doubt it....
The only reason for buying those is because they are new (at least newer than stock) and beefier.
Don't know what materials they've specced but I believe they use Heim joints and for me that would be enough to NOT use them on a road car.
Well they are good when it comes to adjusting But needs to be oversized :-/
I wonder how much stronger their arms are when looking at the diameter of the pipes used.

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-08-05|:-

After some time away from my cars (spent a week in Norway, Skånevik) it was time to do a little
more on the rear arches. They are starting to look good but I think I will redo them later.
The final decision will be made when I can look at it easier, like when it's outside.
Any thoughts?


Pictures:

Left side

Right side

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-08-06|:-

Since the arches don't have a good place on my priority list I switched my focus to the arms
instead.

Today I wiped of all the temporary primer and painted all of the steel arms with a proper primer.
This time with a paint gun. Even the ones that were already primered got an even primer coat.


Pictures:

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-08-07|:-

I wanted to paint the top coat on the arms today but I had a problem, it was raining eventhough
"all" of the weather sites said that there should not rain during the day.
So I got a bit inventive and built a paint both of a half party tent which proved to be stable
enought for me to paint.


Pictures:

My paint both

All steel arms with top coat on

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-08-12|:-

Today I did some finishing touches to the arms.
I installed bushings in the FLCA's, took out the two remaining stock bushing shells and
re-greased two balljoints. Let me just say that the part that took the longest time was
installing the locking clip for the rubbers on the balljoints, it was a bitch to do.


Pictures:

Right FLCA ready

Grease where it needs to be

Greased bushings and inserts

Right FLCA done

The left one got the same treatment

Taking out stock bushing shell

And it's out

The final arm that needed this

Cleaning and re-greasing the ball joints

This is what I managed to do today

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-08-16|:-

The time has finally come to complete the rust removing process on the brake calipers.


Pictures:

Starting point

First set of caliper and bracket getting rid of rust

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-08-17|:-

The caliper and bracket that I put into the bath yesterday got taken out and looks
really good. A quick cleaning with the wire brush and the parts will be ready for paint.
I also put another set of caliper and bracket into the bath.


Pictures:

Round two

The one from yesterday now looks like this

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-08-19|:-

The rust removal continues almost on it's own
The caliper and bracket from yesterday got cleaned after the bath so one set
is completely ready for paint. I also cleaned the rear left caliper but that is not
in the pictures.

As you can I'm having a problem with the bracket for the rear left caliper.
It has a broken off bolt. I don't know what you call it but here in Sweden
(and if translated into English) we call it a "pig dick", and this little tool
broke off and I can't get that out, so I will need a new bracket.
When I'm using a weld plier to unscrew the pig dick all that happens is material
is being removed from the pig dick.


Pictures:

Front right caliper and bracket when it came out of the bath

and after I have cleaned it

Rear left caliper again. Do you see a problem with the bracket?

I failed when I tried to remove the broken bolt

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-08-20|:-

Today I finished the electrolyth process and wire brushed both of the final sets.
Then I finished the day with painting the first coat of 2k brake caliper paint.


Pictures:

This is how dirty I got when cleaning the calipers and brackets

First round of 2k caliper paint

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-08-21|:-

During the night til today the targa reinforcement bars and the safety bar for the drive shaft
got to take a bath.
All three turned out great, so they got some temporary primer and at the same
time I clear coated the UCA's.
I know that the surface on the UCA's are a bit rough but that will do for now, still a lot
better than before.


Pictures:

Some extra bars for the rear after the bath

and cleaned

UCA's with clear coat and bars with temp. primer

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-08-23|:-

Today I picked up another shipping from the states
The MS2 PCB v3.0 is not for my supra, I will build that for a friends SAAB 99. But I will
eventually go MS in my supra, but it will be MS3.
The IAT with bung is for my turbo Mazda 626.
I bought the JimStim to be able to bench test more features, but the sad thing is that I
waited till now for reading on upcoming versions for the MS3 which will be able to do more :-/
The LC-1 is for my supra I will install it when I build my new exhaust.

Question!!!
Has anyone used the second output from LC-1 to the stock ECU? (as a narrow band of course)

A stupid thing is that I got a tall WBO2 bung :S so I will need to trim it down.

I also got the remaining AN-10 hose ends that I need and some more to be on the safe side.
I also bought 2 rolls of 20 ft stainless 5/16" pipe to use with fuel, so now I won't
have any problem no matter what fuel I pick or if I switch between them

And of course I got 20 ft of stainless braided hose to go with the hose ends.

When it was time for bed I had built my JimStim.


Pictures:

Got another shipment from the states containing...

an ms2, IAT with bung and JimStim

Innovate LC-1 with red gauge

But the WBO2 bung is a stupid tall version

Nine AN10 hose ends

20 ft AN10 hose and 2x 5/16" 20 ft stainless steel line for fuel

At the end of the day I had built my replacement for the MegaStim

 

[eraezer]

-:|Update - 2010-08-27|:-

Today I started on the old lines, re-installing them on the car to get something to follow
with the new lines.
The line between the tank and charcoal canister was far from easy to get back, and it's
still not finished so I need to come back to that.

I also tried making a cone in the end of the stainless steel pipe, which did not work.
So I think I will need to use those couplers which cut into the pipe.


Pictures:

Old lines being used as guides

fuel tank - charcoal canister pipe almost in place