eraezer - Supra MK3 -89 -Swedish Build

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
849
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
-:|Update - 2010-01-14|:-

I'm finally done with the sub frame bushings! :D


Pictures:

The damaged piece is up in the lathe
30308919.jpg


Finished
30308922.jpg


30308925.jpg
 

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
849
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
-:|Update - 2010-01-18|:-

Removed the panels around the rear windows so that it will be easier to mask before
painting and so that I could disconnect the harness.
I also made a paper template for the reinforcements for the top of the rear turrets.
But I have started thinking...Is this needed? Would I achieve the same result if
I made a strut bar with bigger plates? The reason for the idea of reinforcement is
that my suspension setup will be stiffer than stock.


Pictures:

Template
30308942.jpg


Left side
30308939.jpg


Right side
30308943.jpg
 
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eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
849
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
-:|Update - 2010-01-23|:-

I had a little mishap today...again. But this time my supra got damaged :(''
I was stitch welding under the passenger side while being a bit irritated on
the lamp, which I couldn't get to light up the area I was working on and not
activating my welding helmet at the same time.
So when I was done on the passenger side I just crawled to the driver side
and continued there. After awhile it felt very hot, to hot to be from welds.
"Fire!!!!" came to my mind and I'm afraid I was correct :(
The carton I had used to protect the windscreen while working inside the car
had been placed on the driver side floor. So that started burning from the
heat and was completely gone when I looked in.
The fluid that was closest to me was Sprite, so that had to do, I used that
to put out the fire.

The things I need to replace (If you have one or more of these, please let me know):
Combination switch
The light for the ignition
The switch on the side of the ignition lock
and maybe a door panel

I will also have to go through the wire harness to see if any wires are broken.
The tape covering the harness to most of the damage.
I might just change all of them and skip the ones I don't need.

The door panel got burned. If you look at the picture of it, is it repairable?
or should I just get a new one?

If you have any of the parts that I need, please let me know, thanks.




Pictures:

After I put out the fire, it looked like this
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30313783.jpg


30313796.jpg


30313795.jpg


The combination switch which needs to be changed
30313780.jpg


The half that controls the light is not damaged
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Neither is this part of it
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The light around the ignition is unusable
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30313777.jpg


The part behind the ignition looks ok
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30313772.jpg


This is the switch which sits on the opposite side of the ignition from the push button
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After some cleaning and removal of damaged parts
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30313785.jpg


30313798.jpg


The damage on the driver side door panel, fixable?
30313779.jpg


30313786.jpg
 

adampecush

Regular Supramaniac
May 11, 2006
2,118
3
38
Edmonton
That is some extremely shitty luck, although anybody parting out an 89 should be able to get you all the parts you need for relatively cheap.

As for the door panel, I'd say start looking...it won't be easy to undo that damage.

If any of the electronics look affected by the heat, replace them. It is easier to do it now then to have to tear everything apart in the future because something doesn't work. At the worst, semi-fried electronics might result in a fire.
 

Enraged

A HG job took HOW long??
Mar 30, 2005
1,844
21
38
Victoria, BC, Canada
ouch, sorry to see the damage, luckily it looks like you can replace everything fairly easily.

i would replace the door panel, unless you want to recover the arm rest.
 

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
849
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
adampecush;1496894 said:
That is some extremely shitty luck, although anybody parting out an 89 should be able to get you all the parts you need for relatively cheap.

As for the door panel, I'd say start looking...it won't be easy to undo that damage.

If any of the electronics look affected by the heat, replace them. It is easier to do it now then to have to tear everything apart in the future because something doesn't work. At the worst, semi-fried electronics might result in a fire.

Enraged;1496898 said:
ouch, sorry to see the damage, luckily it looks like you can replace everything fairly easily.

i would replace the door panel, unless you want to recover the arm rest.

Thank you both for your replies :)

I will take a careful look at the affected electronics. But except for those listed theres only the rear lamp failure box.

I will wait with the door panel since it's only cosmetics.

I just noticed that I had skipped an update so I will write that now.

Does anyone have any recommendations about the spare wheel holder and the battery?
 

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
849
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
-:|Update - 2010-01-19|:-

I have a new idea for moving the battery to the rear.
As you can see in the first picture, I will flatten the floor in the blue figure and
place the battery in the green on. What do you think about that?
By doing so I can still use the holder as intended if ever needed.
Please give me your thoughts since you didn't say anything about my previous idea.

I also continued with some welding while a friend cleaned of some underseal.
Thank you mate.


Pictures:

My new battery idea
30308959.jpg


My todo list before paint
30308961.jpg


Continued welding around the left rear wheelhouse
30308962.jpg


30308963.jpg


A friend helped me with removing some underseal
30308965.jpg


30308966.jpg


Finally managed to remove the panel surrounding the number plate
30308968.jpg
 

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
849
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
-:|Update - 2010-01-24|:-

Continued with the welding under the car, this time without any fire :)

I brought my key today so that I could test the ign lock.
Without the rear piece I can turn the key without any stops and I need to
push the button to remove the key.
With the rear piece on the key can stay on all the stops (acc. and on) and
I need to hold the key to keep it on start.

But I'm a little bit worried about the rear piece... it looks like it's only the
casing which is burnt...but something inside could be damaged too.
The function without any battery connected is good ans it should.
Whats your recommendation, replace or not?




Pictures:

After some more cleaning and welding
30365047.jpg


30365045.jpg


Testing the ign. lock
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30365043.jpg


30365044.jpg


I need to hold the key to keep it at start position :)
30365039.jpg


And I need to push the button to remove the key from ign.
30365040.jpg


And the important part behind the ign. Replace or not to replace, thats the question?
30365042.jpg
 
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eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
849
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
-:|Update - 2010-01-30|:-

Made some progress on the spare wheel holder today.
Welded in a plate making the floor flat, but the area was to small
so that I had to add a 20mm plate so that the battery holder would fit.



Pictures:

Getting somewhere with the spare wheelholder
30365055.jpg


And with the battery holder in place
30365056.jpg


30365057.jpg
 

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
849
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
-:|Update - 2010-01-31|:-

Continued with the battery tray...getting better.

While the welds was cooling I was trying some stuff with a side moulding.
I removed the rubber and glue from it, sand it with coarse sandpaper
and made som deeper scratches with a knife and finally applied fibreglass
filler. Like always I put it on a bit too thick so I had some sanding to do.
I'm far from done sanding it but that was enought for today.
The filler moves with the moulding without cracking. It's not time to fix
the other side mouldings yet so I will test the flexibility of the filler
again in a couple of weeks. If it still moves good without cracking
I will do the same with the other mouldings.
If you have any other idea on how to do this, please let me know.



Pictures:

One moulding with too much fibreglass filler
30365061.jpg


The current status of the spare wheel holder
30365060.jpg


30365059.jpg
 

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
849
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
-:|Update - 2010-02-02|:-

I wasn't happy with the battery tray...so I cut it out and made a new one :)

I cleaned some more on the fuel tank while the welds were cooling.
I'm going to have to replace some metal if I'm going to keep it.
The "waist-edge" is in bad condition...
Repair or replace?

I also did some more welding in front of the rear left wheelhouse.



Pictures:

Got sick of my battery tray so I cut it out
30376894.jpg


Made a new plate
30376902.jpg


And started to weld it in
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Almost completed
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30376896.jpg


Found some holes in the filler neck
30376899.jpg


The upper part looks a lot better
30376903.jpg


I think I have to replace some metal if I'm going to keep this fuel tank
30376900.jpg
 

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
849
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
Thank you guys!
I really appreciate the comments :)

It's just that it would be nice to get some answers to the questions that I'm posting.

Thanks for following my build. I'm going to my garage today to do some work and hopefully I will have some more parts coming in either this week or next :)
 

sirgeorgee

New Member
Mar 3, 2008
238
0
0
Hungary
Replace it trust me if it fails later on it will be a pain in the ass to change it
I just gettint the end of your thread and this weekend will post longer
we almost did the same on mine
she had a lot of rust I thought but checking your mine was way better

Congratulations on this -this is a hard work I know exactly how it is--you even gave your blood for your baby

keep us posted
 
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