Engine Rebuild - Parts List Look Good?

[ChadMKIII]

So, engine is rod knocking, I'm pulling it and doing a full rebuild, with stock-spec bottom end.
How does this parts list look to you? What do I need to add? Do the materials look good? Any recommendations for better parts than what I have selected (keeping in mind I'm on a budget). Oh, and these prices are from horsepowerfreaks.com, they're the only place I would buy from - awesome service!

• Engine Pulled/Reinstalled: $475 (not changing)
• Head, Block, Rods, Crank, Misc Machined: $500 est
• Gasket Set: Fel-Pro $305
• Metal HG: HKS 2mm bead $240
• Head Fasteners: Reusing ARP Head Bolts I just purchased - less than 800 miles on them.
• Main Studs: ARP Studs $123
• Rod Bolts: ARP Bolts $52
• Timing Belt: Toyota $40
• Oil Pump: $240
• Belts: All new belts, haven't priced out yet
• Hoses: Mostly new hoses, haven't priced out yet.
• Bearings: Waiting to see what mechanic says
• Downpipe: Eh, might as well toss on a new one while I'm at it - BIC 3" $280

So, my total without tax & shipping & a few misc parts is 2255.
I'm planning on the 2mm bead type HG, I'm going to ask the machine shop to take off the amount that would make that fit, but don't worry I won't order it till I hear back from them ;-)

Anything I should change?

 

[pimptrizkit]

dont buy a mhg based on the size you think you need.

have them machine the block to atleast 25ra, and the smae witht he head, alot of shops call this surfacing. and if it aint flat when their done, they have a problem :evil2:

the timming belt i usualy go cheap on, and just replace it every time the head is off. i think i pick mine up for around 15 bucks at the cheap parts store..
the only reason i sugest a cheap one is if it breaks, you will only be stuck on the side of the road and not with any engine damage.

the more new coolant hose you buy the more you will love your car .. make sure to replace squeez clamps with worm gear style at minium.

as far as gaskets, i manage to only need the oil pan gasket when i do my rebuilds. i pull the head and leave every thing attached (so long as there werent any other problems leakin intake so on.. )
and i have had succese re-using my brothers and my mhg. and you can use silicone every where else. timming cover to block. rear main seal (but they usualy give you a gasket with the main seal when you buy it. )

worst case get a razor blade and make your own gasket out of a cereal box or shoe box.

make sure you have your machin shop install the arp rod bolts prior to any machine work on the rod's. make sure they are re-sized w/ arp bolts.

also is a good idea to have the main studs installed into the block and check the line bore of the mains.

 

[Mr.PFloyd]

get factory rod bolts unless you want to resize your rods. also ebay the oil pump to save 70 bucks.

 

[loki2043]

you want to resie anyway. so just get the aprs. also, have the shop check the oil pump, the thing is sooo simple it shouldn't need replacing. I its within spec. clean it, shimm it and reinstall it. (things I've learned from the shop and pimptrizkit)

 

[loki2043]

I also paid 1100 in machining work on the lower end with my setup.

 

[pimptrizkit]

get factory rod bolts unless you want to resize your rods. also ebay the oil pump to save 70 bucks.

if you remove your factory rod bolts period. they must be resized, or you will get rod knock! possibly with in 600 miles like i did.

 

[jdub]

Don't go cheap on the timing belt...you don't need the headache if it streaches and jumps a tooth. Greddy belts are outstanding...use the Toyota belt at minimum.

I would use ARP rod bolts and have the rods resized with them torqued to ARP spec.

Line hone the mains...ARP bolts must also be installed and torqued to ARP spec when this is done.

Triple check all clearances and torque specs

Have the front timing plate machined when the block is decked to the same or slightly below the deck surface. Don't forget the RTV at the two locations on the top...it's in the TRSM.

Replace the oil pump...if it's Ansin, it's factory OEM. This is one part you NEVER want to fail. If you shim it for more pressure, 2 washers will give you about a 10 psi increase...this is plenty.

Consider the oil kit ARZ just made up...it's in the "curing oil issues" thread. This is an outstanding upgrade.

Torque the ARP head bolts to 75 ft/lbs...that is spec for an aluminum head. Do not exceed it. Make darn sure the RA spec for the MHG used is met...30 RA for HKS, 50 RA for a Cometic.

The thickness of the MHG depends on the amount of material removed from the block/head.

I would helicoil all the exhaust studs...the 7M has a nasty habit of stripping them. Use a Toyota exhaust manifold gasket...no sealant. The new style Toyota gasket is a multi-layer steel type...much better than the others.

Do not use the oil pan gasket in the kit...the TRSM calls for FIPG for the oil pan seal. Permatex "The Right Stuff" is a good substitute and is easier to apply.

Check valve shim clearances before you install the motor...much easier to do with the motor out of the car.

Take a look at the banjo water fitting at the rear of the head...these are usually rusted pretty bad. Make sure you replace the small 90 deg hose that attaches to it, and the same hose at the back of the water pump.

 

[pimptrizkit]

"Do not use the oil pan gasket in the kit...the TRSM calls for FIPG for the oil pan seal. Permatex "The Right Stuff" is a good substitute and is easier to apply."

ive had had problems attempting to use fpig on the oil pan, if the pan is brand new and is not over torqued when put on, fpig is great, but an over torqued pan wont seat properly cause the pan bends where the bolts are.

i tried to fix my pan but was not able to cork gasket ftw in my eyes..

fpig is what the factory used and is up to par with toyota standards when used correctly on good parts.

 

[ChadMKIII]

Bumpety!


Thanks for the help so far guys! Any more out there?