Eneos 0W50

Rudy@ManicTechRacing

"In Boost We Trust!"
jdub said:
Read post 2, 10 and 16 at minimum:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41775

IMO a ?W-50 is too thick to be running in a 7M or JZ motor. This is why:
http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/


Jdub,

I am sorry for not being more specific about my question as the oil I was referring to was Eneos 0W50.

We have used this oil on numerous 1j/2j applications and have seen power gains ranging from 12whp gains Thur the power band to as much as 20+ whp gains (on cars at about 500whp)

This 0W50 I speak of is as thin as a 20 viscosity oil when poured out of the bottle. It also is a reverse acting as opposed to conventional or other synthetic brands. When they reach their temp rating for viscosity the oil stops protecting (this is what the company told me). This oil becomes thicker at extreme temps and has a excellent anti shear properties.

Also this oils is a Group 4 base (PAO) with Group 5 (Ester which is what F1 cars and Jet engines use for their oil) added to the mix giving this oil excellent cold start properties (being a 0W) and superior high temp/high load capacities. Best of all Its API SM certified.

I have looked at the viscosity chart that you have posed in the previous post and this oil covers the entire spectrum.

Also I know a lot of guys who drag race/road race and run heavier weights due to their extreme high temps/loads to prevent sheering and use 50 viscosity or higher. While reading the other posts I see the questions about 20W50 oils and this I think is the reason why most guys have used or are using such a heavy weight oils.

So the question I should have asked is has any one used this oil in a 7MGTE? and if so have they dynoed or have any kind of feed back on this oil (pertaining to a 7MGTE) as we have not and I would like to hear any kind of feed back that any one may have before we try this in a 7MGTE.
 

jdub

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Rudy - It's fairly obvious you didn't read Dr Haas' article on motor oils...if you had, you would have understood how a multigrade oil works and that a 50W is not the optimum oil for the 7M or JZ motors. Since it seems you are promoting the Eneos 0W-50, I took a look at it:

Rudy@ManicTechRacing said:
We have used this oil on numerous 1j/2j applications and have seen power gains ranging from 12whp gains Thur the power band to as much as 20+ whp gains (on cars at about 500whp)

I'm pretty skeptical on this one...unless you did controlled tests (using the same car, no tuning changes, same OAT, barometric pressure and humidity). If so, I'd like to see the data. The reason is, SAE has done numerous tests concerning the same thing and in every case a thinner (lighter weight) oils produced very small HP gains and better gas mileage due to lower fluid friction. Toyota is promoting the use of lighter weight oils for the same reason:
http://www.imakenews.com/lng/e_article000463014.cfm?x=b5JKv2G,b38lLn1r

The NASCAR guys are using thinner oils to squeeze out a few more HP/laps too:
http://www.mpt.org/motorweek/goss/2313.shtml

You can see why I'm skeptical a 50W would produce more HP. The only situation I can see is if the 0W-50 was compared to a 15W or 20W-50...the Eneos 0W-50 is a thinner 50W in this case.


Rudy@ManicTechRacing said:
This 0W50 I speak of is as thin as a 20 viscosity oil when poured out of the bottle. It also is a reverse acting as opposed to conventional or other synthetic brands. When they reach their temp rating for viscosity the oil stops protecting (this is what the company told me). This oil becomes thicker at extreme temps and has a excellent anti shear properties.

Also this oils is a Group 4 base (PAO) with Group 5 (Ester which is what F1 cars and Jet engines use for their oil) added to the mix giving this oil excellent cold start properties (being a 0W) and superior high temp/high load capacities. Best of all Its API SM certified.

Viscosity is relative when looking at the numbers on the bottle. Here are the viscosities for Eneos 0W-50 and Red Line (100% ester based) 15W-50, 5W-30 and 5W-20 for comparison:

Eneos 0W-50
Viscosity @ 40 deg C: 104 cst
Viscosity @100 deg C: 18 cst

Red Line 15W-50
Viscosity @ 40 deg C: 138 cst
Viscosity @100 deg C: 19.8 cst

Red Line 5W-30
Viscosity @ 40 deg C: 62 cst
Viscosity @100 deg C: 10.6

Red Line 5W-20
Viscosity @ 40 deg C: 55 cst
Viscosity @100 deg C: 9.1 cst

The Eneos 5W-50 is almost twice the viscosity cold as the RL 5W-20...you have to take the numbers on the bottle with a grain of salt, they do not equate to the actual viscosities of the oil cold/hot. Regardless of what you were told, motor oil never thickens as it gets hot...it always drops in viscosity as it reaches ops temp. The Eneos is no different and it will continue to get thinner as temp increases. From what info I can find on Eneos, it is a PAO based oil with ester blended in the base stock...as such, it will have excellent high temp resistance to break down and shear, characteristic of any PAO or ester based oil. The Eneos 0W-50 is better than the RL 15W-50 on the cold side for engine start, but it doesn't hold a candle to the 5W-20 or the 5W-30 in it's ability to flow cold. Flow is far more important than shear characteristics when considering an oil.

Flow is what makes the bearing in any motor work...the main and rod bearing work in the hydrodynamic region and depend on flow to keep the bearing cool and prevent the surfaced from touching. Increased viscosity causes resistance to flow (higher psi), lowering the volume of oil delivered to the bearings for a given rpm/psi output from the pump. Additionally (at least on the 7M), there are two oil relief valves that returns oil to the pan...one on the pump (functions at 63-71 psi) and a second on the filter head (operates at ~40 psi) that supplies oil to the cooler circuit...using a thick oil will cause these valves to function at a lower volume. Using a thicker oil effectively reduces the volume of oil supplied to the bearings...not good. Keep in mind the 7M and JZ series motors were designed to run an oil with a viscosity of 10-11 cst at ops temp.

Colin brought up an excellent point...the increased viscosity spread on the Eneos 0W-50 is due to the use of additional viscosity index improvers. This reduces the amount of base stock oil by volume in the formulation, which means the amount of lubricant that is usable by the motor. VII's break down as they go through engine heat cycles...even more so with a big viscosity spread like the Eneos 0W-50.


Rudy@ManicTechRacing said:
Also I know a lot of guys who drag race/road race and run heavier weights due to their extreme high temps/loads to prevent sheering and use 50 viscosity or higher. While reading the other posts I see the questions about 20W50 oils and this I think is the reason why most guys have used or are using such a heavy weight oils.

So the question I should have asked is has any one used this oil in a 7MGTE? and if so have they dynoed or have any kind of feed back on this oil (pertaining to a 7MGTE) as we have not and I would like to hear any kind of feed back that any one may have before we try this in a 7MGTE.

When talking about syn oils, shear is much less a factor...all of the PAO or ester based oils resist shear very well regardless of grade. If you want to use a thicker oil in a 7M (or JZ series) motor, the engine needs to be built for it considering the reduced flow a 50W will cause. On a 7M, the pump will need to be shimmed to increase the psi the relief valve functions, the bearing clearances will need to be opened up a bit, the cooler circuit will need to be converted to thermostat controlled, and an oil accumulator installed for start-up and heavy demand.

Even doing these things, I still would not go higher than a 40W...why would I want to restrict oil flow to the motor? The only reason I can come up with is if I was running the engine above factory redline...a thicker oil would help prevent bearing wiping at high rpm by providing an increased oil film thickness. For 99.5% of the guys out there running moderate to heavily modified street cars, a 0W or 5W-30 will be the ideal oil to run.

Overall, it looks like Eneos is a decent oil...it's nice to have another option for a "true synthetic" in the US, especially if it is price competitive. What I don't recommend is using the heavy multigrade oils, regardless of brand. I highly suggest you take the time to read the article by Dr Haas I posted above...might just change your mind of the grade of oil you use.

Edit: I posted this regarding the same oil in a different thread in this section:

jdub said:
There is something that concerns me about this oil...it look like it is targeted toward the tuner/racing crowd (like Motul, Neo, etc)...there is a lot of hype in the claims made about this oil. That makes me suspicious from the start...especially the claims concerning HP gains on the dyno. I can put on a buffalo head, leopard pants, grab my sacred totem and dance around the car, and I guarantee there will be a variance in RWHP...without changing nothing, nada, zilch. Using dyno runs to prove a lubricant is better vs others on the market is another level of marketing hype...on par with some of the "snake oil" additive advertisements. Making claims a motor oil (or additive) gives any significant increase in HP is simply outrageous. Let's keep these kind of claims out of this discussion...I want to know how our motors are going to hold up using this oil.

This was after throughly reading up on Eneos oils...I'm not saying Eneos is a bad oil or company, but their marketing tactics is lets say "less than desired". I will not tolerate "nut swinging" in this section.
 

Rudy@ManicTechRacing

"In Boost We Trust!"
jdub said:
Overall, it looks like Eneos is a decent oil...it's nice to have another option for a "true synthetic" in the US, especially if it is price competitive. What I don't recommend is using the heavy multigrade oils, regardless of brand. I highly suggest you take the time to read the article by Dr Haas I posted above...might just change your mind of the grade of oil you use.

Edit: I posted this regarding the same oil in a different thread in this section:



This was after throughly reading up on Eneos oils...I'm not saying Eneos is a bad oil or company, but their marketing tactics is lets say "less than desired". I will not tolerate "nut swinging" in this section.


This was the very reason i was reluctant to disclose the name of the oil in my first post, I simply wanted to know any one used a 0w50 oil on a 7mgte and nothing more as I will be testing this oil on a 7MGTE and wanted some feedback, I have used the oil, domestic customers have used the oil, Evo guys have used the oil, Honda guys have used the oil and they are all seeing HP gains (HP should not be the most important part of any oil but is a big factor for any one in the performance circles looking for oils). As you mentioned a dyno is not the best measure of horse power the fact is they are a tuning tool and there are a lot of factors that can vary the out come.

I used the oil and I loved it. Most every one here has their favorites and like you said it is good to see that there is another player in the world of engine oils.

Finally there is a lot of hype on the oil probably because the oil works and every one is taking notice, I know that Cosworth recommends the brand and that speaks for its self.

My Intention is to use a 0W50 oil in a 7MGTE and see what the end results are. And I am trying to approach this using a Scientific Method
 

jdub

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Well, hopefully my post above gives you a start concerning the way to approach looking at oils. I take endorsements with a grain of salt...Ferrari endorses Q Power oil, Penske endorses Mobil 1...I could go on. You have to be analytical and cut through the marketing hype. I have nothing against Eneos oil, but would like to see results based on oil analysis over time vs dyno data that will really tell us nothing or testimonials about how better the motor "feels". Oil's true test is how well it protects your expensive motor from wear and mechanical failure due to inadequate lubrication. If you truly want to use a scientific method, do this:

Get a VOA done on the oil here:
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Follow-up with UOA's at 2000 mile intervals.

Post the results...repeat for several different cars.

The analysis will tell you precisely how the oil is performing in it's primary duty...lubricant for your motor.

However, I still stand by opinion on using any 50W oil...it's too thick for 99.5% of the motors out there.
 

Poodles

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Cosworth has their own line of oils, so I doubt the endorsment.

IIRC there was a test not too long ago about HP gains with oils not being a good test since straight minerla oil will show nice gains...but kill the motor in the process.
 

Rudy@ManicTechRacing

"In Boost We Trust!"
Poodles said:
Cosworth has their own line of oils, so I doubt the endorsment.

IIRC there was a test not too long ago about HP gains with oils not being a good test since straight minerla oil will show nice gains...but kill the motor in the process.


If you like you can call up Cosworth and ask what oil they recommend

Also if you like throwing names out there Eneos (nippon oil also makes toyota's 0w20 oils and the WS trans fluids)

These are our personal findings and not related to any thing else. If any one would like to try their own testing and post in contrary to what I have found I will be happy to entertain this.
 

jdub

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Like I said...endorsements mean squat.

Also, from the info I have, Nippon Oil makes the factory fill for Toyota cars & trucks.

I going to say it once more, keep the discussion on Eneos' performance as a lubricant...that is the bottom line. No more talk about HP gains from using any brand of oil...sorry, but those claims are way too easy to manipulate and are way to subjective. That's the way it's going to be.
 

soapra

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I have to add my few cents in this one, because I see alot of oil talk all over the place on this forum, and I was waiting on someone to mention this oil. I ran this oil on my last 1jz for almost 150,000 miles. I blew the engine do to overboosting. But I have pictures of the engine bearings after the use of this oil. I think numbers and formulas published are great but nothing beats real life accounts. I also have the original turbos that came off that same engine witch people always say are known for blowing up. Well those turbos still run till this day and dont burn oil.

here are the pictures

p807039_1.jpg


So is Eneos 0W 50 the wrong oil to run on a JZ engine?

I have driven 1JZ's longer and harder then most on this forum, and I will continue using this oil (Eneos 0W 50) in every engine that I own and build for my costumers.
 
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blackkarma

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i was wondering if anyone had heard of eneos oil...i was told it was one of the leading brands in japan and out performs RP. just wanted to know if there was any truth to the claim? got a great deal on a group buy just wanted to make sure i was getting quality.
 

Zumtizzle

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It's a Group IV Syntetic. (A "Real" Man Made Syntetic)
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38768 <---See post 19 and you decide.

But, it's highly over rated and i'd stick to Redline if i wanted the best oil (Group V Syntetic, same as jet motors), and using the appropriate weight of oil (depends on clearances). :)

If you read around you'll get some info and save a few bucks. Also look into AEHass, but i haven't had the time to go through it (so i just read through the info on here, JDub truely summarizes it well for you).

Nice Sig and Avatar Bud.:D
 

soapra

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Well most of you know how I feel about numbers when it comes to oils. I have done many miles on Eneos (200K to be exact) and I have bearings that came out of that engine that says otherwise against what others think this oil. I had gone on longer oil change intervals with this oil (5000+ miles) and it just kept on going strong. I drive my car Every day at 450+ hp, I do crazy things with my car daily; drifts, slides, burn outs, launches, hard g turns, High speed pulls to over 140+ (and stay on it for a long time) , I&#8217;ve used over 60 gallons of C16 in the life of that engine.

This is on a 1jz with those twins that go boom; well those twins are still going strong with not one drop of burned oil. Call it snake oil, but my experience with this oil compared to other oils that are highly rated on these forums is second to none. Did I mention that I drove 200K in a span of three years! I don&#8217;t think one person on this forum drives as much as I and beats his car for that period of time.
 

jdub

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If you are talking about me Jose, i have NEVER said Eneos was a bad oil or that it was snake oil. I want to make that very clear from the beginning.

The problem I have with Eneos is the marketing...to say an oil will increase HP is pure rubbish. The company and some of it's dealers hype an oil with the same characteristics and base stock as other oils on the market as something new...it's not. I have yet to see the pricing on this oil...I'm betting it's expensive.

The data available on Eneos is limited...no info on it's base stock and no analysis I can find. Jose's pics of his bearings are impressive...perhaps more of tribute to his skill as an engine builder. I have seen bearings from a motor running Red Line 5W-30 that looked just as good...same for a motor running Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30.

In addition, most of the posts on this oil were on the 0W-50 version. That oil is too thick IMO to flow well through a stock 7M oil system...I'm not as familiar with the 1J or 2J oil system, but I can't see how it would be a lot different. I have posted many times on this subject...a 0W or 5W-30 will, without a doubt, flow better cold and provide better service in just about any motor. Read Dr Haas' take on the subject (link in my sig).

Blackkarma - Do me a favor next time and search before you post in this section...most oil questions have already been asked. Eneos already has a thread running here. I am going to merge the threads.

Jose - Are you a dealer for Enos?
 

soapra

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jdub;1048940 said:
If you are talking about me Jose, i have NEVER said Eneos was a bad oil or that it was snake oil. I want to make that very clear from the beginning.

Dont take that the wrong way Jdub, Its not what It sounds like. Keyboards dont show emotion or sarcasm.:biglaugh:


Jdub, Im not a dealer for Eneos.

I use the 0w50 weight Eneos. I have never used an oil because of claim in horse power and I use 0w50 because im in California. The coldest it gets here is 50 degrees lol!(and the way I drive) The oil system on the JZ blocks is over kill. At startup we see oil preasure as high as 90-100 psi depending on oil weight. In my case with Eneos I see oil preassure of 100 psi at start up and during the time that the oil is hot it reads about 65 psi At iddle.


Off topic regarding oil preassure:

I have invested good money in to a good, hi response oil gauge and it was one of the best gauges I purchased. If I do a hard launch I see the oil preassure jump up to 100 psi as I gas it, once the G's start to climb the oil preassure drops to about 80 psi and it climbs back up. I know on a 7M the iddle oil preassure is not that much and it has horrible oil control in the pan, imagine what happens to a 7M during a hard launch.
 
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jdub

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Hence my comments about using a 50W multigrade on a motor with a stock system...the 7M oil system is fine for a stock motor. You start going into the high HP regime and you need to do some mods...the stock filter head is the 1st to go IMO and switch over to a thermostat controlled cooler circuit.

I've talked to Duane quite a bit about what oil to use in his motor...he's using Amsoil 20W-50 in the 7M beast he's built. A very interesting thing he told me was he had to start the engine during the winter...it clattered like crazy cold. No doubt due to the lack of oil flow due to the 50W viscosity. If someone decides to use this thick of an oil, they need to understand what it does (how it flows) cold.

Pressure is resistance to flow. In any motor, the bearings depend on flow to maintain the oil film thickness necessary to keep the journal from touching the bearing.