Driveability issues

Chris_87_Turbo

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Nov 5, 2013
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Princeton, TX
Tonight on my way home, cars stuttering real bad an acting like it was gonna die. It would build boost but the turbo sounded more like a scream or a whistle than it use to and when I would shift I didn't get the fluttering sound from the BOV. I had just tried venting the BOV to atmosphere and didn't like so I put the recirc hose back on and now its acting like this. Check engine light does come on and it almost feels like a really bad misfire on multiple cylinders at the same time. Anybody have any ideas?

Chris
 

Chris_87_Turbo

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Nov 5, 2013
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Princeton, TX
Nick M;1976910 said:
You can start by reattaching the hose correctly.

What do you mean correctly, doesn't air flow the hose either way or is their a check valve in there. I am taking to a buddies shop to diagnose it today. I reinstalled the hose before class last night and it ran fin on the way to class then after class on my way home is when it started acting like this.

Chris
 

Nick M

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Chris_87_Turbo;1976896 said:
I had just tried venting the BOV to atmosphere and didn't like so I put the recirc hose back on and now its acting like this.

I am pretty sure I read this right. I don't know what you hooked up where. Did the hose pop off because the clamp is not on? I can't see it from here. An intake leak can cause your symptoms. I don't know what was unplugged or moved. Is the diaphragm in working order? How do you know?
 

Chris_87_Turbo

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Nov 5, 2013
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Princeton, TX
All that was removed was the hose from the BOV to the accordion tube and then the port on the accordion tube was capped off. I didn't get the results I was hoping for so I put everything back the way it was. The car drove fine on the way down to school but then on the way home it started acting up. The BOV working as it should before anything was touched so all the internals should be ok. As I was looking today, I discovered the white wire for the O2 sensor had come out of the connector and a small hose on the underside of the accordion tube that goes to the little PITA 90 degree port had come of the nipple. I reinstalled that after I got home and haven't test driven it yet but I don't see any other issues or lines loose. I will test drive it tomorrow and post the results.

Chris
 

Chris_87_Turbo

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Nov 5, 2013
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Princeton, TX
Just took it for a drive and still have a boost leak. turbo is spooling and putting out boost but it seems to not be reaching the manifold or the BOV because its not doing its fluttering release of pressure. The car drives without surging now and for some reason my turn signals have decided not to work. Anybody in the McKinney or Princeton area up for lending a hand to diagnose and help fix the problem?

Chris
 

Nick M

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Chris_87_Turbo;1977025 said:
Just took it for a drive and still have a boost leak. turbo is spooling and putting out boost but it seems to not be reaching the manifold or the BOV because its not doing its fluttering release of pressure.

You don't say...

I would look at it for free. Seriously. I don't live there. Maybe you can see the mistake if the picture is close enough. Check your routing and hose clamps.

Engine%208-11-20.JPG
 

Chris_87_Turbo

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Nov 5, 2013
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Thanks but I actually found the problem yesterday using some soapy water and a shop light in a make shift "redneck" garage. Used some redneck ingenuity and nailed a tarp to my carport and secured the other end under the hatch lip. The PO decided for some reason not to use a t-bolt clamp on the compressor air discharge port on the turbo, instead used a worm clap with a bolt instead of a screw and that had come loose and slid up off the coupler. I replaced it with a t-bolt clamp. Found a few other leaks as well. It appears that the PO was not fond of using new clamps where needed and some port on the accordion tube didn't have clamps at all, one hose the clamps were so weak I was able to pull the hose and clamp right off the pipe by hand with minimal effort. I replaced all those with semi new worm clamps. Car idles like it should but seems like it has a bad miss and the timing is maybe a tooth off. I can hear a popping sound through the exhaust and can feel a miss at idle. Experienced the popping through the exhaust on my Honda after the motor was rebuilt to be an all motor beast at 12.5:1 compression because I got in a hurry as storms were coming and I didn't have a garage so I had to hurry and get it together and back in so I could get it back to my house and under my carport. I got the exhaust cam a tooth off and had the same popping through the exhaust like this car is doing. One of these days I will get a tune up and check my timing marks on the cam sprockets once this weather clears up and warms up a little bit.

Chris
 

IndigoMKII

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May 9, 2011
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These cars normally do have a slight miss at idle because of the igniter not having the best ground. Search for the igniter grounding mod to help that slight bump at idle disappear.
 

Chris_87_Turbo

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I didn't even think about the igniter being a culprit. Looks like I will be looking into that mod and possibly doing it when I do my grounding kit ( I didn't buy one - I refuse to buy something I can make myself, I will make my own out of 4ga audio cable) and air to fuel gauge.

Chris
 

IndigoMKII

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Chris_87_Turbo;1977246 said:
I didn't even think about the igniter being a culprit. Looks like I will be looking into that mod and possibly doing it when I do my grounding kit ( I didn't buy one - I refuse to buy something I can make myself, I will make my own out of 4ga audio cable) and air to fuel gauge.

Chris

I believe I grounded my igniter with 14 ga wire. All you do is pop open the case and run another wire from the internal case ground.
 

Chris_87_Turbo

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Nov 5, 2013
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Princeton, TX
I a decent amount of scoche 10ga cable laying around in the shed and a 1/2 roll of 4ga at the parents in the garage. I may even relocate the battery while I am at it, I got 2 15 or 20 ft or so lengths of 2 gauge and 1/0 welding lead as well as 2 2 gauge ground cable and a 1/0 ground cable. Just don't know where I'd mount it yet. I am thinking of redoing all the grounds in 4ga and the really small grounds like coil pack bracket and other smaller grounds in 10ga.

Chris
 
Oct 11, 2005
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Thousand Oaks, CA
So "back in the day" Toyota's top of the line automobile was delivered to customers off the dealers lot with a slight miss at idle! Give me a break. I can tell you that I do not have a slight miss at idle and my igniter ground is not modified.
 

IndigoMKII

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May 9, 2011
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3p141592654;1977261 said:
So "back in the day" Toyota's top of the line automobile was delivered to customers off the dealers lot with a slight miss at idle! Give me a break. I can tell you that I do not have a slight miss at idle and my igniter ground is not modified.

I didn't mean they came like that from the factory, something like shouldn't even be taken as such. what causes the slight miss at idle for 80% of the people here?
 
Oct 11, 2005
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Thousand Oaks, CA
IndigoMKII;1977331 said:
what causes the slight miss at idle for 80% of the people here?

80%? I'd like to see your data for that. If you have a miss at idle, then something is broken. Some typical causes might be small vacuum leak, timing, worn ignition wires, plugs, etc., injector imbalance, hacked fuel system, poorly setup lex afm mod, cylinder imbalance, etc.

I'll just leave this here. http://www.thefreedictionary.com/placebo+effect
 
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Grandavi

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Sep 25, 2008
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From my understanding (and please correct me if I am wrong), the factory ECU has a "stumble code" inserted for self diagnosis. The engine doesn't misfire, but it regularly stumbles at idle (about every 10 seconds if I remember right). I noticed this on my 7M (ran perfectly fine, just did a little "bup" at regular intervals during idle). When I asked about this, I was told that the stock ECU has a "stumble code" inserted.

Wondering if anyone else has this information?


remember.. this isn't a "mis-fire" its just a smooth idle with a "bup"... (that's the best I can describe the sound). Every single 7MGTE I have had did it exactly the same.