DREADED CODE 41. Wont go away. First startup issues too.

[aheroicrevolt]

Alright I have a 7mgte that I rebuilt and added all sorts of goodies.
Walbro, 255s, lexus afm, 3 inch downpipe and exhaust, hx40 t4 turbo, external gate, boost controller, SAFC2 piggyback, 3 inch intercooler and piping, aeromotive AFPR, deleted EGR stuff, relocated alternator and did a front facing intake manifold. This is the throttle body I bought.>>>> THROTTLE BODY
First question, that throttle body SEALS, it has no place drilled out around the plate for air to pass around it while idleing closed....is that an issue? Or should my Idle air valve work and be compensating for that sealed closed throttlebody?

I have put a BRAND NEW t.p.s. on it and calibrated it with feeler gauges. per this writeup>> CYGNUS
At .879 feeler gauge (closest i had to .9) the signal was blipping back and forth from Infinite to .0050 and that's the best I could get it.

I put it on the car and I still have code 41. I also have 22 because I don't have the thermostat sensor hooked up right now.
The car wont start, just cranks and cranks and cranks. Does not change sound weather I hit the gas while cranking (throttle open) or throttle closed.

I have set the SAFC2 set to Karman,6, and upper right. I have the Aeromotive AFPR at 35lbs, I verified I the fuel pump is working by using a jumper wire. I have yet to check Spark. and I have yet to use the timing light to set at *10 because it wont run...But I'm thinking it has to do with this code 41.

Where to go from here?

 

[Nick M]

41 is not a TPS adjustment. It means the signal is outside its range. 22 will give you a default of near operating temps. Why not check for spark?

 

[3p141592654]

41 is a wiring issue to the TPS (or the TPS is bad) but is not the cause of your no start. Code 22 will make it hard to start (defaults to 80 degrees C), but is also not your main problem. You need to check for fuel and spark. Run some ether into the booster hose.

 

[jetjock]

I'll never understand why people ask for help knowing codes are present. Makes no sense. Also not sure why 41 is "dreaded". There's only three conditions that cause it. Just check each one until you find which is responsible.

 

[aheroicrevolt]

I'll never understand why people ask for help knowing codes are present. Makes no sense. Also not sure why 41 is "dreaded". There's only three conditions that cause it. Just check each one until you find which is responsible.

what are the three conditions that cause it? From what ive been reading it meant the tps was not calibrated properly. But I now know that it is because i verified it with a multimeter. What else causes code 41? Ill use search up there, but maybe you guys are faster.

I have tested for spark and have it on all 6 cylinders although cylinder 1 seemed to be inconsistent, the light did not have a good patrern to it.

I might have figured it out. It might be fuel pump issue. I can jump the terminals in the box and get it to run, but with turning the key i dont think its kicking on. I did the 12v Mod with my walbro install, just because everyone said to do it....i dont know what it does for me? And maybe that is whats fucking it all up?
The pump should kick on regardless of 12v or not even with car in Diag mode correct?

 

[3p141592654]

It seems you do not know what the codes mean. You are confusing 51 with 41. This will help.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=28

 

[GC89]

I might have figured it out. It might be fuel pump issue. I can jump the terminals in the box and get it to run, but with turning the key i dont think its kicking on. I did the 12v Mod with my walbro install, just because everyone said to do it....i dont know what it does for me? And maybe that is whats fucking it all up?
The pump should kick on regardless of 12v or not even with car in Diag mode correct?

Cant really answer that without knowing how you did your wiring for the 12v mod.

If the factory hot wire for the fuel pump is still in place then yes, the diag block jumper will still run the pump and obviously it must be if you were able to get the pump ti run this way.


Sounds like your going to have some tracing to do.

 

[aheroicrevolt]

I appreciate all the help gentleman. An open circuit problem with tps sensor huh? Then why does my SAFC2 still give me readings on the tps?.....i wish someone was around Grand Rapids to help me. I'm literally the only Supra nut around here and I am still learning. Came from Ford.

Does anyone have an answer to my Throttle body question? about it being Completely sealed when closed and if thats an issue. My fords have small bypass holes cut into the throttle body wall... to still allow enough air to idle when closed.

Anyway, onto tracing fuel pump power with key on. If the car is in accessory mode, there should be power all the way back to the pump correct? Which wire would have to have a break in it, in order for the ignition to not give power, but the Diag box TO give power?
I guess I'm asking what gets bypassed when running the jumper wire in the Diag?

 

[GC89]

1. No the TB is completely closed at idle, idle is controlled by the IAC valve on the manifold.

2. Also No, fp relay is triggered by starter relay > circuit opening relay > fp relay when key is in cranking position only. After engine starts and key is returned to on position, the ecu sends a signal to keep the relay closed as long as the engine is running based on a signal from the ignitor irrc?

 

[Nick M]

2. Also No, fp relay is triggered by starter relay > circuit opening relay > fp relay when key is in cranking position only. After engine starts and key is returned to on position, the ecu sends a signal to keep the relay closed as long as the engine is running based on a signal from the ignitor irrc?

The IGf signals spark confirmation and injection can continue. The circuit opening relay is commanded on with the STA signal and after the engine pickup signal (Ne). Ne is rpm.

 

[GC89]

^ thanks, been a long week and I wasn't in the mood to look that up to refresh on the specific signals.

 

[aheroicrevolt]

Alright so i took a few videos.
The car will stumble to life eventually, but in 5 seconds of "idleing" it detects 27 knocks as seen in the end of video 1.

https://youtu.be/UJapRySiLtg

the car will only "start" when i am wide open throttle too.
Should i be adding a ton of fuel on startup because i upgraded to a 90mm throttle body? Rail pressure is 35lbs

I fairly sure it is not rod knock, but spark knock that it is reading. Still this meses with timing and is a huge issue!

 

[jetjock]

Still have code 22? With that new TB is the ISCV still on the car? Does the fuel pump come on when cranking?

 

[aheroicrevolt]

--Yes code 22 is still active.
--I also read that a certain instance will cause code 12 to flash ONLY while cranking. Code 12 mess's with timing. I havent watched codes while cranking tho.
--That info I found here>>> http://www.mkiiitech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=843

--Yes pump is cranking and fuel rail is at about 30 lbs while cranking. Should I set the AFPR higher?

--Yes my Idle control valve is still connected to the Intake manifold. But I think that intake is my biggest problem. With that HUGE throttle body, and HUGE front facing manifold....things aren't computing and flowing how they are supposed to.
But if the issue was TO MUCH air because everything was bigger....then why would it only start when throttle is wide open?

 

[jetjock]

Seriously? Ah well. Good luck with it...

 

[aheroicrevolt]

LOL don't give up on me! Who's in the Grand Rapids Area? If you're in the Chicago area I'll pay for gas and buy beers and pizza while your here.

 

[GC89]

What size injectors?

Also shouldn't you have the SAFC wired to a power source that does not lose power during cranking?

 

[3p141592654]

So if I read between the lines correctly you added all this stuff and it has has never run correctly since. That means pretty much anything could be wrong.

First you need to fix the code 22. Its not going to warm up properly without a coolant temp sensor.

Assuming you have 550cc injectors, if it was me, I would also get that SAFC out of the loop by removing it and going back stock.

 

[atmperformance]

So if I read between the lines correctly you added all this stuff and it has has never run correctly since. That means pretty much anything could be wrong.

First you need to fix the code 22. Its not going to warm up properly without a coolant temp sensor.

Assuming you have 550cc injectors, if it was me, I would also get that SAFC out of the loop by removing it and going back stock.

this has been the most honest straight forward answer in this thread. go with it

 

[aheroicrevolt]

I thkught the Lexus AFM was supposed to offest getting 550's? That if you installed them both then it evens itself out?
My sparkplugs are black....which means a rich issue but how can that be!?
With this giant Throttlebody and manifold, im still rich by putting in 550s?