I'll say this... I don't like putting more wear than necessary on the throw bearing in the clutch assembly, so the times that my clutch is in are extremely limited.
DECELERATION - Clutch ENGAGED or NOT?
- Thread starter crisp
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jetjock;1539684 said:
Can I ask how you would handle a particular situation? Lets say you are coming to an intersection and the light turns red leaving you plenty of time to stop. Will you clutch in, shift to N and clutch out while applying the brake coming to a stop? Will you downshift and speed/gear match while braking until you are at a stop? Maybe you gear/speed match but keep the clutch pedal pressed the entire time while braking to a stop?
I never feel comfortable shifting to N in case I need to accelerate again. Even in the above example I would not feel right being in N while rolling. I'm just wondering if I'm paranoid or is the correct thing to do would be shift in N and not be in gear coming to a stop.
Brake pads are cheaper than clutches (and thrust bearings if you run a stage 3.) I just push the shift lever into neutral when coming to a stop, "heel toe" when down shifting through a corner and never hold the clutch in while waiting at a stop or rest my foot on the pedal while driving.
KMinAF;1540004 said:
I had a friend who burned through two clutches on his SUV before a mechanic finally asked if he rested his foot on the pedal. My friend said he never thought that slight bit of pressure made a difference but it did.
Poodles;1539677 said:
Same in Cali, they tell you that you'll get points off in the behind the wheel test if you don't leave it in gear.
supramk3speed;1539741 said:
And it would wear out the throw bearing...
GrimJack;1539958 said:
...which I also avoid doing.
iwannadie;1540027 said:
I don't do it, but I also didn't know that that could happen, good to know anyways.
If I'm in first I'll put it in neutral and let go of the pedal, unless I'm inline for a stop sign, which in that case I'll leave it in first. If I'm in second it depends on if I have enough room to let go of the trottle slow enough to keep the car from jerking back and forth.
While true, this is also why it's a good idea to match RPM while downshifting - less wear on the clutch.KMinAF;1540004 said:
I had my tranny rebuilt, the guy asked me if I down shift to help stop. I said yes, he said, yeah, I can tell, your second gear is mushroomed from down shifting.
I'm in neutral when I'm at a stop.
I'm in neutral when I'm at a stop.
If i was going to a road course of course i would down shift to slow down. I think its better as a measuring tool as well, you can judge corner distance better by doing downshifts. As for neutral slow downs, its just a quick kick to the clutch and a move of the gearstick to put it back in gear, not hard. If you don't have enough time to do that you probably didn't have enough time to react anyways.
Does the engine cut fuel completely on decel? I've never heard about this.Dirgle;1539689 said:
It seems he only bothers to chime in to imply that he knows while others do not...crisp;1539833 said:
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I've heard some BS over the years but that's up there.....Koenigturbo;1540058 said:
Not sure on the stock strategy but most cut down to xx road speed yy rpm, I found a full cut in my car with the thin JE ring pack caused excessive Oil consumption so set it up to have a lean map on trailing throttle, much the same gains in economy but enough fuel injected to maintain cylinder pressure.tekdeus;1540070 said:
Some people have an abrasive sense of humor.tekdeus;1540070 said:
What if he's stoking the fire of debate, or just a pessimist wondering what new fad will come of this discussion?
Ask a smart question and you might get a worthwhile answer
tekdeus;1540070 said:
I don't remember for sure on the 7M but on my 2JZ it cuts fuel on decel if the throttle is closed and the engine is above 1500 rpm. Once the RPM's drop below 1500 you can hear the fuel kick back on by a sudden change in the exhaust note and the wideband coming back online.
Dirgle;1540119 said:
Same kind of thing on the 7M, although it might be running a small amount of fuel... not enough to read better than 20+ AFR on the wideband, though.
Dirgle;1540119 said:
Yep this is spot on, the car pulls fuel when decelerating above 1500 rpm. On my car Fuel does not come back on line until 1200 rpm, but if you let off throttle between 1200 and 1500 it will not pull fuel and the exhaust will make a popping/gurgling noise while coasting down when this is happening.
I too am somebody who downshifts at every stop and rev matches, and normally I will heel toe as well (brake and rev match together). Doing it all the time has made me quite good and made it second nature when out on a real race track.
always engine brake and heel/toe downshift+revmatch,
downspool on a straight piped car sounds too sick to pass up.
downspool on a straight piped car sounds too sick to pass up.
Shift neutral and stop. Down shift to stop fast. Rev match when necessary. Double clutch sometimes.
Most autos up shift and then down shift through all the gears at low rpms until your almost stopped and then it shifts into first.
Between constantly shifting at low rpms and idling for 10-15 sec coming to a light there really is not that much to be saved in gas imo.
Most autos up shift and then down shift through all the gears at low rpms until your almost stopped and then it shifts into first.
Between constantly shifting at low rpms and idling for 10-15 sec coming to a light there really is not that much to be saved in gas imo.
If the car is moving and I'm not shifting gears, the clutch is engaged and engine connected. To slow down I heel-toe through the gears as I brake to keep the engine under control, coming to a stop in 2nd gear. Even if I was only doing 30mph.
The exception is an emergency stop, in which case I dive the brakes and follow with the clutch a moment later so the engine doesn't stall, especially if I was cruising in 5th gear. This is important because you may require the presence of mind to make it into 1st and launch hard immediately after coming to a stop... or get run over by a semi for example. Having to start the engine AND make it into 1st gear and get out of the way is a recipie for disaster.
Either way, if the car is moving forward faster than walking speed (regardless of acceleration or deceleration), the clutch should be fully engaged at all times, as far as I know and have been taught.
The exception is an emergency stop, in which case I dive the brakes and follow with the clutch a moment later so the engine doesn't stall, especially if I was cruising in 5th gear. This is important because you may require the presence of mind to make it into 1st and launch hard immediately after coming to a stop... or get run over by a semi for example. Having to start the engine AND make it into 1st gear and get out of the way is a recipie for disaster.
Either way, if the car is moving forward faster than walking speed (regardless of acceleration or deceleration), the clutch should be fully engaged at all times, as far as I know and have been taught.
Well, this is my first manual car. So Im not with all the lingo...what is heel toe and what do you mean by rev matching? Sorry Im a noob on that.
I downshift when coming to a light, and if I have to stop kind of quick I downshift and use the brake. I was told to learn how to downshift because it helps you ALOT in the snow. I dont know how much truth there is in that though. So help?? please.
I downshift when coming to a light, and if I have to stop kind of quick I downshift and use the brake. I was told to learn how to downshift because it helps you ALOT in the snow. I dont know how much truth there is in that though. So help?? please.