Dashboard (safety pad) removal
- Thread starter swaq
- Start date
Alright thanks, I'll probably tackle it today.ValgeKotkas;1320782 said:There aren't any problems with the barWith ratchet it's easy.
swaq;1320573 said:
Yeah, there are 2 bolts that hold the steering column up. I think they may be 17mm and you do have to use an extension to get to them. Drop the steering column... it helps a bunch when you actually pull the dash out.
The bar is not too hard. Where you have a fight on your hands is going to be with pulling the heater core out. Don't forget that it runs through the firewall. Getting any of those white boxes out is a pain in the ass.
Yes what FT said, and try not to brake the connecting plastic between the radbox and the center box (I broke mine )
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Yeah, those were 17mm, the rest were 12mm. At first I missed the two at the top of the bar near the steering column, but overall it wasn't too bad. It's out now. There were also a couple clusters of wires that had to be detached and then there was a spring (why?) that needed to be unhooked.Satan;1320815 said:
ForcedTorque;1320818 said:
Hmm, sounds tricky. First I need to take care of the styrofoam bits that got into the fins during shipping of the new heater core...ValgeKotkas;1320885 said:Yes what FT said, and try not to brake the connecting plastic between the radbox and the center box (I broke mine
I've starting messing with the white boxes now. From my initial glance it looks like I need to take out the middle of the three to get out the one in front of (with?) the heater core. I've taken out four bolts and three nuts that looked liked they were holding this box in. It feels a bit loose now, but doesn't feel like it will pull right out. Do I need to take out all the boxes at the same time? Is it enough to have the middle one loose in order to get out the one on the left? Am I missing something else?
Thanks again. I can see why the shop wanted to charge about $1000 for this job...
Thanks again. I can see why the shop wanted to charge about $1000 for this job...
Yes, just loosen up the middle one, then with some twisting and wiggling around, the first one comes out
IIRC getting it in again was a bit harder, but nothing unaccomplishable (at least not when you do it for the second time )
IIRC getting it in again was a bit harder, but nothing unaccomplishable
(at least not when you do it for the second time )Do you have a pic of the ECU mounted under the dash before you pulled it out? I pulled mine and can't for the life of me figure out where the mounting tabs line up.
Thanks, I got it out! Quite a bit of twisting and wiggling required.ValgeKotkas;1321590 said:Yes, just loosen up the middle one, then with some twisting and wiggling around, the first one comes out
IIRC getting it in again was a bit harder, but nothing unaccomplishable
Sorry, I didn't take a picture before I pulled them out.supradragontoy;1321596 said:
So I now have the white box with the heater core out. I assume I just unbolt the pipes and then pull it straight out, is this correct?
Also, when the shop bypassed my heater core they mangled up the pipes leading to and from the heater core (see attached pictures). I thought that my replacement heater core would include these two pipes, but it's obvious now that it doesn't. I assume these should be replaced instead of wrestled back into shape. Thoughts?
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swaq;1321678 said:
That's cool, I figured it out.
Your new heater core should stick out of the box and through the firewall. Then there are two pipes off the motor that connect via rubber hoses to the heater core. I have my motor out and dash off if you need any pics of anything, just let me know. And yeah, just unbolt the nuts and bolts holding the box to the firewall and it'll slide back. I can't remember but I think there are to 10mm bolts on the engine bay side that need to be taken out, right between the pipes coming through the firewall.
My new heater core doesn't include the full lengths of piping to go through the firewall.
I didn't have to undo anything from the engine bay to get the box out. Though my heater core had already been bypassed, so if there was something it could have been undone then.
I didn't have to undo anything from the engine bay to get the box out. Though my heater core had already been bypassed, so if there was something it could have been undone then.
swaq;1321721 said:
Does your heater core connect inside the box to the pipes that go through the firewall? Weird. Your sure you got the right one? See if another parts store has one and compare it.
No, it has short pipes that connect to the two longer parts. The top looks identical to my old one, so I'm pretty sure I got the right one.supradragontoy;1321738 said:
swaq;1321767 said:
Hmm. Try using a round tapered punch. There's another name for it too, but I can't remember it. It's basically a punch that tapers, derrr:aigo:. Drive that into the old pipes that run into the engine bay and it'll put them round again. Harbor Freight probably has something, considering your only gonna use it a handful of times in your life.
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Yes only those couple of screws hold it in.
Yes, round it out with a smaller pipe or something (we did it on one car too). After that, test whether there are smaaallll cracks or not, me thinks.
Look carefully, after putting those pipes on another core, that they don't leak inbetween the connection.
While you're there, look inside the box too. Mine was full of crap and shit on the walls, so I dismanteled and cleaned it.
Yes, round it out with a smaller pipe or something (we did it on one car too). After that, test whether there are smaaallll cracks or not, me thinks.
Look carefully, after putting those pipes on another core, that they don't leak inbetween the connection.
While you're there, look inside the box too. Mine was full of crap and shit on the walls, so I dismanteled and cleaned it.
Yeah, you want to be VERY careful about verifying that the joint where the firewall pipes meet the heater core pipes don't leak. A lot of times a heater core itself will be fine and it's those joints which are actually leaking. So speaking for myself I'd try and find some used pipe sections from someone rather than trying to round-out those damaged pipes and risking having to pull the dash again to fix bad seals on them. Those are just too beat up for my comfort level. JMHO.
While you're cleaning out your heater box you might want to replace some of the foam panels which have undoubtedly degraded into dust by now. Your box will seal better and you'll get better air-flow in the various A/C and heat modes.
While you're cleaning out your heater box you might want to replace some of the foam panels which have undoubtedly degraded into dust by now. Your box will seal better and you'll get better air-flow in the various A/C and heat modes.
mirage83;1322186 said:
Perhaps consider going to a Grover's or Fluid Connectors to have them bend you up some new piping. They might even be able to solder the joints together for you. They can flare and bend the piping anyway you need. The foam can just be your run of the mill home insulation adhesive foam sealer. Wal-Mart carries it. I've used it before and it does seal great.
