Currently Removing Head

kemicalx

BHGBTDT
Dec 12, 2005
103
0
0
Geelong, Vic
Hey guys,

Only new here, but very stoked theres a 7m specific forum, i look forward to having a good read through it all and am sure it will become a vital recourse of mine. So i hope you don't mind that i don't actually have a Supra :icon_razz


I picked up an mz21 a few months back, and in under a week of owning it blew the headgasket, anyway i'm currently taking the head off but have hit a snag, i've removed everything as far as i can tell needed to get the head away from the block, once all the head studs are removed how hard should it be to remove the head? I haven't been overly brutal, but it still feels pretty tight on there. I don't really want to go reefing on it incase it does come free and i gouge a nice deep scratch across the contact surface. Also is it ok to pry the head between the ribbing on the head/block?

Thanks everyone any help would be greatly appreciated.
Ashlin.
 

Dirgle

Conjurer of Boost
Mar 30, 2005
1,632
0
36
41
Pauma Valley, CA
All are welcome here. The mz21? That’s an 89-90 Soarer right?

This site will probably be your best friend. It may be for a supra but you will find plenty of stuff for the 7M.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/index.html

For the head removal start here and go through one by one to make sure you got everything.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/em/EM_34.html

Sometimes the head doesn’t want to come off but there is a pry point, just make sure everything is disconnected that need to be disconnected.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/em/EM_39.html

Also, if you didn’t know, the toyota torque spec for headbolts is to low, it's the main cause of blown head gaskets(BHG’s). Toyota states 52 ft/lbs. But it has been shone that at least 76 ft/lbs. is required for reliability. More if your using a MHG/ARPs combo.

Welcome to this site. There is a lot of info here, and if you don’t find what you need by searching then feel free to ask.
 
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kemicalx

BHGBTDT
Dec 12, 2005
103
0
0
Geelong, Vic
cheers buddy though i already printed out most of the soarer relivant stuff on that site and made a work manual lol,

As far as i can tell it's ready to come off, just want to know what sort of effort it usually takes.

I'll definatly be getting the head shaved (presuming it isn't warped beyond repair) the block decked and the cylinders will most likely need to be honed, i have a feeling the piston rings may have coroded
as the pistons have been s
ubmerged in coolant for a while now :S

however once its all fixed with a mhg and arp studs torqued correctly it shouldn't cause any grief in the future. I really don't want this to happen again :icon_razz
 

Dirgle

Conjurer of Boost
Mar 30, 2005
1,632
0
36
41
Pauma Valley, CA
Cool, then it looks like you have a pretty good grasp on what you need to do. On mine I used an engine hoist to pull it off. Overkill yes, but I was the only one doing it. The head alone is heavy enough to warrant two people doing it, just so you don't scratch stuff.

I would break the seal at the pry point, and then have two people remove it. And yes, it does take a fair amount to force to break the seal. I've also seen two people, one on each side of the head, rock it back and forth to break the seal.
 

kemicalx

BHGBTDT
Dec 12, 2005
103
0
0
Geelong, Vic
Holy mother of god! That rebuild looks amazing :O

Btw, thanks dirgle that’s exactly the info I’m after, my mates and I will attempt to remove it tomorrow then. :)
 

kemicalx

BHGBTDT
Dec 12, 2005
103
0
0
Geelong, Vic
it's an 86 two tone whitey/gold pearl GT Limited the ones packed with all the electronic goodies, motorised steering, seats, touch lcd climite control, tv etc unfortunatly most of it doesn't work atm, but i'm going to try and get it all up and running again. IJ, couldn't have been me my Soarer has been out of action for a while now.