common problems for code 51....

[supra4ever68]

So i installed my new tps and it idles perfectly now...i just need to fix my knock sensors with a rewire... do any of you know any common problems for code 51?? just thought i'd throw that out...hope some guys can specify some parts or wires...thanks!

 

[Nick M]

Actually, for the engine and not A/C, there is only one problem with 51. The idle contacts are open during diagnostic testing.

 

[suprasnd]

So i installed my new tps and it idles perfectly now...i just need to fix my knock sensors with a rewire... do any of you know any common problems for code 51?? just thought i'd throw that out...hope some guys can specify some parts or wires...thanks!

[/I]


I did the rewire on my car after I bought it cause of code 51- 52. I worked for a while. Then it started happening again. I ended up putting a JDM 7M and when I did I replaced the wiring harness. The JDM engine also had the knock sensors in place. I have not had a code thrown for quite sometime now.

Just my 2cents:
Keith

 

[silvergsx623]

My supra was throwing a code 51 and i did a search and came up with one of JJ's posts. I adjusted the bump stop screw, and problem solved!

I thought i was going to have to buy a new ISC because my idle was high but with his post i was able to solve the problem.

 

[supra4ever68]

My supra was throwing a code 51 and i did a search and came up with one of JJ's posts. I adjusted the bump stop screw, and problem solved!

I thought i was going to have to buy a new ISC because my idle was high but with his post i was able to solve the problem.

how do i adjust that freaking screw...i was trying for like an hour today and couldn't get it to move...and tell me what size wrench also so i don't eat it up...thanks!

 

[Supra87T]

code 51 means tps is out of adjustment and adjusting the bump stop is not how one adjusts it.

 

[supra4ever68]

it COULD be the tps...i know it's not because i bought one off a junker and it worked way better than the other tps...which will only let me get to 1800 rpm and then drop down to 1,000...so i think it is the stop srew...it is too tight but i just need to know an easy way to loosen it without removing anything if possible...and also the size of the screw if anyone knows...thanks all!

 

[supra4ever68]

bump...anyone have any input please?? i can go work on it right now

 

[jetjock]

It'd help if you were clearer about just what you're trying to resolve. Your first post mentions code 51 and refers to the knock sensors which set code 52. Which code do you actually have? For 51 see my post in the SME Electrical Section. For 52 search.

 

[supra4ever68]

It'd help if you were clearer about just what you're trying to resolve. Your first post mentions code 51 and refers to the knock sensors which set code 52. Which code do you actually have? For 51 see my post in the SME Electrical Section. For 52 search.

i know what to do for my code 52...i just got the code 51 when i installed my new tps well used but in very good condition...and it removed my 41 code so i don't know if the tps is still bad or if i need to loosen that bolt...i think it is way too tight because there is no space but i just don't know how to get to it without having to remove the whole thing...

 

[supra4ever68]

bump...anyone else got any input please?? i can go do something right now thats why i am asking...

 

[Nick M]

How much more do you possibly need on 51?

 

[Supra87T]

we've already told you exactly what to do, code 51 means your tps is out of adjustment.

Check here:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=101

 

[zachm611]

removing the TB is relatively easy. take it off and adjust it that way.

 

[supra4ever68]

i did and i left a little space in between...still has code 51.......it was too tight before and i could see light through the throttle valve...so i loosened it till i couldn't

 

[supra4ever68]

bump...

 

[Supra87T]

did you even read the tsrm? what are you talking about seeing light through the throttle vavle? you don't mess with that stop screw. you adjust the tps by loosening the 2 screws on it and moving it until you get idl continuity with the throttle closed and no continuity when the throttle is opened.

 

[supra4ever68]

the freaking throttle wasn't able to close fully because of the stop screw...that is what i was looking at...the throttle valve wasn't fully closed so i loosened the stop screw till it could close...with what setting do i find the contnuity...i can get a regular ohmeter from school...one pretty much the same as this one: http://kahuna.sdsu.edu/~johnston/conductivity_probe_files/ohmeter2.jpg

 

[smagnotta]

A better meter for this test is an analog one with the needle - cheap $6 at Walmart. The TSRM speaks of when it "deflects", in other words when the meter's needle moves.

Do you have anything that can test the voltage of the TPS when the throttle body is closed? For example my SAFC has a Sensor Check feature and lists the TPS voltage at .501 volts when the throttle is closed. I do not have the code 51 anymore.

When I had the code 51, the voltage was at .650 (too high) and .395 (too low) with the throttle closed. Once it was adjusted and the code went away I checked the voltage and it was at .501. I don't know the exact range of what is acceptable but I think .498 to .507 volts closed is a good one.

Tip: Code 51 is a real-time code and clears itself so you do not have to pull the EFI fuse to clear the code when you see it.

 

[supra4ever68]

A better meter for this test is an analog one with the needle - cheap $6 at Walmart. The TSRM speaks of when it "deflects", in other words when the meter's needle moves.

Do you have anything that can test the voltage of the TPS when the throttle body is closed? For example my SAFC has a Sensor Check feature and lists the TPS voltage at .501 volts when the throttle is closed. I do not have the code 51 anymore.

When I had the code 51, the voltage was at .650 (too high) and .395 (too low) with the throttle closed. Once it was adjusted and the code went away I checked the voltage and it was at .501. I don't know the exact range of what is acceptable but I think .498 to .507 volts closed is a good one.

Tip: Code 51 is a real-time code and clears itself so you do not have to pull the EFI fuse to clear the code when you see it.

but can i still use a regular ohmeter??