cold start injector permanant removal...

[kracin]

well, i was wondering if there was anything special needed besides a plug in the original spot in the manifold needed in order to remove the cold start injector? do 2 wires need to be grounded on the harness plug to prevent a code from being thrown?

input would be helpful from guys who have done it for different manifold installs and high hp applications.

 

[jimi87-t]

Are you running a standalone? I guess not if you are worried about codes.
I forgot to plug in my CSI once and the car would barely run when cold, didnt throw any codes, just ran like ass.

The engine needs this added fuel when cold (like a choke on a carburetor). Just unplug it and see what you are up against by removing it
Unless you have someway of tuning in more fuel when cold, but you would probably need to be running a standalone to do so....

 

[kracin]

Are you running a standalone? I guess not if you are worried about codes.
I forgot to plug in my CSI once and the car would barely run when cold, didnt throw any codes, just ran like ass.

The engine needs this added fuel when cold (like a choke on a carburetor). Just unplug it and see what you are up against by removing it
Unless you have someway of tuning in more fuel when cold, but you would probably need to be running a standalone to do so....

maft pro on speed density... so itll be running closed loop until WOT

 

[jdub]

Are you running a standalone? I guess not if you are worried about codes.
I forgot to plug in my CSI once and the car would barely run when cold, didnt throw any codes, just ran like ass.

The engine needs this added fuel when cold (like a choke on a carburetor). Just unplug it and see what you are up against by removing it
Unless you have someway of tuning in more fuel when cold, but you would probably need to be running a standalone to do so....

It wasn't because of the CSI your car ran like crap cold...the CSI only operates during engine cranking (starter engaged, STA active). The time switch limits the amount of fuel delivered by the CSI during start to prevent flooding. It's sole purpose is to add additional fuel to get the engine cranked cold. Once started, the CSI is inactive.

There is no code associated with the CSI.

Operation of the CSI is based on coolant temp. In a warm climate, the motor may be slightly harder to start. More likely, you will not even notice it's gone. Cold climate, different story...you need it.

 

[jimi87-t]

Thanks for the info jdub. I wonder what it was then, once I plugged it back in it ran fine (only ran for < min unplugged) and it was the only time it happened.

 

[jdub]

Got me on that one...could be several things. (ISCV, ECU temp sensor, FP regulator). I can say with 100&#37; accuracy it was not the CSI once the engine was running.

 

[jetjock]

He's right jimi. Stops working the moment the key is released from start. Has to, there's no other source of power for it.

OP: All you need to do is plug the manifold and fuel supply. Leave the wires floating (grounding them would be bad)...the ECU knows not about the injector.

 

[jimi87-t]

Oh believe me, I trust what both of you guys say!
It was the first start after the rebuild, (about 3 years ago), could have been air in fuel system or something of the sort..I have no clue, but at least now I know it wasn't the CSI

 

[ForcedTorque]

ECU learning idle maybe? Or are you standalone?



I need to spend an evening in your build!

 

[kracin]

awesome, thanks for the info. good to know that i could safely eliminate it and just use a fuel pressure gauge instead, but if i ever have to put it back on i do have a spot for it on my FFIM, just prefer to not spend the money right now on braided steel lines and fittings to get it hooked up when theres no need for where i live right now. hawaii and cold temps... not happening unless i try to cold start my car at 3am on the north shore lol