Well that looks like D2 or Ksports or probably any other of the low budget coilover setups.
1. Inverted shock design: I'm assuming this means for the front and for macpherson strut cars. An inverted strut is stronger because the beam in bending is the actual shock body and not the shaft. A strut is a shock that is a locating suspension member, without the strut the suspension would not hold a position. Supras do not have strut suspensions. And this is not an issue for cars with shock setups. A shock isn't required to position the wheel. You can invert a shock and this is usually done to decrease the unsprung inertia of the corner. It takes less energy to compress the damper when the shaft end is getting moved upward than when the body end is getting moved upwards.
2. This is also meant for Macpherson strut suspensions. The strut attaches to the spindle with mounting ears at the bottom of the assembly. My making these ears longer, it puts the shock at a more upright angle and gives a little extra wheel/tire clearance. It also increases the bending loads on the strut due to spring compression and has some other effects on the geometry.
3. This really depends on what they mean by a helper spring. I've always known helper springs to be very low rate (near zero) springs that are fully compressed when the car is on the ground and will extrend when the car is in the air to keep the spring seated. This really have no effect on stability or traction. It just allows you to sit the car a little lower without the risk of the spring falling out of place if a wheel is ever lifted. So a helper spring like this will really have no effect on driving. If the "helper spring" that they're using is of a little bit stiffer of a rate, it could act the same when the vehicle is on the ground and the suspension is loaded, but it could also help to keep the wheel on the ground is the suspension becomes unloaded during driving. But even at that point, it's not going to do that much for grip.
There are some cool dual spring setups out there, but I doubt these companies are doing anything like that.
4. This probably means that they don't know what's actually inside the damper, they were just told it was heavy duty and they think that sounds better. But it could have to do with the seals and that they're stronger and won't leak or that they're just saying that.
5. This means that they put 6 tick marks on their adjuster and you can turn it 6 times. Or 9 tick marks and you can turn it 4 times. This doesn't really tell you much about the adjustability. And since it's only going through a needle valve on a cheap damper, most of the adjustment range is going to be bad. This much adjustment or this type of range, is usually more of a marketing thing than anything. They appeal to the people who don't know that much and say that you can adjust it a lot, so that people will think it's good. I have played with adjusters on cheaper dampers and I have played with adjusters on high-end dampers. There is one major difference, the cheap ones don't work and the high-end ones do. It does come down to you get what you pay for. A needle valve needs to be a very precise piece and at the cost they sell these cheaper setups for, you can't expect to get the quality needed to allow the needle valve to work properly or even have the same affects on the valving as the one on the other side of the car.
6. I love how this is phrased. I'm hoping it's just language barrier/translation problems, but it's funny how they act like they're adding T6 to aluminum. T6 is just a designation for the heat treatment that material recieved. But the way it is phrased, they make it sound like something that got mixed in with the metal.
7. This means that the adjuster will adjust rebound and compression at the same time. This isn't a good thing. A good adjuster will adjust one side of the curve and leave the other side of the curve almost untouched. So an adjuster that will just adjust rebound is better than one that will adjust both at the same time. The problem is that the amount of rebound and compression should be set up based on the actual car they are going on. With big companies, they'll make an assumption of what weights and setups the car is running and valve them like that, if they even put that much work in, which I doubt for most places. But if that base curve is not set up right, then by adjusting both rebound and compression at the same time, there's a very good chance that you will only be able to get one side of the curve right at any given time and that's assuming that you can even do that.
8. This just means that you can move the lower spring perch to adjust the height fo the car. This will also affect the preload on the spring.
9. This means that you can adjust the overall length of the assembly without affecting suspension travel. It is a nice feature when you're marketing the same setup to a ton of different people who will all use it differently. But if people were to buy a good damper setup, it would only have height adjustability at the spring but the overall length of the damper would be setup for their car already. The dual height adjustment is a good way to use the same components for a lot of cars, which is a good thing for the manufacturer, but probably a bad thing for the consumer. I mean look at any true high end setup, Penske, Ohlins, Bilstein, etc. they only have a single height adjustment.
10. Another note for Macpherson strut cars. By adjusting the position of the top mount of a macP strut car, you can adjust the camber. This is the same as moving the upper control arm pivots on the supra. Pillow ball is just the JDM way of saying spherical bearing. So a setup like this for a shock car will not be able to adjust camber, but may come with bearings in the upper mounts.
11. I think this only means that because the normal point of leakage in a damper is put inside another tube when inverted for macpherson strut cars, you will not see the signs of leaking until it gets really bad. At least that's how it reads to me. They could be trying to say that they used different seals on the inverted setups and they're stronger and will not wear as quickly as other seals. Or the fact that an inverted setup will put the loads on the shock body and not the shaft and when loading the shaft directly, the seals will wear quicker.
12. This just means that coated it so it will look shiny and not get nasty too quickly.
Well I hope that answered your questions, let me know if there is anything else you need explained.
Tim
