Code 11, and my engine keeps shutting off whilst driving.

[legolyle]

Well, I'm not too well versed in repair techniques for a wiring harness I suppose. Part of me thinks it'd be easier and more reliable (that's more of a given) to just replace the offending wire.
Unfortunately I'll come back to that in a minute.

I discovered today at the worst possible time that the code 11 and the car shutting off randomly... Are unrelated. Just so happens I had that code when something else is wrong. It did it to me this morning on the way to a final exam. Only code I found is a 27, due to missing the sub oxygen sensor. I know there's a perfectly good explanation, but man this is frustrating. It ran flawlessly all last week, no codes (except for the 27), then today boom.
The car was idling a bit low. Like. I'd say about 550-600 rpm. Gonna take a look through the tsrm, but any hints on where I could start seeing as there is no nannying from the ecu to help me? My first thoughts move to distributor or some such.
Back to the code 11 issue though. If it occurs sporadically, would it not be rather hard to find the actual fault in the wire?

 

[3p141592654]

For code 11, you can use divide and conquer strategy. Jumper half of the segment and so on to narrow down the offending hardware.

If you had an issue with the CPS wiring the ECU you would expect to see a code 13. The fact that you don't suggests an IGSW circuit issue, as that would not set a code, or a power supply problem to the coils or injectors.

 

[Nick M]

Part of me thinks it'd be easier and more reliable (that's more of a given) to just replace the offending wire.

That would be fine. Toyota sells the repair parts and shows how to put them in the connector with the correct splicing technique.

 

[jetjock]

...Part of me thinks it'd be easier and more reliable (that's more of a given) to just replace the offending wire...

Except odds are it's not the wire. Do as 3p suggested to narrow it down. Or do as I've suggested several times. It'll tell you exactly where the problem is. That said I'm done. Giving up. I tried. Didn't work. Next...

 

[legolyle]

I thank you for the help. I've never done any of what you two have described to me before. It sounds great in theory and I'm going to have to now, but because of the sporadic nature of the problem, I feel its going to a take a very long while. Mostly though I hate having to jumper stuff because I think it means I'll have to splice wires. I don't like splicing wires. That's the only reason I've been hesitant so far to jumper parts of circuit. But I will.

 

[jetjock]

Sigh. You don't have to splice anything. Think about it. Or test with a meter. No splicing there either.

 

[legolyle]

Well, you are correct, I can just eliminate components by bypassing them.
But, I had a quick question to help maybe narrow this down: Every time the car does this, the tach goes to 0 RPM. Now, that either means the tach is losing power, or, the tach is losing signal, correct?
Now, if it's losing power, then I can trace it back to that circuit. But, if it's losing signal, the only way for that to happen (in this case) would be if the ignitor (etc) was losing power as well. SO my question is, if the ignitor (circuit, from the ign sw) was losing power would the ecu throw a code? Remember, in this case the ECU still has power on +B/+B1 (due to it being bypassed by me). Where does the ECU actually get it's signal from to let it know the engine is running, and to turn on the main relay? I'm going to assume it wouldn't throw a code though.

Right now I'm trying to figure out which circuits to test. And again, I don't have a meter that reads min/max. I could get one, it sure would be useful, but I haven't yet. I mean if the issue is sporadic, I would think it's pointless to hook up a meter without min/max functionality.

For the time being, I'm gonna try and hook my arduino back up to the "I" line of the igsw circuit, or bypass it altogether. See if that's the issue. And look into getting a meter with min/max ability.