I was just checking the underneath of my car for damaged insulation. I usually clean it, treat it with phosphoric acid, por-15 then spray rubberized rockerguard. I am starting to dislike rubberized rockerguard because it does not adhere that well. When it bubbles it creates perfect saltwater pockets. Oil based products seem to be a bit too thin and tend to wash away. The PJ-1 o-ring lube(motorcycle chain lube) is sticky as hell and it does not wash away easily. Any one have any experience with it as a rust inhibitor?
Chain lube as rust inhibitor
- Thread starter daught
- Start date
Poodles;1183892 said:
I'd expect to hear something like that from someone who made of money such as yourself and can afford two cars...but us lower class folk have rent to pay, bills to pay and don't have help from moms and pops....
daught;1183869 said:
I wouldn't use it myself as dirt will stick to it....personally I would go with a better rock guard or rhino lineing type stuff...good luck
buckshotglass
I love all your sounds.
Sorry bud, but I'm broke, jobless, and my Supra is my only car (and a pic from the back is the only decent angle).
If I lived in a place that actually used salt (they use sand here when needed), I would buy a cheap $500 beater to keep the rust off my car.
It's not just going to be the undercoating, but the wheel wells, suspension, alignment adjusters, ect will all be seized/eaten.
It's your car, but I'd find something cheap that you don't care about getting eaten alive by the crap they put on the roads...
If I lived in a place that actually used salt (they use sand here when needed), I would buy a cheap $500 beater to keep the rust off my car.
It's not just going to be the undercoating, but the wheel wells, suspension, alignment adjusters, ect will all be seized/eaten.
It's your car, but I'd find something cheap that you don't care about getting eaten alive by the crap they put on the roads...
let's say you didn't live in tex...but you lived in Maine but was in the exact same situation your in now....how are you going to buy a $500 beater when you have debts to pay?
Other than that your post was much better than the first.
I just got a raise to $16 an hour with 15-20 overtime hours and yet I don't have the option of another car just yet...
Try to keep things in real world perspective while posting as some of use actually live in the real world.
Other than that your post was much better than the first.
I just got a raise to $16 an hour with 15-20 overtime hours and yet I don't have the option of another car just yet...
Try to keep things in real world perspective while posting as some of use actually live in the real world.
buckshotglass;1183992 said:
not lashing out....just trying to remind him that we be broke fuckers here LOL....one needs to look beyond the problems here and realize there is usually a reason why we drive 20 year old sports cars becides the fact they are win.
daught;1183869 said:
PJ1 BLUE label (super tacky and hard to clean)>? rust inhibitor not so good its made for chains but i don't know how well it will do on paint. check this out works awesome use it at work every day and it smells nice to .....http://www.monstermarketplace.com/Sports/Landing4a16940.html
I can borrow other cars if needed...
If I lived in a northern state I would never have sold my truck for the supra...
If I lived in a northern state I would never have sold my truck for the supra...
Winter beaters are not fun and sometimes downright dangerous. The Supra IMHO handles very well in snow and ice. It wont spin under braking and knows how to keep a line.
Also insurance in Ontario is ridiculous. Considering I have the Supra and a bike any other car would cost me at least an extra $150 a month. I rather put $500 in rust proofing every year.
Anyways back on topic. I will put a metal plate under my car. I will leave it unprotected for a month to rust. I will apply phosphoric acid then I will apply a bunch of different products in different areas. Lets see which one holds best. This should be a good experiment.
I want to test 8 products on 5 sq cm. First two will be chain lube and the second will be burned in oil(cover with oil then torch it). Lets make a list of the other top 6.
Also insurance in Ontario is ridiculous. Considering I have the Supra and a bike any other car would cost me at least an extra $150 a month. I rather put $500 in rust proofing every year.
Anyways back on topic. I will put a metal plate under my car. I will leave it unprotected for a month to rust. I will apply phosphoric acid then I will apply a bunch of different products in different areas. Lets see which one holds best. This should be a good experiment.
I want to test 8 products on 5 sq cm. First two will be chain lube and the second will be burned in oil(cover with oil then torch it). Lets make a list of the other top 6.
Hey daught, I wouldnt experiment on my car...lol. Take it to Krown. The rust-proofing is worth the money, does a good job and they get everywhere.
When the snow came down yesterday the supra was sliding on the backroads. It was pretty shit. First time driving supra in the winter. Supposed to be driving my tracker but it has it's own issues. I'm just saying becaise it sounded like you had no problem in the snow. Mainroads, snow was melted so it was no problem, it might have been the type of snow.
Have some nice snow tires on it too, slow acceleration, back end was going sideways. Moderately slow braking, front end dove to one side. I was surprised. Might get a bag of sand or two for the trunk.
When the snow came down yesterday the supra was sliding on the backroads. It was pretty shit. First time driving supra in the winter. Supposed to be driving my tracker but it has it's own issues. I'm just saying becaise it sounded like you had no problem in the snow. Mainroads, snow was melted so it was no problem, it might have been the type of snow.
Have some nice snow tires on it too, slow acceleration, back end was going sideways. Moderately slow braking, front end dove to one side. I was surprised. Might get a bag of sand or two for the trunk.
Well... I can't say my handling was perfect, but when I say the supra handles well on snow I mean it is predictable and easily recoverable. Oakville had black ice all over. At first I was surprised how easily my rear end was sliding. When I got out of my car and fell on my ass I realized the car did pretty well. Weight in trunk helps a LOT. I usually put two cement blocks. They are low and dont take much space for their weight.
One more thing. Many people put a lot of effort to prevent rust on the bottom. I for one have quite a spotless bottom. What I missed, and many other also miss this, is protecting the driver's floor from the inside. I had more rust on the inside than on the outside. I guess all the salt on the shoes does a lot of damage. The sponge underneath the carpet makes things even worse. I just covered my floor and the passanger's in POR15.
One more thing. Many people put a lot of effort to prevent rust on the bottom. I for one have quite a spotless bottom. What I missed, and many other also miss this, is protecting the driver's floor from the inside. I had more rust on the inside than on the outside. I guess all the salt on the shoes does a lot of damage. The sponge underneath the carpet makes things even worse. I just covered my floor and the passanger's in POR15.
Is the undercoating peeling off of the por-15,or is the por peeling too?I have found that the por does not stick well unless you get agressive with the prep work,at least 80-grit,or better yet, fresh sandblasted.Spraying with oil and such normally wont harm your paint,just make it harder to get newer paint/undercoat to stick further down the road.Regularly power washing the undercarriage helps a lot with the corrosion also.If your gonna take the time/money to experiment with rust inhibition,why not take the time to refinish it properly(strip and refinish)even if it is only one section at a time.daught;1183869 said:
Good point. I de-rusted the underside of my Blazer and then found out, like you, that the rust under the carpet was much worse. How well does the POR15 hold up, do you think?
daught;1185270 said:
Get some good mats, something that:
Fits whole area, something soft to form to the area, and someting deep that will hold the water and not slosh out of the mat and spill over. I usually never have to empty it...but if it gets full just open the door, empty, replace. Carpet stays spotless.
POR-15 is great. It sticks very well to rusted metal that had been treated with phosphoric acid. I have never had to redo such an area. I did my wheel wells last year and they are better than ever. It does not peel off rust. The only time it peels is if I apply it around an area and I go over old paint.
I started this thread looking for a band aid solution for small patches underneath my car that have not been treated with POR-15. POR-15 is still THE final solution, when I have the time...
I started this thread looking for a band aid solution for small patches underneath my car that have not been treated with POR-15. POR-15 is still THE final solution, when I have the time...
Sounds like I'll have to use some on the Blazer in the Spring, when the weather here is better. Ah, one day I'll get a garage...
daught;1185350 said:
Only downside is no UV resistance,doesn't affect its performance but it does turn an ugly satin black/gray color