Car Wont Start

[SupraMaster]

^ Dude, for a SupraMaster your stuff gets weirder with each post...

I'm trying to give advice based on what has been done prior without success. In order to do this I have to do a run down of all possible scenarios. Instead of giving out a huge list of things, it needs to be bled down based on what might have a remote chance of causing the problem, all the way to mentally making a walkthrough through an engine bay and wiring harness. When I get closer and closer to what might cause a singular problem, I start to make a small list.

This isn't the easiest thing to do, considering I can't just pop in and take a look at the engine.

 

[AW11inVa]

I am wondering it my fuel filter is clogged. The original gas tank was full of rust. When I first go the car I was cranking on the orginial motor trying to see if it would start. I wonder if some rust got in there and stopped it up.

 

[jdub]

If that's the case, check you oil pressure gauge, where it plugs into the harness. Make sure it's hooked up. The same thing that would cause this is a pressure bleed on the air intake, so make sure everything is nice and tight. Lastly, check to make sure you didn't possibly get a coolant line and a fuel line mixed up. (I've seen it happen)

Dude - this is a vector off on an obscure tangent. The oil pressure gauge? Pressure bleed on on the air intake? (WTF...over) And, if someone EVER hooked up a coolant line where a fuel line attaches on a supra, it would require a lot of effort to do so...i.e. install banjo fittings to the coolant line or replace fittings on the fuel rail with barbs. I'd call that a pretty weird thing to do.

I am wondering it my fuel filter is clogged. The original gas tank was full of rust. When I first go the car I was cranking on the orginial motor trying to see if it would start. I wonder if some rust got in there and stopped it up.

If this is a concern, why not just test pressure per page 71-73 in the TSRM?

 

[jetjock]

Yeah, all that kind of threw me too but hey, what are ya gonna do?

It'd be better to check flow since pressure won't be affected unless the filter is totally blocked. At least it's a step in the right direction; a methodical approach instead of the guess and by golly that's been going on. Since a no start on these engines is one of their easiest problems to resolve (especially when spark and injection is present) and since it has very few causes and always responds to proper diagnostic technique it would help if some were used.

Also helpful would be if people would invest in tools beyond ratchets and wrenches. In this case a spark tester and noid light come to mind. Both cheap. Then there's the knowledge part of the equation but no, it seems they'd rather flounder around doing things the hard way. Amazing how they'll pour tons of money and time into far less useful crap though...

 

[Kingsoup]

well I did some more work on the car last night and found some new conclusions. After sitting for a while, you crank it and the car almost starts, hits on most cylinders but then dies, indicating it gets fuel for a second then none, perhaps this is the coldstart?

I found fuel pressure in the rail , so thats working. It appears that the injectors are not firing for some reason or sporatically. I checked all the ECU connectors to verify they are good, the grounds all look good, what else provides signal to the ECU for injectors to fire? I checked the distributor, looks good, but perhaps the timing signal isn't working right?

Any ideas? this is quite confusing.

 

[3p141592654]

You'd think this might be helpful.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&P=4

 

[jetjock]

This too:

http://tinyurl.com/3lx2vn

 

[Nick M]

(especially when spark and injection is present)

That only leaves one portion of the combustion triangle...of which many things can affect it. Like a hole in all 6 pistons.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

^^I think 3 or 4 would do

 

[Nick M]

Air/fuel ratio, spark timing, and compression is the combustion triangle if you didn't know.

It isn't air, fuel, and spark.

 

[supramacist]

I'm thinking tweed to phillie ratio and then some spark timing.

 

[jdub]

That only leaves one portion of the combustion triangle...of which many things can affect it. Like a hole in all 6 pistons.

You mean suck, squeeze, bang, blow?

 

[Nick M]

That is the 4 stroke engine, aka a cheap hooker. Yes, old mechanic joke.

 

[AW11inVa]

As I understand the manual the cam timing marks are to be pointing to the notches in the rear cover. That would make the drivers side came point strait up and the passenger side cam mark point more between 12 and 1 o'clock to line up with the notch. Thats the way I set mine up.

But then I was reading some past threads where people are saying the cam marks are suppose to point strait up on both sides. So does the passenger side mark need to be turned a bit to get to teh notch or is it suppose to be at the 12 o'clock position?

I need to still do a spark test and check that each injector is firing. I have fuel coming into the cold start injector. I have power from the coil to the distributor. The igniter tests ok and my fuel pump is running. I wish I had more time to stay on the car I only get an hour or two a day to spend on it.

 

[jdub]

As I understand the manual the cam timing marks are to be pointing to the notches in the rear cover. That would make the drivers side came point strait up and the passenger side cam mark point more between 12 and 1 o'clock to line up with the notch. Thats the way I set mine up.

The pointers on the cam gears should be pointing at the notches on the rear cover. This is with the cam index pins in the center hole on the gears. The crank dampner also has to be pointing at "zero" on the lower cover.

 

[AW11inVa]

Cool thats what I got then.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

After all the gears are lined up, the #1 on TDC the rotor should be pointing at the #1 wire.

 

[AW11inVa]

Yeah I remember in another thread I posted in AJ you said that. The rotor is on #1.

 

[Kingsoup]

I had a brain attack! I wonder if maybe the JDM TPS is crap. I sort of trust things that came off the US motor since it was working shortly before we got the car, but the JDM, god knows how long it sat.

Perhaps its rusted out or something, its so goddamn frustrating, I've done a lot of motor swaps and this is really perplexing me.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

I had a brain attack! I wonder if maybe the JDM TPS is crap. I sort of trust things that came off the US motor since it was working shortly before we got the car, but the JDM, god knows how long it sat.

Perhaps its rusted out or something, its so goddamn frustrating, I've done a lot of motor swaps and this is really perplexing me.

I would have switched out everything you knew was in good working order to the JDM, it would elimate a lot of guess work later. Are you sure the TPS is set right?