Car wants to die and warning light

[SickSupra]

Alright, first off I have a CEL and getting Code 22 when I run codes, also the car seems to want to die under acceleration at takes awhile to start up after sitting overnight..I had to replace the Air Filter hosing to a crappy flexhose I got from O'reillys due to cracking the hose taking it off, and the Air filter needs replacing horribly, could this possibly have anything to do with it? What else should I try? Also I'm getting the light on the far left lighting up as well and I can't figure out what it is...Thanks in advance for any help

Here is a pic of the light

 

[xzeror]

i think thats the low coolant light.

 

[jetjock]

^ What he said. And fix the code 22. The engine is not going to start or accelerate well with it, especially when cold...

 

[SickSupra]

So I figured out my problem...I just bought the car and haven't really drove it since I got it a few months ago and now looking at it the Coolant Temp Sensor and Coolant gauge sensor are screwed, the wires are not connected to anything to connect them to the actual sensors, they are just yellow, green and brown wires with no way to connect to the actual sensors, therefore my thermostat it just stuck open which is why my damn coolant was low..Any ideas how to get past this?

 

[ben1984j]

So I figured out my problem...I just bought the car and haven't really drove it since I got it a few months ago and now looking at it the Coolant Temp Sensor and Coolant gauge sensor are screwed, the wires are not connected to anything to connect them to the actual sensors, they are just yellow, green and brown wires with no way to connect to the actual sensors, therefore my thermostat it just stuck open which is why my damn coolant was low..Any ideas how to get past this?

A disconnected coolant temp sensor won't keep your thermostat open...the thermostat is not electrically operated, it is a mechanical valve that opens at higher coolant temps as the wax within it is heated. Besides, a stuck-open thermostat doesn't make you lose coolant...it's a closed system unless you have leaks (which you very well might).

Could you get a picture of the sensors and wires? For me at least, it's hard to tell what you mean without a visual...also replace that air filter; if it really is clogged, that will affect driveability as well.

 

[SickSupra]

It's dark out right now and all I have is a cell phone to take the pic, but I will for sure tomorrow post up a pic, heres a pic I got off of another post

The ECU Coolant Sensor is ruined and needs to be replaced as well as the coolant gauge sensor, there are no connecters on the wires, just loose wires...I'll get a pic up tomorrow when its light out, thanks for the reply.


I read that if the sensors getting a false reading (the guy had just the yellow wire wrapped around the sensor) it will whack out the ECU and make the car act up..Also did a fresh coolant flush today and drove it around for about 10 minutes and all of my coolant was gone, but I have no leaks at all...

Also, sadly I did a coolant flush the other day on it and rushed through it and did not burp the damn thing! I will burp the car tomorrow and hope that is the problem, I lost alot of coolant in my overflow and I read somewhere that air in the system can cause the car to hesitate like it is..

 

[ben1984j]

Right, I knew which sensors you were talking about, was just unsure about the condition of yours. So no connectors at all? That sucks...you might be able to get those from Toyota (I know they sold CPS and KS pigtails, not sure about others), otherwise I'm sure someone with a part-out going on will have them.

I read that if the sensors getting a false reading (the guy had just the yellow wire wrapped around the sensor) it will whack out the ECU and make the car act up..Also did a fresh coolant flush today and drove it around for about 10 minutes and all of my coolant was gone, but I have no leaks at all...

As far as the "ECU Coolant Sensor"...yes, the ECU uses its signal (THW) for many functions including fuel and spark corrections, etc... if there is no signal from it, like in your case, the ECU enters a fail safe mode (hence the code 22). When this happens, a certain fixed temperature is assumed for all calculations...obviously not a good thing when it comes to performance.

The "Instrument Cluster Coolant Gauge Sensor," on the other hand, has zero effect on how the car drives; but it is arguably just as important if not more, since without it you won't know if you're overheating. You should really not be driving your car without a way to know its temperature, especially with your known low coolant level; I can't stress this enough...

So how did you determine that you had no coolant? Did you open the radiator drain cock and nothing came out? (could still be coolant in the block) Or were you just looking at the overflow reservoir? Reason I ask is it's highly unlikely you lost all your coolant in such a short drive without a massive and obvious leak; even a bad BHG wouldn't do this...

 

[SickSupra]

All of the sensors are like this