I just finished replacing the HG on my '91 n/a, I had a valve job done on the head along with it resurfaced and ready to be installed. I then started the car and after a few cranks it turned over. It idled rough and would die unless I didnt hold the gas pedal down a little bit. White smoke then poured out of the exhaust for awhile then stopped. And after only maybe 30 seconds to a minute of running, it was already rather hot. It may have bad gas since it has been sitting for about 5 to 6 months. But other then that everything is fine and brand new. Any ideas or words of wisdom you might want to share? ANY input would help!
Car starts, but rough idle and white smoke
- Thread starter mkIII213
- Start date
Check your timing. The crank dampner should point to zero, both cam gears point to the back cover notch, and the distributer pointing to the #1 contact. Then set timing with a light...make sure you jump TE1 & E1 in the diag block.
Also make sure the MAF is connected securely.
Skip the Seafoam treatment
Also make sure the MAF is connected securely.
Skip the Seafoam treatment
Seafoam. No one has mentioned that product in a year or so.
That I have read.
It's sort of like adding atf to your fuel tank isn't it.
Only better.
I tried it once and it worked well, but the atf was just as good and half the price.
That I have read.
It's sort of like adding atf to your fuel tank isn't it.
Only better.
I tried it once and it worked well, but the atf was just as good and half the price.
supramacist;1001794 said:
Seafoam is one of those things that cost way more than good it does. If you want to clean carbon off your valves, hook a bottle of water with a needle valve to control flow to the boost sensor nipple. On an NA, you could T off the brake booster. Adjust the needle valve until you just get a bit of a studder at idle, then run the car pulling max vacuum...you will clean the valves and piston tops quite nicely (I do this every year)
I wouldn't run ATF through an EFI motor...that's an old school technique from back when all the engines had carbs. And it was poured directly into the carb iirc...smoked like a motha' too
seafoam also stabalizes fuel...its a good product to pour in with gas if its going to sit for extened periods...5 months isn't going to hurt your fuel...sea foam will also absorb water out of your fuel and help it burn off....its a snake oil as far as valve cleaner but it does good when added to gas thats old....
Seafoam has its place....
Seafoam has its place....
Ive used it in lawnmower fuel over the winters back when I worked the grounds department at my old boarding school....ive tried it in my old toyota truck when it sat for a year...I don't use it as a fuel treatment but I'll use it if gas is old just to help bring it back so it will burn better...but I don't use it as a treatment once a month thing lol...like you said water is great for cleaning!
afofsupra;1002055 said:
Ok, the timing is perfect considering it at TDC. So its at 0 TDC. But it still is idling rough. The white smoke is virtually gone, so I guess there wasnt a whole lot of water in the exhaust. I also filled it up with new premium unleaded gas.
Ok...that sets the base timing. Cam gears at zero, crank dampner at zero, distributer set at #1.
Did you jump TE1 and E1, then use a timing light to set at 10 BTDC with the motor running? (by adjusting the distributer)
There should be no CEL codes displayed when TE1 and E1 are jumped.
These are two distinct steps in the timing process....initial timing 1st, basic ignition timing 2nd.
Did you jump TE1 and E1, then use a timing light to set at 10 BTDC with the motor running? (by adjusting the distributer)
There should be no CEL codes displayed when TE1 and E1 are jumped.
These are two distinct steps in the timing process....initial timing 1st, basic ignition timing 2nd.
Some of this is fairly new to me. We have not done anything with the timing light. My brother and my best friend are mechanics so I will see about doing that in the morning. And this is probably all in the TSRM correct?
Read pages IG17 to IG20:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=IG&P=17
Step 4a & b is the same as aligning the cam gear marks to the index marks on the back plate.
Step 4c & d sets the #1 piston at TDC when the crank is pointing at zero.
IG19 you install the distributor...aligning the gear marks in step 2b are the same as the distributor rotor pointing at the #1 plug wire contact.
IG20, step 8 is the ignition timing process with a timing light. It is critical there are no CEL codes when TE1 & E1 are jumped!
Also make very sure the plug wires are attached to the correct cylinder contact on the distributor.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=IG&P=17
Step 4a & b is the same as aligning the cam gear marks to the index marks on the back plate.
Step 4c & d sets the #1 piston at TDC when the crank is pointing at zero.
IG19 you install the distributor...aligning the gear marks in step 2b are the same as the distributor rotor pointing at the #1 plug wire contact.
IG20, step 8 is the ignition timing process with a timing light. It is critical there are no CEL codes when TE1 & E1 are jumped!
Also make very sure the plug wires are attached to the correct cylinder contact on the distributor.
jdub;1002413 said:
What do you mean it is critical there are no CEL codes when doing this? Aren't these the two you jump to check the CEL codes? What happens if you try to set the timing at idle and it does have CEL codes?
Because there are several sensor signals that affect basic ignition timing...Intake air volume, engine speed, throttle position, and knock signal. ANY problems with these sensors, their circuits, or ANY problem with idle engine speed will produce incorrect parameters for setting basic ignition timing. For example, if the AC button is on, it increases idle and produces a code 51...you cannot set basic timing, but the solution is simple. Turn the AC off
If you have a code, the 1st thing I would do is pull the EFI fuse to reset. If the code goes away with the engine running and TE1 &E1 jumped, set the timing. If you get a code, it needs to be fixed, but will depend on what it is in terms of affecting basic ignition timing. There's a variety of other sensors that will affect normal corrective timing (ignition advance) ops once basic ignition timing is set.
In addition to all this, failure of certain sensors (or the circuit) causes the ECU to use fail-safe or back-up mode.
That is a whole different ball game.
If you have a code, the 1st thing I would do is pull the EFI fuse to reset. If the code goes away with the engine running and TE1 &E1 jumped, set the timing. If you get a code, it needs to be fixed, but will depend on what it is in terms of affecting basic ignition timing. There's a variety of other sensors that will affect normal corrective timing (ignition advance) ops once basic ignition timing is set.
In addition to all this, failure of certain sensors (or the circuit) causes the ECU to use fail-safe or back-up mode.
That is a whole different ball game.
This whole ECU thing just really kicks car enthusiasts/do it yourselfers between the legs ya know?
Not if you understand how it works
In this case, setting the initial timing is going to get you close.
In this case, setting the initial timing is going to get you close.