Car does not want to run (idle)!

trydrew

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Sorry for the long post.. This is one my 90T (auto>5spd converted) with no mods.

Ok so today, I finally decided to go out and realign my cps because I forgot to do so after a valve shim adjustment. Once I got all that done, I fired her up and set the timing once she was warm. Then I looked for leaks, checked for codes and went for a drive. Well I drove her three more times and everything was fine.... until I got close home the last time.

I was noticed how everytime I would turn on my turn signal, my indiglo dash lights would flicker or dim. I just thought it was the connection for the lighted gauge covers. When I got home I had to wait for my dad to move the van outta the way. While sitting there, I turned my brights on. Just then the car sputtered and almost died. It caught itself and then continued idling. I was gonna check it once I had gotten into the garage 'cause thats not normal.

I began to pull the car in and once it was half way into the garage, it flat out died. Nothing was working, which made me think battery connection. Sure enough, I had forgotten to tighten the (-) cable down all the way. Well I tightened it up and tried to restart it.

It cranked, started, then died. I tried again, and with me holding the gas in, it runs, and runs well too. As soon as I let off it just dies. So I checked my codes and nothing. I began to check vac lines and electrical connections. Everything checks out. I have a multimeter, but the ohm thing is screwed up. If it weren't, i'd check the afm.
Another thing is that when it runs, sometimes i have to jiggle the tps connection so that it idles at 650 rather then 500. Most of the time it wont mess up, but when it does, a slight push on the connection fixes the problem.
I figured that I could check the tps by looking for a code 51, so I flipped my switch to check codes and pushed the gas. I did not get a 51 until about 1800 rpm. Is that normal? I thought that even the slightest push on the gas threw a 51..? Do you think it needs to be adjusted?

So, why do you think it wont idle? AFM? TPS? Something else?

Oh yeah I check all fuses too.
 

jdub

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You should get a code 51 as soon as the pedal is moved. The IDL contact in the TPS tells the ECU when to go to idle speed control and enables idle stabilization which advances timing when the O2 sensor senses lean.

Check your TPS. Try unplugging it and see how the car runs...the car will run without the TPS, but may hesitate on acceleration and have a funky idle. It should not cause the car to stall unless something else is a contributing factor in the ignition.

Is your timing set a 10 deg BDTC with T and E jumpered?
Is your battery fully charged?
 

trydrew

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jdub said:
You should get a code 51 as soon as the pedal is moved. The IDL contact in the TPS tells the ECU when to go to idle speed control and enables idle stabilization which advances timing when the O2 sensor senses lean.

Check your TPS. Try unplugging it and see how the car runs...the car will run without the TPS, but may hesitate on acceleration and have a funky idle. It should not cause the car to stall unless something else is a contributing factor in the ignition.

Is your timing set a 10 deg BDTC with T and E jumpered?
Is your battery fully charged?

I thought so...

Ill have to check the battery.
Timing is set at 10 with the connections jumped.
 

MDCmotorsports

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Sounds almost like something simple electrical and not diagnostic.

Have you driven the car since you retimed it? Have you removed the efi fuse or pulled the battery?

If not, do so, and go out and drive the thing for 20-30 minutes. Let the ecu relearn.

Also, check the alt or have it checked and also check for a propper working bov (make sure its not leaking to atmosphere under idle)
 

trydrew

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MDCmotorsports said:
Sounds almost like something simple electrical and not diagnostic.

Have you driven the car since you retimed it? Have you removed the efi fuse or pulled the battery?

If not, do so, and go out and drive the thing for 20-30 minutes. Let the ecu relearn.

Also, check the alt or have it checked and also check for a propper working bov (make sure its not leaking to atmosphere under idle)

Yeah I did this last night. I took her out multiple times after the retime. Ive pulled the fuse multiple times too for various reasons (forgot afm connection) after the retime, and ive disconnected the battery too. Ill see if I can adjust the tps tonight, even though its supposed to flurry. The odd thing is that it was running well, with no problems, prior to the time it died from the loose battery connection...
Ill report back.

BOV is working and alt needs checking.
 

trydrew

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It was the tps... but I still dont know why?

Damn 17 year old car.. *ducks and hopes she didnt hear*
 

jdub

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Do you know what part of the TPS...the IDL signal?
And no code 51?

The reason I ask is my car idles at 550 rpm...can't find the reason why. But my TPS throws a code 51 when the pedal is depress right away.