Car blows white smoke out of intake

Tae361

New Member
Jul 15, 2008
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NY
I've been driving my car normally since I did a motor swap and this morning I went to start my car and it will crank and crank then turn over and idle at 200rpm for a couple seconds then stall and blow white smoke out of my intake.

Recently when I would try to start my car, there is a whining noise, then I turn the ignition again and it would start up normally.

When I woke up this morning to warm my car up to go to class I started having the white smoke problem.

I read the thread on it and it indicates timing is wrong. I haven't had a chance to check the timing yet since I am in class until 1, but I was wondering if there is an alternate explanation.

The car has the stock cat that has been on it for the past 22 years and was wondering if the cat could have clogged completely and the exhaust gasses are getting trapped and coming back out the intake. That is the only other possible explanation that I could come up with. And I have a bad feeling about white smoke coming out of the intake. It smells like straight exhaust gasses.

A few pieces of information about the car:
-Motor swap to JDM 7M-GE last summer
-I tore the head off and replaced the head gasket etc.. and every other gasket/seal I could with the motor on a stand.
-It has all new plugs/wires/distributor/ignition
-2.5" cat back
-All fluids are fresh as I just replaced them all last week

Other than that the car has been fine, other then a weak idle after the car is warmed up. The idle will fluctuate from 500-800RPM constantly. Also the car lacks power until 3000ish RPMs in first and second gears, after second gear it pulls normally.

Thanks
 

Tae361

New Member
Jul 15, 2008
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NY
strange thing happened, went to get my LED light out of my car, so i decided to try to start it, and it started right up... i hope this wont be a recurring problem. when its not raining tomorrow i will try to check the timing to the best of my abilities!
 

Supracentral

Active Member
Mar 30, 2005
10,542
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Inspect your cam gears as well. Make sure that you haven't sheared the keyway pin off of one of them and be sure they are torqued properly. Inspect your timing belt, make sure it has not jumped a tooth.
 

Tae361

New Member
Jul 15, 2008
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NY
Supracentral;1259137 said:
Inspect your cam gears as well. Make sure that you haven't sheared the keyway pin off of one of them and be sure they are torqued properly. Inspect your timing belt, make sure it has not jumped a tooth.

How would you determine if the timing belt "jumped a tooth"? Would it be setting cyl1 to TDC and seeing if the marks on the cam gears line up with the marks on the timing belt?
 

Isphius

Supra-less :(
May 30, 2006
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long branch
line the timing marks up on the cams. If one is off youll notice, because both marks should be dead on. To see if both are off you have to set to TDC then reset the cams, but not for just one. Also your ignition timing may be way retarted and its blowing up the gas before the valves even close. This could also be caused by both cams being off so that TDC test is sounding like a good idea. Any codes?

Edit: please dont use the cam bolts to rotate the crank!
 

Tae361

New Member
Jul 15, 2008
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NY
Isphius;1259583 said:
line the timing marks up on the cams. If one is off youll notice, because both marks should be dead on. To see if both are off you have to set to TDC then reset the cams, but not for just one. Also your ignition timing may be way retarted and its blowing up the gas before the valves even close. This could also be caused by both cams being off so that TDC test is sounding like a good idea. Any codes?

Edit: please dont use the cam bolts to rotate the crank!

lol i would never use those to rotate the crank. will be a couple days before i can check it out,.. supposed to snow and i have no auto shelter!
 

Tae361

New Member
Jul 15, 2008
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NY
checked it today, both cams were aligned properly when the crank was at TDC, i'm too poor to buy a timing light right now and my boys don't need them with their cars. I did check the plug order and i believe i mixed two wires, so i did the sequence over. I havent warmed the car up yet to see if it idles any better and havent driven it to see if the powerband is back to normal. will test all that when i go to wash it alittle later.

i've never checked timing before, but when i get my hands on a timing light, you point it at the crank pulley correct? i dont want to have to take off that stupid cam cover again its annoying as hell.
 

Tae361

New Member
Jul 15, 2008
110
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NY
another thing is, i use the E3 diamond fire spark plugs. has anyone had a bad experience with them, i've only read good reviews, but if its these plugs i will switch to ones that need to be gapped.
 

Tae361

New Member
Jul 15, 2008
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NY
yeah i got it thanks, timing set to between 12 and 15 deg BTDC and i'm still having the same problems. i believe its the cat blocking my exhaust flow if its not the timing. but i did get a nice little acceleration boost from it.

i have been getting fumes that smell like fuel from time to time.
 

Tae361

New Member
Jul 15, 2008
110
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NY
OK updates:

1) timing set to 12deg
2) checked ACIS for sticking, didnt take manifold apart just moved it around with my hand, lubed it up alittle
3) fixed exhaust leak
4) found oily residue in upper intake manifold
5) had code 22 but took care of that

i haven't noticed a change in the idle after the car is at normal operating conditions now but it has a flat power band before 3800RPM, smell gas after 30+ min trips, this is getting annoying lol.

that's about it, the nice weather forced me to get down to business haha
 

Tae361

New Member
Jul 15, 2008
110
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NY
More Updates:

1) Power band steadied for the most part after playing with the timing a bit.
2) Car threw a code 41 and the harness side of the tps was obviously not being held in spot because the clip was broke so i fixed that.
3) Car develops a seriously aggressive idle like I have the meanest racing cams, it will jump from 1000RPM down to 400RPM and keep going until i get in gear and go again. It varies randomly when it happens,
4) I do believe it threw a code 11 also yesterday. I'm not quite sure if the ECU i bought from a guy on these forums is bunk or what, it could explain the other codes that are coming up and I'm not sure to begin where to test for a code 11.

As always I appreciate any input or comments. Thanks.
 

AJ'S 88NA

New Member
Jul 26, 2007
2,419
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Florida
Tae361;1275399 said:
More Updates:

1) Power band steadied for the most part after playing with the timing a bit.
2) Car threw a code 41 and the harness side of the tps was obviously not being held in spot because the clip was broke so i fixed that.
3) Car develops a seriously aggressive idle like I have the meanest racing cams, it will jump from 1000RPM down to 400RPM and keep going until i get in gear and go again. It varies randomly when it happens,
4) I do believe it threw a code 11 also yesterday. I'm not quite sure if the ECU i bought from a guy on these forums is bunk or what, it could explain the other codes that are coming up and I'm not sure to begin where to test for a code 11.

As always I appreciate any input or comments. Thanks.
11 ECU(+B)
Diagnosis
Momentary interruption in power supply to ECU.
Trouble Area
Ignition switch circuit
Ignition switch
Main relay circuit
Main relay
ECU
 

Tae361

New Member
Jul 15, 2008
110
0
0
NY
AJ'S 88NA;1275698 said:
11 ECU(+B)
Diagnosis
Momentary interruption in power supply to ECU.
Trouble Area
Ignition switch circuit
Ignition switch
Main relay circuit
Main relay
ECU

yeah i can read the TSRM heh, i know the main relay and circuit are fine as well as the ignition swich and circuit because i just tested them recently. i guess i have to rip out the ECU and test that, going to see if the code clears first then see if it comes back again tomorrow and go from there. i know theres something wrong electrically if i keep getting 41 and 11 but i dont know which one is causing the problems.