Built 7mgte discovery!

[turbocrazy]

Ok so I found a mk3 online for 3,600 and asked the guy if he would take 2k and after a lot of bartering I got the car unknowing to its hidden Secrets. Long story short I spun a bearing and had to tare it down ( this is where it gets interesting) I get the engine out and notice arp head studs which I figured because the high boost I ran but then I pull the oil pan to see how bad the bearing is and find out it's been fully machined and has arp main bolts eagle rods and Wisco pistons and is bored .50over with a 9:1 compression ratio. So now comes my descution part my car Was quick but I wasn't more im wondering if going with a 9.5 or even 10:1 compression ratio sounds dumb or would give me a huge edge to running a stock ct26 and possibly 400hp or close?

 

[Nick M]

So...you are going to rebuild a rebuild that was ruined in short order by changing pistons? You can't. You have to hone the cylinder to the piston. If I don't understand what you are doing, then I am sorry.

 

[turbocrazy]

I know you have to hone that wasn't my question

 

[toyotanos]

CT26 tops out around 300whp stock.
To use higher compression, you would need a standalone to control spark.
To use high compression without knock, you'd need either E85 or race gas.
For 400whp, you'll need a new turbo, and don't buy it from ebay.
There is so much more than that, but that's what I have time for at the moment.

 

[turbocrazy]

CT26 tops out around 300whp stock.
To use higher compression, you would need a standalone to control spark.
To use high compression without knock, you'd need either E85 or race gas.
For 400whp, you'll need a new turbo, and don't buy it from ebay.
There is so much more than that, but that's what I have time for at the moment.

So if I'm gonna run a 9.5 or 10:1 compression I need to run e85 or race gas?

 

[supraguy@aol]

If you have a built engine(which, at 9:1 is already higher comp than stock), why not fix the bearing issue, and spend the real money on better components elsewhere, like fuel and induction upgrades?
These will be the more important bottlenecks.

 

[Rollus]

Hi, nice find !

I built my 7M to 9.5:1.

I agree with supraguy, just fix the bearing issue, and upgrade external parts.
If you really want to increase CR, you can just get another head gasket, here is a spreadsheet helping to calculate what you want: http://goo.gl/jSHhoX
Depending to your turbo pressure, exeeding an effective compression ratio of about 16:1, you will want to run E85 or race fuel to prevent detonation.

There are upgrade you can do to the head also instead touching the bottom end (ecxept bearing), just search for "quake mod" "zooloo mod" "shimless bucket".

Here is what I done to my head: http://supra-mk3-rr.blogspot.fr/2014/04/refection-7mgte-forge-la-culasse.html hopefully google will translate the page for you (there is a tool on the left), but there are some pics..

 

[turbocrazy]

If you have a built engine(which, at 9:1 is already higher comp than stock), why not fix the bearing issue, and spend the real money on better components elsewhere, like fuel and induction upgrades?
These will be the more important bottlenecks.

Well I wanted to get just alittle more power if it's possible

 

[super51fan]

I would like to know "why" you spun a bearing? You need to find the root cause of failure or it will happen again. PS the rod that had a "spun" bearing needs replaced. IMO

 

[turbocrazy]

Ya I'm replacing it and the crank with another I have but Im pretty sure it happend because a cracked hose in the oil relocation kit and the fact it wasn't tight on the oil fitting in the block. Another thing is I really wanna do e85 what exactly needs to be changed on these cars

 

[super51fan]

I would go stand alone ecu for E85.

 

[Rollus]

I would go stand alone ecu for E85.

I would go stand alone ecu only for flexfuel.
In other case, well choosen injectors and a injection piggyback to lean out + an ignition piggyback to retard when using unleaded is enough. MAFT Pro and MapEcu are known piggyback who can handle this. Maybe the Ecumaster piggyback is also suited for this

But... you are right a standalone is the best suited if high power goal, until 3p14 release his remappable TCCS: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?73379-3P-s-TCCS-Disassembly-Analysis/page34

 

[Nick M]

But... you are right a standalone is the best suited if high power goal, until 3p14 release his remappable TCCS: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?73379-3P-s-TCCS-Disassembly-Analysis/page34

Then he can work o the A340E controller. : )

 

[Rollus]

Then he can work o the A340E controller. : )

I guess suprastick is all we need here.
BTW IJ felt it a little inconsistent...

 

[IJ.]

PCS is a far better choice but even it suffers if you don't have the ABS 32T Reluctor

 

[turbocrazy]

I found a aem plug and play I wanna get with a maf and air temp that comes with it to do my tuning in having a hard time figuring out what head gasket to get I wanna go with a 1.4mm to keep compression up but don't know what is done to the head I don't think it's ever been shaved should I go with a 2.0 to be safe and will it make a big difference in compression?

 

[Rollus]

having a hard time figuring out what head gasket to get I wanna go with a 1.4mm to keep compression up but don't know what is done to the head I don't think it's ever been shaved should I go with a 2.0 to be safe and will it make a big difference in compression?

here is a spreadsheet helping to calculate what you want: http://goo.gl/jSHhoX

Needn't to know the past of the head and block, just need to measure and compare to B8 or B12 in the spreadsheet.