Build Advice?

DaltonD

New Member
May 22, 2008
22
0
0
Fayetteville Arkansas
Hey you guys, I'm new to the site and just wanted to see what you guys thought of my first project. I am only 16, so I don't have a lot of experience, nor do I have a lot of knowledge, but I hope to learn from the site. (don't worry, I do research before I ask questions.)

Here is my FIRST project car. MKIII Supra 7MGTE JDM
http://nwaimports.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12962

My buddy who sold the car to me threw a rod, so we took apart the engine to see what was up.
Apparently the block was fine... @_@
I still want to take it to a machine shop and have em take a look at it though.

I am looking for around 350whp after everything is done, and I don't want to have to replace a lot of internals. I'm thinking the 57 trim ct26 will be fine, but I'm still up in the air with that.

Anything important that I shouldn't forget while re-building this engine? I've read that this engine is like no other... Maybe not the best "first project" huh?

Thanks for the advice!

-dalton
 

TheNewRed

New Member
Oct 19, 2007
572
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35
WA
Purchase this, and read it cover to cover.:naughty: There is plentful info in this book, it opened my eyes to a lot of things. O and by "throw a rod" do you mean the rod let loose, or spinning a bearing?



717205.jpg
 

Rennat

5psi...? haha
Dec 6, 2005
2,844
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Tracy, CA
www.myspace.com
if your really going to be happy with just 350whp, and you want that to be reliable as possible, then you can do stock internals.

Pistons - i would get .20 over just so you can set the piston to wall clearance and get the sides coated with moly, the crowns ceramic coated, and the underneath
Rods - shot peened and stress relieved along with arp bolts
crank - cut it .10/.10 so you can set the oil clearnaces and get the whole assembly balanced, and i would only use a 7m crank.

a lot of that is based on money, you dont have to get the pistons coated, but for longevity purposes i would, especially if you ever decide to turn the boost up a little more... haha

and dont be shy about the questions, ask away! thats why you joined here! my first "real" build is the one im doing right now, and i ask all the questions i can. haha
this engine is "picky" more so than anything... thanks to a lot of vendors on here a lot of good reliable OEM parts are now available at much better prices then dealer prices.


edit:

tell your friend to STEP away from the cam caps with the air gun... you shouldnt need the air gun on many things for disassembly.
 

kingsupra

New Member
Jul 14, 2006
106
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0
d-town,colorado
dont forget the metal headgasket with arp studs/bolts!!!

and take your time with the build dont rush things. you always want to do things the right way the first time so you wont ever have to do it a second.
 

suprabad

Coitus Non Circum
Jul 12, 2005
1,796
0
0
Down Like A Clown Charley Brown
I'd spend my time and money on a good solid rebuild with no shortcuts and no crazy boost or huge turbos or giant injectors or Nos. Just a nice solid rebuild to get you familiar with the 7m and maybe later down the road look into bpu's, and take it from there.

This way you'll have a car that runs, and you won't get discouraged by getting over your head and giving up.
 

DaltonD

New Member
May 22, 2008
22
0
0
Fayetteville Arkansas
TheNewRed;1049389 said:
Purchase this, and read it cover to cover.:naughty: There is plentful info in this book, it opened my eyes to a lot of things. O and by "throw a rod" do you mean the rod let loose, or spinning a bearing?



717205.jpg


The Rod let loose. There are pics in the URL.
I'll check that book out.
EBAYYYY!!!
 

DaltonD

New Member
May 22, 2008
22
0
0
Fayetteville Arkansas
Rennat;1049398 said:
if your really going to be happy with just 350whp, and you want that to be reliable as possible, then you can do stock internals.

Pistons - i would get .20 over just so you can set the piston to wall clearance and get the sides coated with moly, the crowns ceramic coated, and the underneath
Rods - shot peened and stress relieved along with arp bolts
crank - cut it .10/.10 so you can set the oil clearnaces and get the whole assembly balanced, and i would only use a 7m crank.

a lot of that is based on money, you dont have to get the pistons coated, but for longevity purposes i would, especially if you ever decide to turn the boost up a little more... haha

and dont be shy about the questions, ask away! thats why you joined here! my first "real" build is the one im doing right now, and i ask all the questions i can. haha
this engine is "picky" more so than anything... thanks to a lot of vendors on here a lot of good reliable OEM parts are now available at much better prices then dealer prices.


edit:

tell your friend to STEP away from the cam caps with the air gun... you shouldnt need the air gun on many things for disassembly.


Thanks for the advice.
There is a 6m Crank in it right now though... =/ Is that bad?
And yeah... I might try to go for 400whp in the long run... haha
 

DaltonD

New Member
May 22, 2008
22
0
0
Fayetteville Arkansas
kingsupra;1049462 said:
dont forget the metal headgasket with arp studs/bolts!!!

and take your time with the build dont rush things. you always want to do things the right way the first time so you wont ever have to do it a second.

Yeah, at first I wanted to rush and get it done with stock internals and a 57 trim ct26, but now I want to take my time and go with a bore and JE pistons with Eagle rods and ARP studs and bolts. =)
 

DaltonD

New Member
May 22, 2008
22
0
0
Fayetteville Arkansas
suprabad;1049493 said:
I'd spend my time and money on a good solid rebuild with no shortcuts and no crazy boost or huge turbos or giant injectors or Nos. Just a nice solid rebuild to get you familiar with the 7m and maybe later down the road look into bpu's, and take it from there.

This way you'll have a car that runs, and you won't get discouraged by getting over your head and giving up.

Thanks for the advice.
I don't want this car to be ALL boost.
 

TheNewRed

New Member
Oct 19, 2007
572
0
0
35
WA
Damn, i just checked out the pics, i have a spare block that i picked up a while back, and the #6 had let loose, just like that one.... 7M blocks are pretty damn tuff, but the crank in it was completly destroyed.
 

Rennat

5psi...? haha
Dec 6, 2005
2,844
0
0
Tracy, CA
www.myspace.com
DaltonD;1049904 said:
Yeah, at first I wanted to rush and get it done with stock internals and a 57 trim ct26, but now I want to take my time and go with a bore and JE pistons with Eagle rods and ARP studs and bolts. =)


me and you think alike, im building a "built" motor with eagle rods and probe pistons, but im still going to be on the stock turbo, stock IC, stock everything! just so i can get use to the car, and then im going to mod it slowly so that way im not just jumping into a 400hp RWD monster.
 

starscream5000

Senior VIP Member
Aug 23, 2006
6,359
0
36
Hot and Humid, KY
The 7M crank is fully balanced, whereas the 6M crank doesn't have balancers on #2 and #5 cylinders. You want that motor to run as smooth as possible, the 7M crank is the best one for that choice, it's slightly heavier, but it will load the turbo better ;).

Edit: Balancers=counterweights, had a senile moment.
 

Rennat

5psi...? haha
Dec 6, 2005
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Tracy, CA
www.myspace.com
i never thought of that being a reason to go with a 7m over a 6m crank, but i guess you could reason that it would load the turbo better... haha

i just wanted it because of the better rotating harmonics and it would beat less on my bearings! and easier to balance
 

DaltonD

New Member
May 22, 2008
22
0
0
Fayetteville Arkansas
What would be the best bore size for me? .20?

I still can't decide weather I want to do stock internals, and have a really fun car, or bore it and have a beast... I'm almost thinking stock internals will be best for me, since It is my first project and it is a little over my head... I can always go back and upgrade later on down the road, after I have more experience. =)

Do any of you guyz know where I could find another rod? I tried ebay but I couldnt find one... I might have to go with Eagle rods, just cuz they are easier to find, and come with ARP hardwear.

Sorry for so many questions, I know you guys get tired of hearing em.
 

Rennat

5psi...? haha
Dec 6, 2005
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Tracy, CA
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i have 6 rods with the pistons attached... could make you a deal on all of them then that way you could use the ones that are already closest in weight.

and this forum was created FOR questions. ask away. we all enjoy supras, its not like your asking us whats the best turbo setup for a B16 in an integra... lol
 

Zumtizzle

Can't Wait to Be King.
Oct 21, 2006
2,825
0
36
Sac-Town, NorCal
Shot Peening the stock rods are a waste of great money. They come Peened from the factory.

Finding a rod is not hard at all. :)

Post a WTB ad.

You'll get PM's from lots of nice people and not get ripped off. :)
 

Zumtizzle

Can't Wait to Be King.
Oct 21, 2006
2,825
0
36
Sac-Town, NorCal
Also if you Do use stock or cast pistons.

Stick to a stock composite Head gasket, if you detonate that'll blow and your pistons won't. It'll save you a lot of pain. :)
 

DaltonD

New Member
May 22, 2008
22
0
0
Fayetteville Arkansas
Rennat;1051296 said:
i have 6 rods with the pistons attached... could make you a deal on all of them then that way you could use the ones that are already closest in weight.

and this forum was created FOR questions. ask away. we all enjoy supras, its not like your asking us whats the best turbo setup for a B16 in an integra... lol

I might have to hit you up on that offer.
I don't have the money right now though. =/
 

kingsupra

New Member
Jul 14, 2006
106
0
0
d-town,colorado
if you want some brand spanking new standard size cast pistons i have some for sale, also have some used .020 over cast pistons as well if interested