Bosch 110 BPV Problem
- Thread starter edi
- Start date
edi said:
If it open (is that what you're saying??) then that's normal at idle.
jetjock said:
Indeed
Guess I'm not helping much. My bad
edi:The valve should be open when the control port is below atmospheric pressure and closed when at or above it. What's so hard to understand about that? A hand vacuum pump is the quickest way to check it off the car but if you don't have one suck on the control port while having another person blow through the valve. Or vice versa. You must know someone who usually takes care of that kind of work for you...
edi:The valve should be open when the control port is below atmospheric pressure and closed when at or above it. What's so hard to understand about that? A hand vacuum pump is the quickest way to check it off the car but if you don't have one suck on the control port while having another person blow through the valve. Or vice versa. You must know someone who usually takes care of that kind of work for you...
jetjock said:Guess I'm not helping much. My bad
edi:The valve should be open when the control port is below atmospheric pressure and closed when at or above it. What's so hard to understand about that? A hand vacuum pump is the quickest way to check it off the car but if you don't have one suck on the control port while having another person blow through the valve. Or vice versa. You must know someone who usually takes care of that kind of work for you...
i understand exactly what your saying both about the valve and how you must think i dont know anything about anything... but i guess these forums are for those who know everything an not for those who need help and guidence.
so wow, i guess your right... and this was stupid thread, wasnt it. and i guess i'll just figure out this rich idle problem on my own.
Oh lighten up edi. We're trying to help but you're not making it easy. How can something so simple generate 3 pages of posts? As for the rich idle you've already been told the valve doesn't have anything to do with it. Start listening. And stop acting as if the service manual doesn't have all the guidance you'll ever need. That means reading in addition to listening. Conquer those and all you'll have left to improve upon is your writing
i'm just a bit frustrated with this. i didnt have this problem till i installed the bosch 110. and i can go back to the stock toyota one because its busted. its whatever now... i'll think of something. thanks anyways.
Lots of people have driven around on busted stock ones (they usually fail open) without knowing it. In fact you could connect those two lines together and unless your turbo is sick you wouldn't notice. The only way it could be causing a problem is if it was leaking outside air in and even then it'd be a crap shoot.
im going to guess that you have a vacuum leak...we know you have been tinkering with the vacuum lines and a vacuum leak will cause idle issues and a running rich condition because you are losing metered air. i would go over ALL your vacuum lines to make sure you don't have a vacuum leak/boost leak...
like the others have said...a faulty bov will not cause idle problems. the bov is behind the afm so unless air was finding a way to escape..it wouldn't matter since all the air is metered...the only way the bov could be related if it was causing a boost leak/vacuum leak and releasing metered air into atmo. odds are its not though since it is a very simple device.
if all else fails...running rich alone will cause idle issues if bad enough. i would check your codes. at this point i would start too look at your fuel delivery...maybe you have an injector that's starting to crap out.
when i have engine problems...i always start with fuel/air and spark..as a majorty of symptoms can be caused by these simple things. make sure you have fuel and it is being delivered properly...then make sure the air is getting into the combustion chamber and not leaking...and make sure you have sufficient spark...if all is well there then i start looking into electronics (this is assuming there are no codes related to the issue).
i hope that helps.
like the others have said...a faulty bov will not cause idle problems. the bov is behind the afm so unless air was finding a way to escape..it wouldn't matter since all the air is metered...the only way the bov could be related if it was causing a boost leak/vacuum leak and releasing metered air into atmo. odds are its not though since it is a very simple device.
if all else fails...running rich alone will cause idle issues if bad enough. i would check your codes. at this point i would start too look at your fuel delivery...maybe you have an injector that's starting to crap out.
when i have engine problems...i always start with fuel/air and spark..as a majorty of symptoms can be caused by these simple things. make sure you have fuel and it is being delivered properly...then make sure the air is getting into the combustion chamber and not leaking...and make sure you have sufficient spark...if all is well there then i start looking into electronics (this is assuming there are no codes related to the issue).
i hope that helps.
I will give you $30.00 for the Bosch valve that you just bought (assuming that you haven't smacked it with a hammer yet) and then you can take that money and apply it to an HKS
Why don't you offer him what it's worth?
935motorsports has the best price and linked to it in the other thread you're trolling.
935motorsports has the best price and linked to it in the other thread you're trolling.
What kind of hoses are you guys using for the stock setup and the bypass 110 valve? My pipes are stock. I tried finding some radiator hoses but I couldn't find any. Did you use vacuum hoses or radiator hoses? If you used radiator hoses what part number were they, etc. Thanks.
I used standard heater hose after molding it to the increased ID needed on the valve port. Been there for years and still looks new.
