Blown headgasket...

[MoreliaSpilota]

My car has been smoking randomly and it was definitely oil... today when I was driving I got the burned oil and definitely burned coolant.

This car is my daily driver. I also don't have TONS and TONS of money. I want to be efficient and cost effective about replacing the head gasket. That doesn't mean I am going to buy the cheapest thing out there made in China and use it, but I am open to suggestions.

I'm going to be pulling the car apart and checking to see if there is any imperfections on the head, if so, it will go to a machine shop.

I also thought that it MIGHT be the turbo. The turbo has a little bit of play, and I thought maybe if the head gasket looked alright, that maybe I should turn my attention to the turbo?

I was planning on buying a turbo rebuild kit in the near future...

Any suggestions, help, recommendations are greatly appreciated. I work all week from sun up to sun down so I won't be able to pull apart the car till Friday maybe, but it will be sitting in the parking lot.

Thanks

 

[dude4253]

Have you checked the compression?
I would recommend that before tearing it apart

 

[MoreliaSpilota]

Have you checked the compression?
I would recommend that before tearing it apart

Yeah I forgot to mention this. I just have to find one of my friends with an air compressor to use the tool I have with it...

 

[TheAmazingDave]

checking your compression shouldn't involve an air compressor. You need a compression check gauge that will come with a hose that screws into the spark plug hole. The gauge attaches to the hose, and measures how much pressure each cylinder makes on the compression stroke.

You need to test on a warm engine for best results, all spark plugs out, and throttle wide open while you crank with the starter. Let the engine spin a few times before checking the compression reading on the gauge. Then note the pressure, reset the gauge, and screw it into the next cylinder. Repeat.

Edit: just realized you may be referring to a leak-down test, in which case disregard what I just posted... *blush*

 

[MoreliaSpilota]

checking your compression shouldn't involve an air compressor. You need a compression check gauge that will come with a hose that screws into the spark plug hole. The gauge attaches to the hose, and measures how much pressure each cylinder makes on the compression stroke.

You need to test on a warm engine for best results, all spark plugs out, and throttle wide open while you crank with the starter. Let the engine spin a few times before checking the compression reading on the gauge. Then note the pressure, reset the gauge, and screw it into the next cylinder. Repeat.

Edit: just realized you may be referring to a leak-down test, in which case disregard what I just posted... *blush*

I'm really awful at being too vague on forums, so I apologize, yes, I meant a leak-down test. But thanks for the post... I've never personally done a compression test or leak-down test myself. This is all somewhat new to me unfortunately, but... it's a learning process *shrug*

-Rachel

 

[MoreliaSpilota]

If anyone in Gainesville area has any free time on Saturday or Sunday and can help a fellow supra member out and come by, I would GREATLY appreciate it.... I can make some cookies or something? *shrug*

-Rachel

 

[radiod]

Check it with the leakdown tester, check for coolant in the oil. If you crack your oil drain plug you will actually get coolant first if any has made it's way in to their because the coolant/water is heavier than oil. The oil will sit on top kind of like a slick on water type deal. If you want to just do a full oil change, you can empty your drained oil in to a milk jug or something, let it settle, and you will DETINITELY see if there is coolant in your oil. And of course there is the ever so famous milkshake consistency oil.

Pop open your rad cap (when it's cool of course) and see if you've got any rainbow oil swirls in the coolant. Pop open your coolant resevoir and do the same.

Check for excessive milkiness/goo under your oil cap. You can get some moisture buildup in there due to condensation in the crankcase, but if you clean it out after a good hot run, run it again, and find it coming back, that's not a good sign.

Pull your spark plugs, see if they're sparkly clean. Steam/hot coolant will tend to break up carbon deposits and make everything cleaner.

 

[7mgte1988]

Wow i just sold my stock turbo and boost controller to a guy wit an Mr2 for 80bucks.. Is your car overheating or are having to put coolant or water in the car frequently if so the compession test is a good tool..

 

[MoreliaSpilota]

Definitely not over heating. Not even slightly over heating.

 

[MoreliaSpilota]

Check it with the leakdown tester, check for coolant in the oil. If you crack your oil drain plug you will actually get coolant first if any has made it's way in to their because the coolant/water is heavier than oil. The oil will sit on top kind of like a slick on water type deal. If you want to just do a full oil change, you can empty your drained oil in to a milk jug or something, let it settle, and you will DETINITELY see if there is coolant in your oil. And of course there is the ever so famous milkshake consistency oil.

Pop open your rad cap (when it's cool of course) and see if you've got any rainbow oil swirls in the coolant. Pop open your coolant resevoir and do the same.

Check for excessive milkiness/goo under your oil cap. You can get some moisture buildup in there due to condensation in the crankcase, but if you clean it out after a good hot run, run it again, and find it coming back, that's not a good sign.

Pull your spark plugs, see if they're sparkly clean. Steam/hot coolant will tend to break up carbon deposits and make everything cleaner.

Thank you... I'll check into this tonight and see if I can find anything.

I also want to note, under my turbo I've got a pretty significant amount of oil... and the car is smoking a lot. I ran it again and didn't smell any coolant, just oil.

I feel like this MIGHT just be the turbo, obviously I'm going to check with a leak down and compression test... but my turbo definitely is pulling in oil and definitely has play in it. *sigh*

 

[radiod]

The main oil feed/return attaches to the bottom of the turbo, two hardlines on one flange. You can try giving that a couple turns. There is a gasket in there that you can replace if necessary, but it's a pain to get to, I ended up pulling my turbo to do it cause I got tired of fighting underneath.

Still a good idea to check the other stuff, always better to be safe than sorry . Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

 

[MoreliaSpilota]

ok checked a few quick things, more to come tomorrow.
No signs of coolant on the dipstick thus far
No build up around the oil fill cap
Car was low on coolant, filled the radiator
Reservoir had brown buildup but ive seen that on other cars with good gaskets.
No loss of power
Only visible sign of leak is under the turbo, starting at the line in the center of the turbo going downward. Everything below this tube is caked in oil and either water (rain) or coolant. Again, turbo shaft does have mild play.

 

[MoreliaSpilota]

bump

 

[7mgte1988]

The only thing on that side of the car that will do that in that location is the turbo oil cooling lines the good thing u only need one gasket tha bad thing is its a bitch to replace....

 

[mkIIIman089]

That brown shit is a pretty serious cause for concern.

 

[toyotanos]

^^ Agreed, that stuff looks terrible. I would think there is corrosion occuring at the block, it looks like rust buildup. Bad coolant can do very bad things and still *look* good. Green coolant is especially bad in this respect.

 

[mkIIIman089]

Not to mention it looks like it's been puking fluid out - judging by the muddy rust colored spatter on the chassis in that picture.

 

[MoreliaSpilota]

pulled the spark plugs and they all look good... added more coolant and the car seems to "heat up" pretty slow according to the gauge.

I've noticed now, to get it to smoke, I have to really get on the boost and or be driving at a consistent 50+ miles an hour for 4+ miles.

When I'm idling, the car will drop an octave it sounds. It will do a deep grumble, smoke, then go back to a normal idle sound. There's no knocking or pinging. Just re-wired the knock sensors so the idle is definitely smoother.

Smoke is a grey color. It SMELLS like a clutch or tire smell but the smoke is coming from the downpipe for sure.

There was brown "crap" in the reservoir for the coolant but the person before me mixed coolants and from what I've read it will make that poopy brown color. The system is going to be flushed once I can get to a hose.

No buildup around the oil cap.

No coolant on the dipstick.

Oil is going to be changed tomorrow and I will check for coolant at the bottom.

The turbo has mild play, and I'm either going to buy another turbo, or buy a rebuild kit and do it myself.

I'm concerned about the deep grumble (lasts maybe 3-4 seconds?) and then it idles normal.

 

[supraguy@aol]

Flush your cooling system thoroughly and get rid of that brown crud in it! Also, that cooling reservoir can be removed by pulling it straight up, and off its mount(watch your fingers though). Blast it out with a hose to get rid of all the crap in it while you're cleaning the whole system. I also say that it wouldn't hurt to pull off the valve covers, and make sure your head bolts haven't backed out a bit, particularly on the exhaust side of the motor. Back when I had a BHG, I had the same brown crud in my coolant, but no coolant in the oil either.

 

[89supra7mgte]

This might have been answered but correct me if i am wrong will a cooling system psi test also very a blown head gasket given it is coolant to cylinder or to oil?