installing my Apex-i right now, and i want to know the best way to splice my wires into my ECU harness. I can think of a couple of ways to do it but 1 method wouldn't be all that secure, and the other would require me to cut the wire, solder on a new piece of wire WITH the proper S-AFC wire and shrink wrap it....which i want to avoid because i hate hacking up my wiring harness.
best way to splice ECU
- Thread starter derK
- Start date
Avoid IDCs (Insulation Displacement Connectors) like the plague. These include T taps and scotch locks. If the wire sees any vibration they tend to chew through it over time.
There are only two real reliable methods:
1) Strip a bit of insulation, solder and heat shrink (If you're good you can do it without even cutting the wire
)
2) Cut and use crimps
There are only two real reliable methods:
1) Strip a bit of insulation, solder and heat shrink (If you're good you can do it without even cutting the wire
)2) Cut and use crimps
Also if you choose to go the solder route. Make sure you clean the connection with isopropyl alcohol or other flux removing agent. Many people forget that flux is a corrosive element so it needs to be removed to ensure a reliable connection.
for now i just stripped a section off the wiring harness. I stripped a healthy length off the apex-i harness. I then "opened" up the wire on the engine harness so it resembled an oval shape. I slipped the end of the apex-i harness through that oval and wrapped it around the engine harness. I think this way is the best because i maintained the original wiring harness integrity and i got a good solid connection. I couldn't solder it though because it started to rain. That will be tomorrows project.
The 'best' way is to buy a fields harness and wire everything into that, so that you don't have to cut the original harness in any way.
Failing that, there are two accepted methods, and lots of debate over which one is better.
1. Cut the harness, slide on heat shrink tubing, solder the three ends back together, slide the heat shrink over the connection and shrink.
2. Strip a bit of insulation off without cutting the wire, solder, wrap with electrical tape, and zap strap the tape end.
Realistically, either will probably work fine.
Failing that, there are two accepted methods, and lots of debate over which one is better.
1. Cut the harness, slide on heat shrink tubing, solder the three ends back together, slide the heat shrink over the connection and shrink.
2. Strip a bit of insulation off without cutting the wire, solder, wrap with electrical tape, and zap strap the tape end.
Realistically, either will probably work fine.
fields harness is fine, just on the bulky side.
get a nice pair of strippers and you can just peel back the insulation from a section. the method you use for connecting the wire is fine.
use good quality electrical tape! the cheap stuff peels over time.
here is the wire stripper i use.
get a nice pair of strippers and you can just peel back the insulation from a section. the method you use for connecting the wire is fine.
use good quality electrical tape! the cheap stuff peels over time.
here is the wire stripper i use.
I'm not a fan a soldering, for many reasons, my personal fav way when splicing something in and i used this for my set-up is cut the harness where you need to, strip both ends.. put a male style fitting on one side and a femae on the other side, and then get a 3 way connector on the device you're tapping in (it has a fitting for a female and male slot). this way if you ever want/need to remove it the male and female fromt he harness fit together with no problems. you can pick them up at most auto stores (napa, autozone etc)
these are the wire strippers i have. they work great. grab the wire you want, squeeze the handle, and it will separate the insulation from the wire and push it aside, leaving a nice stripped piece of wire with insulation on both sides just like this:
=====----===== (with the thin part being the copper wire)
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Wire_Stripper_Automatic.jpg
i love it, and it's only like $15 at lowes or home depot. then i use brush on electric tape (carefully, as if it gets on anything and dries, you won't get it off- use several coats!)
-shaeff
=====----===== (with the thin part being the copper wire
)http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Wire_Stripper_Automatic.jpg
i love it, and it's only like $15 at lowes or home depot. then i use brush on electric tape (carefully, as if it gets on anything and dries, you won't get it off- use several coats!)
-shaeff
It sounds like your method for joining the connection will require more solder than nescsary to make a strong electrical connection, be careful of added resistance from the joint.
shaeff said:these are the wire strippers i have. they work great. grab the wire you want, squeeze the handle, and it will separate the insulation from the wire and push it aside, leaving a nice stripped piece of wire with insulation on both sides just like this:
=====----===== (with the thin part being the copper wire
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Wire_Stripper_Automatic.jpg
i love it, and it's only like $15 at lowes or home depot. then i use brush on electric tape (carefully, as if it gets on anything and dries, you won't get it off- use several coats!)
-shaeff
Pretty much how I dot it these days. Although I usually pull the pins from the harness and slide some heatshrink tubing down over the union... provides strain relief.
blackout_89t said:
Huh, how so? Doesn't require any more solder than soldering two wires butt to butt. As for the added resistance.... stop, you're killing me.
I like self vulcanizing rubber tape. Stuff never comes apart once its wrapped.
http://www.doityourself.com/invt/8316879
http://www.doityourself.com/invt/8316879
blackout_89t said:
origionally i had thought the same thing, but upon practicing on scraps of wire before delving into my wiring harness, i feel that i use no more solder than is absolutely necessary. all my joints are nice and shiny, and show each strand of wire through the solder.
i ran an ohm meter from end to end on the spliced scrap wires i used, and the resistances never changed a bit. i tend to be careful about stuff like this, especially when working in such close proximity to the ECU.
also, the brush on tape is great because it obviously won't peel off, doesn't get sticky when hot like normal electric tape, won't slide around, unravel, etc...
i suppose i should have stated that in my first post.
-shaeff
CRE said:
Yeah, I see it was mentioned, but I couldn't find any negative comments about it, unless you mean the possible hazards of bad solder connections or not cleaning the flux off (which I didn't know could be a problem).
Naturally, clean connections are crucial to the longevity wiring. While flux/rosin is caustic it's temperature reactive. If you miss a little you're fine, but as a practice try to get as much as possible off. You'll never get it all off, as the wire begins to heat and the flux softens it's drawn into the wire further and faster than the solder.
If you're asking about something else please elaborate.
If you're asking about something else please elaborate.
Funny thing is when I when to solder school, all flux had to be removed, and wicking of the wire(where flux and solder was drawn up underneath the insulation) was a failure. It took a lot of time to get down how to not do that. And on aircraft equipment it is important to have the highest quality solder connections. Simple fact of the mattes is though that it is time prohibitive in a production environment to completely keep the wires from wicking. But I have gotten pretty good at keeping it to an absolute minimum though.
I'm not debating the validity of your suggestion. I agree completely. That's why I use solid solder and separate liquid flux... just wipe the wire with a small cloth damp with only enough to clean the area to be soldered. If the wire's wet, you've used too much.
Oh I wasn't trying to debate with you, just was pointing out that it is a real pain in the arse keeping the flux clean can be.
The only issue with heat shrink (tubing) is that you need a free end to slip it over the wire. For splices, that is not always possible especially if you are not cutting the wire as mentioned above.