Bad Turbo ??????????????
- Thread starter supraman508
- Start date
I was asking due to my engine had a bad knock so I just finished replacing the F@&#*$G bearings and it still F@&$*#G KNOCKS.So know I gota take the engine out and inspect the piston rods.
A bad turbo could cause rod knock through a loss of oil but that'd be unusual. Your problem sounds more self inflicted.
You're the guy that bought this car from a friend who had the car jacked up with the subframe down and the oil pan off.
You could check for axial and radial play by moving the compressor wheel around. If it seems excessisve then odds are the turbo is bad. Axial is in and out play, radial is left/right, or up/down play. There shouldn't be any axial play. Radial play should be very minimal.
Is there any way you can get this knock sound on vid and post it? When you replaced the bearings did you noticed if any of the crank journals where scored up really bad?
I remember once I swore I had a rock knock on time. I turned out that the crank pulley came loose and was wobbling on the crank snout. It also wore out the woodruff keyway a good bit. It sounded just like classic rod knock. Not to say that's your problem, but there are other things that can make a knocking sound.
You could check for axial and radial play by moving the compressor wheel around. If it seems excessisve then odds are the turbo is bad. Axial is in and out play, radial is left/right, or up/down play. There shouldn't be any axial play. Radial play should be very minimal.
Is there any way you can get this knock sound on vid and post it? When you replaced the bearings did you noticed if any of the crank journals where scored up really bad?
I remember once I swore I had a rock knock on time. I turned out that the crank pulley came loose and was wobbling on the crank snout. It also wore out the woodruff keyway a good bit. It sounded just like classic rod knock. Not to say that's your problem, but there are other things that can make a knocking sound.
Sure the clearince was right? Did you just replace the bearings or actually get the right ones? What about oil pump driveshaft? motor mounts? Does it smoke?
Suprapowaz!(2) I will check the areas u said to look over.it does smoke some down and behind the turbo as well.
If you're serious about diagnosing the problem, start here:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?20486-Rod-Knock-Diagnosis-and-FAQ
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?20486-Rod-Knock-Diagnosis-and-FAQ
I'm getting really PISSED.Forgive me but I'm FUCKING FRUSTRATED.I HAVE A VIDEO Of the knocking.give me a moment and ill broadcast the video OF THE KNOCKING FUCKING SOUND.I've compressed my patents since 2007 and now I'm exploding.please help sorry for any inconvience
So how did you rebuild the engine? Or did you just slap bearings in? What were the clearances?
There is the proper way of replacing engine bearings and then there is the hill billy way of replacing bearings.
There is the proper way of replacing engine bearings and then there is the hill billy way of replacing bearings.
I jacked the front end of the car and dropped the subframe and oilpan.replaced the bearings that way and afterwards it acts the same way.She has hardly any power even when I step on the gas it hardly goes.this is my first turbo and so wasn't sure if when the turbo goes bad that this was the symptom.but I have noticed that besides the bad knock when I step on the gas that water gets pushed into the I overflo.
---------- Post added at 11:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:05 AM ----------
I think its a blown head.
---------- Post added at 11:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:05 AM ----------
I think its a blown head.
supraman508;1714231 said:
Go back a few posts, and follow the link I posted. By replacing the bearings, you attempted to treat the symptom, not the problem.
supraman508;1714231 said:
That's the problem. You have a blown head gasket or a cracked block/head allowing compression into the water jacket. Moreover, the reason you likely had failed bearings was due to coolant contaminating the oil, also explained in the aforementioned link.
Put bluntly, the motor is toast and will need a rebuild. Running it with the issues you describe may have also damaged the turbo bearings.
I was reading up I'm the waste gate valve and it states " If turbocharged air pressure became too high.knocking occurs.Outcome reduction of engine output is caused".Next before asking any other questions I will read up some more.I'm thinking maybe bad wastegate.
Money is on bearings since you changed them the hill billy way and not properly.
Stock oem bearings are select fit and have about 7 different sizes. So if you put standard and it need to be oversized then you will still get knocking. Also if the crank was damaged from knocking then new bearings will not help.
IF your headgasket is blown. Replacing just the bearing isnt going to help either as if there is coolant in the oil you just ruined and wasted your time and money as water/coolant eats bearings.
Stock oem bearings are select fit and have about 7 different sizes. So if you put standard and it need to be oversized then you will still get knocking. Also if the crank was damaged from knocking then new bearings will not help.
IF your headgasket is blown. Replacing just the bearing isnt going to help either as if there is coolant in the oil you just ruined and wasted your time and money as water/coolant eats bearings.
Damit.I remember my friend who gave me the car said " if I was u I would go onto eBay and turbo it".I was thinking after he said that to myself,the car already has a TURBO.I must of been to excited to read Between the lines then.He might of been hinting to me that the turbo is F@*#&D !!!!
supraman508;1714490 said:
Don't confuse spark knock (detonation) with rod knock (worn out bearings) - they are not the same thing. The knock that is referring to is detonation. You can read about that here. Detonation on a turbo car is catastrophic and easily results in broken pistons, ringlands, rings, blown headgaskets, cracked heads, broken spark plugs and broken valves. It is caused by running too lean (not enough fuel) for the boost level, too hot of an intake charge, having overly advanced ignition timing, too low of an octane of fuel or hot spots in the combustion chamber. While it's possible that is what caused your blown head gasket, you've got much bigger problems at this point.
hvyman;1714491 said:
I'd agree. The Toyota M-Series engines have high volume, low pressure oiling systems and very tight tolerances.
hvyman;1714491 said:
From what he's described I suspect he's got acid etched bearings, rods and crank. There is likely other damage as well (scored cams, etc..), not to mention the entire oiling system is likely contaminated by both coolant and bits of metal from everything that was ground up inside of it. The motor is going to need a lot of work.
hvyman;1714491 said:
Correct, that's why I referred him to that link earlier, it explains that as well.
Simply put, at this point that engine needs to be pulled, torn down, inspected, machined (if the damage is repairable), hot tanked and rebuilt. Or a used/new engine needs to be installed. Put a fork in this one, it's done.