Auto Tranny cooler Questions

[JDMMA70]

I could figure out if this was more appropriate here on in the transmission subforum. Well this does have to do with lubrication. Im picking up another auto soon and i plan on shimming the accumulators while its out, changing the strainer too. Also i plan on installing a cooler for it. I was looking at the B&M 7.5"x11"x.75" cooler. Is that sufficient enough to keep things cool. I was looking at that one specifically as i can mount it in front of the intercooler withouth and and be able to run some rubber hose to it. My other question is Since the Cooler has 3/4" inlet and outlet and the stock tranny lines arent that big (i dont think?) Can i use a reducer from 3/4" to the stock line size? Or would it be better to run all new lines from the transmission. If so any suggestions? As accessing the transmission cooler lines are a bit of a pain. Also plan on putting Redline Dexron II ATF in it, friend is getting it for me ( i know im getting a lot of free junk lately).

Second Opinion Welcome
Thanks for reading
~JDMMA70

 

[IJ.]

Good idea to get a Landcruiser deep pan and screen for it, the cooler rule for the Trans is the bigger the better, don't stress too much on the fitting size as the Cooler circuit is only a bypass so any restriction you get from the step down/up fittings won't affect the Trans operation.

 

[JDMMA70]

That was a fast reply, thanks Ian! Im assuming by Pan you mean auto tranny pan? and Oil strainer screen you mean like one off a say a 1992 Landcruiser? And would mounting the cooler in front of the Intercooler be alright? I figured it would be best as its right in the path of airflow through my bumper.

Thanks

 

[gennro]

Yeah just make sure you still have the lines routed to the radiator then to the cooler then back to the transmission and not just going to the cooler itself. Having it hooked to the radiator helps get the transmission up to operating temp a lot faster so it will endure a lot less wear and tear.

 

[jdub]

Yeah just make sure you still have the lines routed to the radiator then to the cooler then back to the transmission and not just going to the cooler itself. Having it hooked to the radiator helps get the transmission up to operating temp a lot faster so it will endure a lot less wear and tear.

Do this and you'll transfer heat to the tranny fluid across the operating range. I've found the tranny performs the best with 170-180 deg F ops temp - coolant reaches 190-200 degs in a system performing properly. If you use the radiator cooler, guess which way the heat will transfer

IMO, using the B&M cooler by itself is the way to go. The primary enemies of any hydraulic system (like an auto tranny) is heat. It's far better to have the fluid on the cooler side vs the opposite.

 

[IJ.]

x2 on ditching the stock cooler circuit in the Rad, I WOULDN'T put it in front of the IC though as it will affect performance/tune through elevated IAT's, you want the IC to get first bite at the Cool/fresh air.

 

[JDMMA70]

Ok so any suggestions on where to mount the cooler. Pics would be helpful as well.

Thanks
~JDMMA70

 

[IJ.]

Just ran mine between the ac and rad.

 

[JDMMA70]

Well if it worked for it should work for anyone. Quick random question is there a way to tell if a A304E came off a 7MGTE or a 7MGE. Im looking at two transmission, no one knows what motor they came off of. Ive heard they are different and want to make sure if that is true that i get a A304E off a turbo supra.

 

[jdub]

Only way I know of is to take it apart and take a look at the clutch brakes. The GTE has an extra disc/plate in the 1st, forward and overdrive assemblies iirc.

 

[JDMMA70]

Ok so mounting it in front of the IC is not a good idea but what about behind it? It should still providing enough cooling to the Trans Cooler right? Im looking at the stock lines as well, they look to be 3/8" hose? I figure ill just run the same size to and from the cooler.

 

[IJ.]

Yep that would work ok, you just need to think about what will be generating the most to least heat then stack the coolers according to that, stock lines will be 10mm so 3/8th will work with a little stretch if using rubber and be a touch loose in the fittings if using hardline.

 

[JDMMA70]

One last question and ill be done, as far as ATF goes i was planning on using Redline Dexron II ATF, but with a sufficient cooler, will regular Castrol MIV (Multi Import Vehicle) ATF work as well? Im just trying to keep temps down and make this other transmission i have just aquired last. I will be racing it at the track TX2K11, and it will see some street use. Will Synthetic ATF do a better job helping regulate temps along with the cooler. Or will regular ATF and the cooler be just fine?

Thanks

 

[IJ.]

I used Toyota Type4 and had great results, sorry don't know about anything else.

 

[jdub]

I use Castrol Dex III Import (a semi-synthetic). I tried Amsoil universal synthetic, but got some slippage in 1-2 gears...I have no experience with the Red Line version. The Type IV IJ mentioned above is a synthetic and is excellent.

Keep in mind that heat and debris are the tranny's main enemies. The cooler you are using will go a long way in preventing ATF breakdown. I would also add a filter to the cooler circuit - I use a Trasko by-pass filter on a std filter head for this purpose, but a standard oil filter will do fine - just make sure it has a high flow rating.

A start-up whine can be several things (blocked filter/screen is one) not allowing fluid flow--any other blockage will do the same thing. Otherwise, take a look at the pump.

 

[IJ.]

Ditto on Coolers and an external Filter JD

 

[fstlane88]

Some pics of how I have mine done. It's mounted with a 1/4" thick bracket from the top of cooler, to the top portion of rad/core support there, then bolted at the bottom to the lower portion of the core support.

Obviously it's behind the IC in front of the rad, and I'm still using the a clutch fan so I figured it couldn't hurt having it mounted more towards the passenger side of the car to take advantage of the air the fan is pulling through. One note, I don't have A/C on the car anymore at all so there is much more room to work with there because of the lack of condenser. But I would think you could still put a decent sized cooler in there even with it in place.

Sorry for the crappy pics, I only have a 3G iphone..:icon_bigg

 

[1jzcressida]

Do this and you'll transfer heat to the tranny fluid across the operating range. I've found the tranny performs the best with 170-180 deg F ops temp - coolant reaches 190-200 degs in a system performing properly. If you use the radiator cooler, guess which way the heat will transfer

IMO, using the B&M cooler by itself is the way to go. The primary enemies of any hydraulic system (like an auto tranny) is heat. It's far better to have the fluid on the cooler side vs the opposite.

the radiator does cool the transmission fluid, engine operating temp might reach as high as 190-200 under heavy load, but the coolant exiting the radiator is far less then that, more like 150-160F as it leaves the bottom of the radiator, so how I have it tied in is the exit of the tranny cooler portion of the radiator enters a seperate mounted 6x9 4 pass air 2 air cooler which further cools the fluid then exits and returns to the transmission

 

[jdub]

the radiator does cool the transmission fluid, engine operating temp might reach as high as 190-200 under heavy load, but the coolant exiting the radiator is far less then that, more like 150-160F as it leaves the bottom of the radiator, so how I have it tied in is the exit of the tranny cooler portion of the radiator enters a seperate mounted 6x9 4 pass air 2 air cooler which further cools the fluid then exits and returns to the transmission

Exit temps can easily reach 190-200 deg F - it's going to depend on radiator thermal capacity and OAT. On a stock rad, there's no question - with a dual core, the increased capacity can drop coolant exit temps to 160 degs at peak efficiency. Then the question becomes, do you want to add additional heat to the coolant before it enters the motor? On the 7M and JZ motors, I think not. An air cooler alone is the way to go for the A340E - routing is simple and it's efficient. There is zero reason to route through the radiator using an air cooler too.

 

[Supra0089]

I know this is like months after the fact, but, I've mounted mine under the driver headlight. See pics. You just have to route one of the lines through the metal in the fender...not really a big deal.

Mine is a B&M 10x10 with an eletric fan that comes one at 180F